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Methfinder

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About Methfinder

  • Birthday 04/21/1987

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    31" treadwright tires. 3" custom lift (coil rear, Ori Struts front w/ external reservoirs), 4" sub-frame drop
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1999.5

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://jensenbrosoffroad.com/
  • Yahoo
    kjbigslim@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Utah
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Anything out-doors, anything with wheels, anything with an engine, water sports, board sports, anything that gives me an adreneline rush

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  1. No worries, a little more work is all, and ever since deciding to go with the heavier material, I decided those stock roofrack channels wouldn't be strong enough. The bolts going through the roof are relatively large, and should be pretty strong in comparison to those tiny 6mm bolts.
  2. So something to be aware of when deciding to bolt your roofrack directly to the roof instead of using the tiny 6mm machine cap screws. There are unwelded nuts as anchor points that will fall off into the roof liner when you remove the stock rack isolation pads, so doing this job requires removing the roof liner to get to those nuts. Also those isolation, or mounting pads, are formed to the holes into the roof, and are the only thing keeping water out. I plan on re-using these mounting pads, so I will bolt my brackets directly to them, possibly with longer bolts.
  3. I only weld galvanized outside, even then, I hold my breath. Nasty stuff. Grinding a couple inches off with a sand flapper helps tremendously. My welds on this stuff using my 140 Lincoln are actually pretty good, nice and smooth. Not too much popping, I just don't have a good power supply in my garage, I keep popping breakers. Yes, the stock rails are coming off. I'm bolting directly to the mounting pads on the roof.
  4. This should do the trick. Puts the weight right where I want it. I'll have six of these that I can bolt into the stock rail attachment points.
  5. Haven't decided yet. I have a finger brake on my hydraulic press, so I'll probably bend some 1/4" sheet metal brackets and use the stock mounting locations for the roof rails. I made the bottom rail for the rack sit directly over the stock roof rails so that whatever mounts I use will place the weight directly down onto the stock mounting locations. Open for ideas for the mounts though. Not a whole lot of info out there on this.
  6. Went ahead and redrew my frame using 1-1/4" schedule 40, 1.40" wall pipe, Should be plenty strong, and I can tie it in with an exoskeleton if I so choose. I set up the drawing so it would be easy to make changes in the tube/pipe size, and also change any dimensions such as bend radius, height, width, etc. Now the whole thing is set up to be bent with my 5.5" radius die on the new bender.
  7. One crappy job and about a year later, I might actually get to continue this project. The 1" conduit main hoop for my roof rack is still decorating the wall on the side of my garage, but I'm changing the game up a bit and ditching the home depot bender. I invested some time and money into a new JD2 model 32 bender, bought a 1.75" 5.5 centerline radius die, converted it over to air over hydraulic controls, and built a cool little stand for it. Not too shabby. This machine is intended for light production work within my personal business, so the pathfinder project is still for practice. For the pathfinder projects, I'll now be using 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe, which is 1.660 inch O.D., a 1.380 inch I.D., and a 0.140 inch wall thickness. It crushes slightly more than 1.75" DOM, but at $12 for 10 feet, it will have to do. I did a test bend with it, and it looked great! I'll be using this material to build the rack and front/rear bumpers for now.
  8. Dually noted on the gas fumes. I've welded this stuff together quite a bit actually, and I either do it outside or turn on a fan and point it outside, or hold my breath The floor of the roof rack will also have a bunch more cross bracing, just haven't decided whether I want to use small diameter round bar, or steel mesh. The reason for the dumbed down drawing is that I can easily change the sketch above to any size I want, since I also plan on making a roof rack for a RZR that will be a lot smaller.
  9. Did you use pipe or tube? What size? I'm doing a few projects with a 1" conduit bender and 1" emt. It's hard enough to bend regular 1" emt, I imagine rigid 1" would be a nightmare with a manual bender? You might know better than me. What bender are you using? I also have the JD2 model 32 with a 1.75"- 5.5" center line radius die for bending heavy duty DOM tubing. I'll be doing a bumper with 1-1/4" rigid tube on the JD2 to practice bending before wasting money on expensive DOM tubing. I might follow my fenders with the expensive stuff, connecting them to rock sliders, that I have to make first.
  10. So I have the design all made up for my custom roof rack on my 2000 R50 Nissan Pathfinder. It's going to be 6 feet long by 40 inches wide, about 5-6 inches tall, and have a 60 degree wind brake, or a light bar on the front. This is a super cheap project that I'm doing to practice bending tube, well pipe in this case. I'm using the same techniques that I would be using to build a bumper or a full cage, making bend gauges and basing my project off of actual blueprints. Even though I'm using cheap materials, I figure they're suitable for a roof rack, and this is just a practice project after all. I'll post pictures as I go along, or you can follow my unfinished blog if you want: http://captain4x4builds.weebly.com/ If it turns out looking good, I might even sell it, so let me know if you're interested. I don't actually need it, so if I want your money more than my roof rack, you may be able to persuade me What I'm using: -1" conduit bender from Home Depot with a 7" centerline radius -1" regular (not rigid) emt conduit -140 amp Lincoln mig welder with flux core (no gas) -Grinder with grinder wheel and cut-off wheel -Compact Harbor Freight Bender (for flat bar mounting brackets) -Black Automotive Enamel or wrinkle black spray paint -A drill and a sanding wheel. Let me know what you guys think.
  11. If your mounting holes are accurate, I would like to take this design and tube it out using inventor and autocad. That leads me to ask, is this file something I can open in autocad? If nothing else, having some accurate dimensions would help if you care to share I finally decided, after tearing both bumpers off multiple times, that I need metal bumpers.
  12. So I understand the bleeding procedure, which in my mind would be RR, LR, RF, LF, so that you are starting farthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer, but the factory manual I downloaded says LR, RR, LF, RF.
  13. ORI Strut's external reservoirs rock! Plus they look awsome.

