wankerschnitzel

The level looks good. It doesn't smell or look burnt or anything. I check the T-case as well, for the heck of it. I'm going to check my +12 mains, and grounds tonight after I pull codes. I am wondering it there is problem in communication between the computer, engine, and transmission due to a connection problem. I had a crank angle sensor going bad on me a while back. When the weather was hot it would die sometimes while running. When I pulled the codes I got one for the sensor (CPK?) and one from the transmission, complaining it didn't know the vehicle's speed. So I assume they talk while driving, and I wonder if there was no power to some park/neutral sensor. Purely speculation. Maybe I can a flow chart for the computer and sensors. It's just seems bizarre that this happened at the same time. I suppose it could be separate things, and just a big coincidence...I will update if I discover anything further.

I have a '87 2 door pathy in a state of disrepair as well. It has almost 300,000 mi on the original drivetrain, but it wasn't without it's problems here and there for sure. That's actually how I found this forum a few years ago, was getting the old girl back on the road.

It has been running great for quite a while, but something happened this morning that totally threw me. I left it parked at a weird angle in 4low last night, as my driveway is in a state of (dis)repair. I started it up and noticed the clock and stereo (factory Bose) were not working at all. The Bose sometimes forgets the presets, so I thought maybe it finally died, or I blew a fuse. All other electrics were working fine. So I backed out of the driveway, and got turned around. Select to -N-(Trans) to put it back to 2wd and here's where things got weird: Stopped in Neutral(Trans) at idle, foot on brake, in 4low. The headlights dim and there is this sound. Reminiscent of when brakes begin to go metal to metal, or the bearings in your alternator are seizing. A crunchy graveling ,SCHKWAHWAHWAHW, not super loud. It seems like it's bogging the motor a bit at idle also. No CEL. I put it in park, and no change. Ok, so I decide to take it out of 4wd via the normal -N- , shift case, reverse method. Ok, no problem I am stopped in reverse and in 2wd. No noises, lights are nice and bright. What the heck? So then as I move the selector towards drive I find it does it's weird thing in -N- and Park. But shift to any gear, and it's totally normal. It goes forward and backward fine, no noies, bright lights. So I'm thinking my tranny or torque converter is going south on me. I turn it off, and scratch my head for a while, and decide to try and pin point the source of the noise. It gets weirder. It starts right up, clock is on and set, stereo is on all presets are there, and everything is fine. No more noise or any of that. It runs like a champ, as if it never happened. Still no CEL. After work today, I will see if I can pull any OBD2 codes, and have a thumb through the repair manual. I haven't been able to replicate it after 5 tries. Thought I'd throw this out there, and see if you have any thoughts/pointers. Thanks, all. 2003 SE 3.5 V6 Auto trans 146k mi. Edit: Turns out we have a Nissan shop manual in PDF stickied right under my nose. Thanks Precise1. AT-91 Transmission noise in P and N positions. ON vehicle 1. Fluid level AT-61 2. Line pressure test AT-64 3. Accelerator pedal position sensor (throttle position sensor) AT-182 4. Vehicle speed sensor·A/T (Revolution sensor) and vehicle speed sensor·MTR AT-117, 200 I got some homework to do. Edit: Well here's something I should consider. From a Benz forum, of all places: Edit:Learned how to link. Q:When I start the car, it sounds like the starter is still engaged but when I shift it to Reverse or Drive, it runs fine. When I move the shift from Reverse to Drive, I can hear the grinding noise when it's jumps through Neutral. When I stop and put the car in Park, it again make the grinding noise. Is it possible that the starter engages when it's in Neutral or Park but disengages when it's in all the other gears? "it could actually be the starter if it were stuck on since it would cut in only when the tranny is in neutral or park. Might be worth disconnecting it while running (safely of course) just to rule it out as a possibility... " "this problem for me actually ended up being a problem with my ignition and my key. The key didn't retract all the way after turning the ignition to start. I'm glad I fixed it before trashing my starter." Link If my starter was engaging, it could explain the dimming, the bogging, and the nasty noise in N and P. I will check to see if my clock and stereo go dark while turning over (CONFIRMED). I was parked with wheel all the way to one side, and had to do the steering wheel jiggle to get the key to turn. SOLVED Final Edit: That's what it was/is. It had nothing to do with the 4WD, or stereo. There was enough tension in the steering column lock, or ignition switch itself to stay just at the start position. Especially if you turn the key sort quick and confident. I was able to duplicate it twice by parking in the same goofy way. I feel a bit like a Dodo. I was about to break out the test meters and get down to some serious over-thinking. I will leave you with this, as a token of my ineptitude: The wankerschnitzel Manuever: (applies to left hand drive R50) Imagine you are driving straight down a semi-steep incline in 4low 1st, (safety belts now friends), now decide to veer about 45deg to the right. Now you will stop with a bowling ball hight stone under the right rear tire so it lifts the highest point of the ass end up. Now crank the wheel all the way to the left and hold it there while you put it in park and turn that sweet machine off. Step out and admire your work. You are now finished with the maneuver.

