Honeybadger

Looks like I'll just try bending the bugger a bit. I'm guessing it was bent in a bit at some other point in the truck's life

Got my 31x10.5's installed, and my left front tire is rubbing the front of the fender at full lock to the right. It BARELY rubs, so should I just hammer it out, or is it likely my T-bars needing to be adjusted? For clarification, full lock to the left, the right tire doesn't rub in the same spot.

Looks like goodyear doesn't make the duratracs in 33x10.5, so I had to go with a 31x10.5.

I'm not planning on doing any crawling, so will the t-bars be enough for adjustment? I went with goodyear duratracs, they had the highest snow rating possible for what I wanted.

sounds like more trouble than it's worth. I called the tire store and had them re-order 33x10.5's I shouldn't need to fiddle with my suspension in that case, correct? The point of the truck is a "do all" machine, not a wheeling rig. I just like being able to get myself in and out of anywhere I feel like I need to, while having civil road manners, a decent stereo, etc, so changing the body or cutting/hammering in the footwells is more than I want to do.

so any tips for preventing the rub? Where will it likely be rubbing?

old pathfinder lifter tick is just down to old, sticky lifters. BMW's have similar issues. If they tick, they're just not happy, you're low on oil, they're getting older and more sticky, or it's their time of the month, is all. Mine always ticks loudly on a cold start for 4-5 seconds, and then just disappears. never been a problem.

electric components cleaner is your friend. If possible, fill a swimming pool with the stuff and give your truck another up-to-the-windows dip.

I don't have the stock wheels, they're some american racing garbage, but as far as I know, the offset is the same and the wheel width is the same, and they're also 15's. I'm currently running 235/75's and would like to go up to a 33, of which the tire people ordered a 33 12.50. I want to make sure that I'm getting a tire that will a.) be able to fit, and b.) what modifications I need to make in order to do so. I'm guessing the fender flares need to come off, but can it be done with the stock suspension and no body lift? Picture of the truck for reference

Se because I have sport suspension that STILL WORKS.

3 jaw puller got that tie rod end off nicely. And Dennis was a massive help as well. took us about twelve hours (bad things kept cropping up) and lots of beer. Next up, timing belt! Also, where can I get an idler arm brace?

I'm pretty sure mine sat for so long it started rusting. There's some under the rear seats, some under the battery tray, and a lot forming everywhere else

I'll likely go the spreader route. I need a new tool set up here (full shop down in arizona,) and autozone junk is cheap and works for me. Can't afford new tie rod ends right now. God, I was hoping this thing would be as easy to work on as my 240sx's were. Nowhere close. Though that could be just because half the bolts I remove are literally snapping in half from corrosion. I can't do the "taps" at night, since I'm working in the street and don't want to piss off my neighbors, lol. Will give it some love smacks tomorrow with a deadblow.

Man, fast responses! I got all 4 bolts out, but the arm isn't separating. does the ball joint just slide out? the part that pokes through the arm a bit. Also, the castle nut is off, I cannot get that stupid threaded part out of the knuckle. can I just get a spreader and separate it? would that also work for the upper control arm? shock bolt is free, caliper is completely detached. Doing the new calipers, rotors, pads, and axles all at once. timing belt and water pump next week. I'm pretty sure in the next year or so I'm going to be replacing every bit of rubber suspension bushing. And what is a pickle fork? Silverton, you're only like 30 minutes away (greenlake) you should come help, heh. would have been nice to have a person switching between 2h and 4h so I could rotate the front driveshaft and get at those damn axle bolts.

'ello people, '94 se-v6 4wd owner here with basically no mods other than wheels, chunkier all terrain tires, and a bullbar. the goal is to make it into a perfect all-purpose truck able to tow, carry people, be comfortable, be reliable, and off road a bit. But it's a rusty and crusty old bitch. 108k miles, a recently broken odometer, quite a bit of rust starting to form, and I doubt it's ever had a service outside of oil changes. It probably sat for five years. And I paid waaaaay too much for it. Go figure. First things: brake pads and rotors. Low and behold, the calipers are seized in the front. So, remanufactured ones are going in. CV boots are well and truly 'sploded. new axles are in my living room. Brembo rotors and EBC pads front and rear. pulled the battery, wire wheeled off all the rust and used rustoleum's rust converter. welded in a new point for the battery tie down. I'm in the process of yanking the old axles. I got all the 12 point nuts off, but cannot figure out how the hell I'm going to get the knuckle off. Do I need a puller? I hate only being able to work on my truck in the middle of the night. Makes parts runs impossible. What parts of the suspension need to come loose from the knuckle? and in which ways? do I need to take the top swingarm off by the balljoint, or can I remove the four bolts around the balljoint and separate it there? Mostly, I'm just asking because I don't want to break anything thinking that it's just corroded, when in fact it's welded and weakened, lol. please help, been at it for two hours and I'm dead stuck. And I have a whole other wheel to do this to >_< I've tried following the DIY's, but when it says "Detach tie rod end" I have no idea HOW to do it without damaging something, and I don't have a puller until I can go to the store tomorrow.