    1. Karmann
    2. Methfinder

      Methfinder

      haha 3 years later... These are reservoirs I put on my pathfinder suspension

  14. You guys want to hear horror stories? I'm full of them. Funny, because this is also related to brakes, at least part of it. So I pack up a bunch of stuff to make the drive between Rexburg Idaho and Salt lake City for the weekend, including a gas can, since I usually end up needing it driving through no mans land. It was some holiday, I forget which one. I get about an hour and a half south of Rexburg, and I start smelling something burning. My first suspicions were either oil leaking onto my manifold or my brakes, except this was strong, and it was getting worse fast. I start playing with my vents because I thought that's where it was coming from, but it didn't seem to be coming from my vents. By this time I'm somewhat close to the next exit, and my eyes are starting to water, then I peek into my rearview mirror and see smoke bellowing out from behind my back seat. The exit was about an 1/8th of a mile ahead so I start hauling ass so I can pull off and check my truck before it explodes. I'm doing about 90 entering the off ramp and try to slow down, just to find out I had zero brakes (this was my first affair with my E-Brake and down shifting). I pull off, run behind the truck and start throwing my stuff out the back as fast as I can, including the partially melted gas can. I wait a minute for the smoke to clear and start investigating. My carpet was all melted, right in the middle. My Ice scraper was melted/stuck to the floor. I thought my brakes caught on fire, but they seemed to be in good shape. I got under the truck and saw that my muffler had broken in half right where it curves over the rear axle, so I had hot exhaust gas shooting out the broken tail pipe, aimed directly at the cargo area floor. It got so hot that it burned the undercoating off the bottom of the truck and made my carpet boil. It was close enough to the hard brake line running along the axle that it melted the rubber coating off of it, and I'm guessing, boiled my brake fluid which temporarily left me without brakes. I desperatley needed to fix this before getting back on the interstate, but it was a holiday, and everthing was closed. I ended up digging through some HVAC companies scrap bin to find a piece of sheet metal I could cut and bend into an exaust tip that pointed down towards the road. I secured it with a hose clamp and continued on my way.
  15. get the O-Reilly's cardone re-man. It's a genuine nissan part rebuilt by Cardone. $90 is the best you're going to find. Unless that Rock Auto part is the same one. Still, O Reilly's is way faster.
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