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Mr_Clean

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About Mr_Clean

  • Birthday 06/18/1970

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Stock 1995 SE, Auto Trans
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    40-45
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I was going to try and get it done in a couple weeks, but with a few things that have come up and my October hunting trip, it's looking like November before I'll be able to dedicate a full weekend to the project. I think I might shoot for Veterans Day weekend to give myself an extra day to get it done. I'll order all the parts this weekend though. Regarding the tie rods and ball joints for a basically street only vehicle (maybe some light trails a couple times a year): Moog vs Raybestos service? I'm sure Moog or Raybestos Professional Grade would be much better, but it looks like $40 vs $140 for just the tie rods. I was planning on going with Moog (I have some 90 degree zirks to swap in), but it looks like I could save over $200 if I go with Raybestos Servcie Grade. Just wanted to get your opinions since it's not going to be off road much. -Scott
  2. I did a little looking around to try to find which axle would be the best, but with just about every brand it seems that someone has a nightmare story to tell. Looks like most, if not all, aftermarket axles are made in China, and most remans seem to grind the axle down and use oversized bearings. I would love to go with new OEM axles but it looks like those are over $500 an axle! I can change a lot of cheap ones for that price, and that makes a lifetime warranty at a local brick and mortar store sound much better than RockAuto. Raxle.com seems to have really good reviews (looks like they only use OEM shafts and new, high quality parts). I might give them a call and see if they have anything for the Pathy, but I'd expect them to be at least x2 the price of the Cardone's at Rock Auto.
  3. Yeah, I'm definitely going to change the lowers. Might put it off until a 3 day weekend though. The kit comes with some of their Formula 5 grease and I'm ordering extra, so I'll grease them up pretty good. The Axles I'm ordering are on RockAuto. A-1 Cardone and they don't say reman and there's no core charge so I'm cautiously optimistic they're new. Back when I worked in an auto parts store (way back in the 80's...) A-1 Cardone put out some pretty good parts... I'm hoping they still do, but it has to be better than DuraCrap from Autozone...
  4. Thanks James! The hole saw is a great idea! I printed out the FA section of the FSM (it's all ready to get greasy!) The bushings I was going to order are the Energy Suspension bushings. The LCA bushings that come in the kit appear to be a split bushing with no metal sleeve. as opposed to these Is there anything I need to be aware of in going with the ES bushings? Shoot me a message when you're ready to do the cups and I'll be happy to weld them in for you!
  5. Yeah, I do appreciate the CA weather for rust prevention... so far there doesn't seem to be much, if any, rust on the Pathy. I have read the threads on welding up bearing races and washers to replace the tension rod bushing cups on the frame, and there's not much more I love than pulling out the mig box and making smoke! In fact, I may pick up some steel and try my hand at fab-ing up that idler arm brace. Doesn't look like there's too much to it, and I enjoy trying to take the "built not bought" approach when I can. For the crowfoot, 1/2" or 3/8" drive? Basically, do I need to get the attitude adjusting breaker bar out, or is it just an awkward place to get into requiring the crowfoot? I think I can find 3/8" locally, but may have to order a 1/2" drive. Thanks for the tips! -Scott
  6. I'm getting ready to do a full front end rebuild in a couple weeks. Most of the parts appear pretty well shot and it handles pretty sloppy so I'm going to rip it all out and rebuild. I want to make sure I get everything done I should while I'm in there, so any suggestions are appreciated. Here's my parts list: Tie Rods Axles Ball Joints Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings Strut Rod Bushings Shocks Sway Bar Bushings and End Links Center Link I will also be cleaning, inspecting, replacing, and repacking the wheel bearings as needed. Anything I'm missing? Any special tools I'll need to pick up or make? I've read many of the threads here and understand the LCA bushings will probably be the biggest PITA in this job, but I have a torch, time, and beer so I'm going to give it a go. Thanks! -Scott
  7. Looks like they make caliper repair kits (autozone.com). I've never done a Pathfinder Caliper, but I have rebuilt several GM calipers. Just basically a square cut o-ring that goes into the caliper housing, and a dust boot. Pretty easy to rebuild. Usually the kits are $5 to $10 a piece and you really should do both sides at the same time.
  8. Mine would click intermittently as well. It would probably act up about every 4th or 5th start. I did the relay mod and it hasn’t missed a beat yet (2 months now). I went to my local pick-n-pull JY and cut the connectors out of another Pathfinder so I could install the relay mod without cutting into my factory harness.
  9. Batteries can go bad and still show a good charge. Once you put them under a load, the voltage drops... I have a buddy that this very thing just happened to last week. He even took his battery to Autozone, they tested it and said it was good. I lent him a spare DieHard I have in my garage and it fires up every time.
  10. It was the gear that spun, but it's all back together and running fine again. At least now I know what all is going on in there... timing parts and water pump looked good, probably could have gone another 50K, but you never know when buying a used vehicle when the PO says "I don't know when it was changed" Thanks for all the help! -Scott
  11. i've been wondering that same thing (what causes something like this to happen)...
  12. I went with option 1. Fill weld, file it down smooth, and file out the key slot. Fits with no play now! Looks like crap, but fits tight. WHEW!
  13. I just post my photos on photobucket and put a link in my post.
  14. Well I'm changing my timing belt today and the saying "something will always come up" holds true... pull off the crank gear to replace the seal and the slot that the wooddruff key goes in is blown out on one side... Any suggestions? I'm thinking either replace the seal and tack weld the key in and just plan on a new crank if I have to tear back in, or fill weld in the chip, and file it down as best I can... neither seem like a great option, but replacing the crank at this time isn't an option either... additionally, I found this sensor that is disconnected on the front of the drivers side head. Any idea what it is? Thanks, -Scott
  15. Well just to be clear... The Pathfinder is mine... but it will be available for him to drive. I fully intend to take it out playing myself, but I need him to be able to take himself to school, work, and run errands for me so the 2nd vehicle was necessary!
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