This is probably a silly question but, from 4x4parts: 1990-2004 Hardbody, Pathfinder, Frontier, Xterra with 3.0 or 3.3 liter engines I have a 2003 with the 3.5 liter engine. From Warn's site: Pickup '84-86.5 I 26 29087 29061 Pickup, Pathfinder '86.5-89 I 27 28739 29061 Pickup, 4 cylinder '90-93 I 27 28739 29061 Pickup (incl. Frontier), 4 cyl '94-01 I 28 29091 29061 Pickup (incl. Frontier), Pathfinder, 6 cyl '90-01 I 28 29091 29061 Xterra '00 I 28 29091 29061 What are my options for hubs? If this has been covered in the forums, and I missed it, I apologize for it.

So I'm happily driving along today, cruising at about 40mph, apx 1,500 RPM with a full tank of fuel and the AC blasting (101F). The motor dies without any warning. Like someone flipped a switch to off. I pop it from drive to N and coast to a shoulder and park. I turn it off for a bit, then try to start. It turns over fine, but just sputters. I wait about 20 min, fires right up. I high tail it home, and it's running sort of off. Missing a bit at low RPM, and knocking a little on acceleration. Take it home, cool it off, starts up and revs tip-top fine for a few, then problems come back upon warming. No check engine light, however the Haynes states it will not light up unless in it logs an error twice in memory, (other than knock sensors or something) I pull the OBD2 codes with diagnostic mode via blinky engine light technique, 3 times in case I screwed it up (it happens): P0725 = Engine Speed Sensor Input Circuit Malfunction P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit (blinks this code twice in a row) P0462 = Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input I borrow El-Cheapo OBD2 'pocket reader' It says, "3 codes", then lists the above, without having any doubles (?). So I am wondering a few things here. 1: So it turns out, this motor has 2 crank position sensors. One in the front down by the oil pan that reads from the crank pulley [REF], and one in the rear down around the bell housing that reads from the fly-wheel [POS]. So, did I get the alarm twice because the OBD doesn't know which one is failing, or might there be another problem to make the ECC(?) think that both are bad? Or just to tell me to change them both (generic code)? Anyone have this experience or similar? 2: The engine speed sensor alarm sort makes sense, as it has to do with how the computer talks to the transmission and motor, and when it died it could have been upset that the transmission was turning while the motor was not. Purely speculation, of course. 3: The Fuel level sensor alarm? I've never had any fuel delivery problems or gauge problems. Do you think it could be just an arbitrary relationship to the incident today? I mean, the motor died instantly while in motion, maybe there was a moment where it didn't know it was off and threw the code? Or should I do some replacing? (Kind of stretching ye olde budget already) Any ideas and/or troubleshooting advice is very welcome.