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Lemay

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About Lemay

  • Birthday 09/18/1990

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Too many mod and truck for listing ;) 2002 SE-SC Xterra (Summer DD, Tow & rock crawling beast) 2001.5 Infiniti QX4, (Da leather winter DD truck) 1998 E-Superduty extended van, 7.3 powerstroke, dually, 4.10 gear (THE tow rig lol) 1995 SE-V6 Pathfinder (part truck) 1995 SE-V6 pathfinder (summer DD) 1994 SE-V6 pathfinder (trail rig, SL, BL, 35' tire header and too many mod) 1988 XE-V6 Pathfinder (yeah, maybe the last one in life in quebec?) lol
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quebec, Canada
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    chemistry, paints, polymers, offroad, camping, truck electronics and a passion for Range Rover trucks

Lemay's Achievements

NPORA Regular

NPORA Regular (2/5)

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Reputation

  1. I would test the battery first, a load test or what I prefer if you have the time is to get the battery fully charged. Let it rest 5-7 day and check voltage. If it's dropping the bat. is not holding it's charge. If it's hold the charge I would reinstall it in the truck but not driving it for few days. Check the voltage and you will find if you have a battery drain on the truck. some years ago I got 2 bad battery in a row at Canadian tire, so bad battery even if it's new can append!
  2. I reaaaaaally like the way the cover bolt to the R50 diff. I got an idea... For testing purpose you can fill the bolt holes for the cover with NAPA 2K urethane adhesive, this is oil and solvents resistant and very good adhesion to metal, so perfect for filling void (or repair fuel tank and fuel line.. lol)
  3. buy a brand new from NAPA they are lifetime warranty and no core charge. I've done this for the starter of my E-superduty 7.3 Powerstroke (it's a turbo diesel with a mechanical fuel pump) i burned 3 brand new starter and they never ask a question lol.... priming can be a pain on those truck and the starter suffer a lot of this. If I bought a (first quality) remanufactured starter from NAPA and I don't give the core (because I want to rebuilt it) they charge more than a new starter who don't have a core charge... and a lifetime warranty... so it's a no brainer!! and.... no I don't sell my good starters lol
  4. Interesting... even the breather seem to be in the same spot! I've still not tested the Wd21 shaft in the wd22 diff, noting have been according to plant in my new house (electrical nightmare), but I'm in progress lol. I've built a tall table to work the diff side by side last weekend, but still need to change the distrib. this weekend in my wd21 before I can take my trailer to get my diff who is in my part truck at a storage area lol. I stay tune for your developments and I like the way you go! The tube welded are to the casing....right?
  5. X 2!! We want pic or video!!! Is this a hornblasters kit? I want so much a train horn on my Nissan's and my E-Superduty
  6. When you step in for path in -22*C and colder your start the truck and the factory CD player start right on.... and in your most newer car (2004 mazda 6) impossible to get the stock CD player read CD in -8*C... lol
  7. Hi I'm an Xterra 2002 SE-SC owner for about 6 years now and... I love it! Reliable as hell and great for towing if you add leaf in the rear suspension. I've been hard on it a lot of time on rock trail and when I tow +8500lbs on looooong travel and it never fail on me. Trans still shift like a new one, but I have a big ass cooler on the trans + the stock cooler. The 2x4 VS 4x4 thing is only you don't have to change oil in the front diff/t-case because.... the 2X4 don't have one lol, all other thing is the same. Same maintenance basically. Little concern that I've seen on mine: - drip oil from the valve cover gasket (Ok my truck has seen more than 20 000km's of hi-rev towing, O/D off, more than 8500lbs in the back, engine rev at 3500-4000 et 110-120 km/h, so I can say my VG33ER work pretty hard in the summer) - Rear leaf has broken, my answer is a custom leaf pack who is 4 heavy-duty leaf + the load leaf at each corner in the back. It's now ride like it got no suspension in the rear and I love it, not ideal if you don't tow lol. Only that, all other thing was basic maintenance like oil, t-belt, brake, and an exhaust last summer, the fist one was on the truck for 13 year.
  8. I've did this and I will repeat that on every truck that I have. With your manual hub, just drop your front diff, weld it and then install it in your truck. it's been on my VG33ER wd22 for years, with 305R70R17 (34') and with a lot of rock crawling trail, never broke the diff or anything. The R200A is sturdy as hell, and my friend with his wd22 welded REAR diff, it's funny as hell to run it on the street. Parking is somewhat noisy too lol
  9. put back on the road my 95' blue path after 1 month and a half of work in the heated garage. I've put the path in the garage for a fuel leak and it degenerate in a complete little resto/ rust buffing on the body to keep it good until in 1 or 2 year I strip the paint (with paint stripper) and redo a complete re-spray with my marine & protective stuff (international paint) Repair the tire carrier who didn't close properly because the liner of the body bracket was bad and then give a lot of play at the lock.... the answer is.... tie-wrap!! those little things are life saver, the tire carrier is now closing properly and no more ''open tire carrier'' light on the dash. replacing a seized front caliper For info, a driver side carpet from a wd22 is nearly identical as a front driver carper of a wd21! just make the hole bigger for the bolt of the seat. Even the little hole for the little bracket who keep factory pathfinder stitched carpet (I don't know how to call it) from slipping under your feet line up! I thought that I have spare carpet of wd21 already out of the truck but no, that was from a wd22... and with the moving, no time to lose to get the carpet from my part truck at my friend house lol. So another WD21 saved!!
  10. If you don't have access to an heated garage, yeah it can be tricky lol The epoxy at napa is not a fast curing epoxy so it sucks pretty bad, if you got fast curing epoxy it's way better but keep it mind that epoxy are way harder than an urethane (there are some formulation exception of course) who can lead to cracking on impact and loss of adhesion. Adam: lol for the screw.... this is exactly what did the PO on one of the front fender, and this is give a rusted-as-hell-look-but-I-try-to-hide-it If you got 1 or 2 in working unit that you want to sell I'm a buyer! On the blue 95' -Still sanding rust spot lol -in the heated garage for more than a week, nearly totally dry in the truck now, I'm pretty sure that my windshield or sunroof let water go in the truck - I've rimed a winter tire and.... forgot to have the tire balanced damn.... that i'm stupid lol
  11. Now I know what your pathy look like! Great looking truck for an 1990, my 1995 safari green use to be like yours, black front fender lol just for info, my dad buy a brand new 1990 path in 1990, in 2001 the truck got complete paint job, new rear quarter where welded in place... ect... so yours with 25 years is not that bad! LOL If you look for a cheap and efficient method of patching hole and if you don't care too much the look, patch it with sheet metal and glue it with fast curing urethane 2K from napa (not the epoxy one who take 1 million years to react) You can go either speed ( i think 3 or 4 curing speed is available) I chose the 1-3 min working time who is the second fastest, so you got 1-3 min after the mix to apply the urethane and apply pressure. 1 hour total adhesion time... the faster one give you 30-60 sec. of working time, who is great sometimes.. but can be a bitch on humid day... when the NCO in the urethane react with water like hell and you got 30 sec. or less of working time!! LOL Pm me if you want pic or more info! On my 1995 sapphire blue: -Begging to remove body rust with the buffer (with a cutter disc). I have no mercy, corrosion have to go! - front seat are removed, the leather stitch are broken so I will repair them -complete Inspection of the floor -Begging to clean the hole in the driver floor, rust is bad in that spot -Ditch the driver side front carped in the trash, completely wet, just too disgusting to save that, I will take one from part truck -Complete sanitation of the truck, i bought the truck but I didn't drive it very much, needed work before putting a lot of km in it - WORKING FACTORY CD!!! Yeah I'm so in heaven right now! lol, got speaker working too! It was the Upper unit that was faulty not the cd unit -Interior door panel dismantled and cleaned to hell lol - Repair the latch of the tire carrier.. and few other thing!
  12. hooo never think to remove them for cleaning!.... I just remove them lol. You just made me realize that I will not let my blue one exit my heated garage before all the paint chip and little spot are painted... my little blue path want to be as clean as yours!!! hahaha maybe it's will be hard to understand for others but here in quebec, find a truck/car as clean as the one Pav own, that got 20+ years and drive the winter is a next to impossible job...
  13. Got booth valve cover gasket replaced on my Xterra 2002 VG33ER at Nissan and a used NISMO exhaust (complete with the y-pipe with a little less that 2 year of use) from a Frontier short box. The tail pipe is right where is has to be, I was fearing that the exhaust would be a little too long. Took them 3.5 Hours for the valve cover gasket (2.5 hours theoretical in fast) and 1.5 Hours of exhaust fitting from the cat. and welding custom hangers with the removal and reinstall the skidrow complete skid plate.... witch is not that bad! Next step is the installation of DT headers Finding the source of the mega fuel lost on my 1995 Safire blue WD21, was stunned to see on the top of the fuel tank, the metal line that fuel exit to get in the rubber line completely broke off.... this is why I hate to get primed 2-3 sec. before starting to get it started the first time.... With less than 1/4 of inch of metal left, just take to bare metal everything on that area, connect the hose as best as I can and then fill the whole area with 2part urethane adhesive/filling agent for metal body panel repair. Work awesome, resist solvents, no more leak and this is the method I used 2 year ago on my trailer queen! Even the ground who was rip off of the tank is repaired that way
  14. hahaha!! Yeah You are right. I will not make a debate... but damn that people (and students) here can be dump. The only thing is great here is the north where it is full of no-man-lands (I'm from chibougamaux lol), you can drive 12h in one direction and not getting to the border who is a awesome thing, no mandatory safety inspection/smog (I REALLLLLLY love that lol) and cheap insurance. Cops are stupid and the new rule for lifted 4x4 is bad to the point that the the rallye ''jeppy'' here in Victoriaville is for stock truck if you don't want your truck being put in ''no drivable condition'' and get tow on the scene by the SQ.... what a mess.... maybe a government a little bit too communist?
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