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rustyole88pathy

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About rustyole88pathy

  • Birthday 10/28/1985

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '88 2-door, auto, approx 250k miles, Cragar wheels, BFG 31"s, Pro Comp shocks, external tranny cooler, and lots of body work to fight the rust.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    1988

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Firefighting, the outdoors, fishin'/shootin' & anything on 4 wheels that has a motor

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  1. 250k -- Auto tranny -- never been rebuilt, but about 10k miles back I installed an aftermarket tranny cooler for added protection...
  2. Old thread...I know: But these RC's look awesome. http://cgi.ebay.com/Kyosho-1-9-Pathfinder-...ksid=p1638.m122 shame it's over 400 bucks, or I'd get one!
  3. Yep...I was there cheering at the TV also. For those who did not see today's episode, have no fear...they simply stated that there would be a project Pathfinder this season. They did not start any work. From the one second shot of the Pathfinder, it appeared to be a WD21 4-door. I'll keep my eye on their website for when the episode appears on Spike (new episode every Sat which is also replayed on Sun). Can't wait!!
  4. Since my catalytic-converter is shot (has been for a while...makes a loud hissing noise) and just because I enjoy buying presents for my Pathfinder, I am considering doing a full exhaust replacement. Plans were for Thorley headers, 2.25" pipe, high-flow cat, and Flowmaster 50 series muffler. When I went and did some "research" on headers, some concerns/questions arose. 1) When I search on summit racing, it indicates that DTE-464-1 is needed for an 86-89 while DTE-464-2 are needed for 90-95 models. I understand that the -1 is a long tube version...but this is due to a difference in transmission pans location/size? (I'm just curious...) 2) dmag23's thread (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15027&hl=headers) worries me a little bit. Should it? Should I plan on have a similar problem with the exhaust tube proximity to the steering shaft flex plate? (BTW I do not have a body lift, nor do I plan on adding one in the near future) 3) Main concern: Broken exhaust studs. My Pathy does suffer from the classic ticking noise at startup (continues after warm-up but is quieter), which is at my best guess a sign of a broken exhaust stud(s). I may be wrong there, but either way it appears that people frequently snap bolts when trying to remove the stock exhaust manifolds. This seems like a real PITA, and makes me think of two alternatives. Instead of doing the install myself, I could take my Pathfinder to a shop...make it their problem...or I could not install headers at all. Which brings me to my final question, 4) Installing headers worth it? What's the typical power increase due to headers? (estimate...obviously) People sound like they are really happy with their Thorleys and so part of me doesn't want to miss out, while the other part of me doesn't want the headache (maybe just do high-flow cat, 2.25" pipe, and flowmaster muffler). Any thoughts, comments, etc are greatly appreciated! Thanks, Rusty
  5. Try this: (nickel chrome) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku (ceramic) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
  6. First, welcome to the forums. Second, please conduct some of your own research by using the SEARCH feature. Yes, I know it can be pain (isn't the best search function I've ever used), but you will eventually find some VERY good information. In terms of upgrades, it really depends on what your looking for and in what condition your Pathfinder is currently in. Transmission swaps seem to be done regularly, and there are definately a few on this forum which have also done engine swaps and serious engine work on their VG30's. Lifts vary, of course, from your 2-3in body lifts to 3" +/- suspension lifts. Kits are available from AC (4x4parts.com), Calmini, and Rough Country. Using Jeep Grand Cherokee coils in the rear is also a (cheaper) alternative. Those are all pretty simple to install, and to go more then a combined 6" total lift (3" body and 3" suspension) requires serious work (i.e. SAS swap with custom fab work). Again, do a search and you will find detailed information on things I just mentioned.
  7. Just to throw it out there...I ordered Rough Country UCA's straight from them this past summer (July possibly? the months all blur together these days...). At first I got a little reluctance, but when I persisted the guy said it was no problem. Dunno, probably just dumb-luck as too who you get on the phone...
  8. sounds kinda like my Pathy when I first bought it as well...Now a grand or so later (due mostly to the lift) and she's turned into something I am really attached too... Therefore, I say fix it. The majority of the work you can do yourself without spending a lot $$$. The rust stuff is really no big deal. All you need is a few sheets of steel from a local hardware store, a grinder, and a welder. Problem solved! If the tranny quits on you (not that I am saying it will), that will of course be a bigger problem...but you could probably get your hands on a Pathy 5spd for a couple hundred bucks. Like redfinder said...change the tranny fluid...and also add an external tranny cooler, and you will hopefully extend the life of your transmission.
  9. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2324607 for more pics...it is truly an amazing rig...
  10. Our trucks don't have coils in the front, but rather torsion bars. Do a search for "torsion bars" or "t-bars" and plenty of stuff should come up. If you crawl under your Pathy you'll see a steel rod either side of the vehicle up front...those are the torsion bars. "Cranking" them simply means turning an adjuster bolt under there which will increase the tension/spring rate within the steel rod...hence lifting up the front end. There is a good thread which discusses this whole issue in detail. Search "T-bar crank" and it'll come up. hope that helps.
  11. I voted for Suspension/steering problems. Reasons: 1) I can deal with a lack of power. Yes it would be fun to have 300+ hp under the hood...but when it comes down to it, our 145 (or there-abouts) does just fine. 2) Engines seem to run forever...no prob there....same with drivetrain... 3) Auto tranny's seem to be on the weak side, but I'm pushing 250k on the original so that's much better then most vehicles 4) They do rust like hell...but mine has lived in Pennsylvania all it's life and the frame is still good, just the body that has rusted. And if you're not wanting your Pathy to win any car shows then you can just fix that yourself pretty easily and cheaply. Also I believe maintenance plays a big part in this...if people would just wash/wax/etc their cars more often we'd be much better off! 5) I would like more aftermarket parts...but that's not a problem with the WD21's so to speak, but more reflective on the industry. Technicality I guess... 6) Two doors do rock. But the "rarity" of the 2-door just makes owning one that much better... So, having said all of that it seems to me that the only inherent problem is the IFS and weak steering components. Yes, if you don't offroad your Pathy...you won't care one bit...but for those who do, SAS is a no brainer. I would also like to add that LSD should have been stock on all Pathfinders. I don't have it on mine, and that's the biggest problem I encounter. You need LSD before you need a better suspension setup... But overall...since I bought my Pathy, I have come to love it and worship all WD21's. They're pretty awesome!
  12. Just FYI guys...that difference in paint that you are seeing was done by ME, painting over the bondo. I tried to fade it into the existing paintwork...and failed miserably. As for a huge bass...i highly doubt it...an old timer was the previous/original owner. My thoughts were that MAYBE there was a joint at that location originally from the factory, and Nissan had thrown some body filler on it. Then overtime, offroading it etc placed stress in that area causing a small crack that just got bigger and bigger. If that is not a possibilty...then yes I agree it smells like previous damage and repair Oh well...I guess I'll just fiberglass it (and try to forget about it)...
  13. Hey guys...so I've had a 4 inch +/- crack in the body of my Pathy since I bought it...It starts at the corner of the passenger side rear window and heads towards the rear of the vehicle (see pic below). At first I just left it alone, but then an ugly rust stain began appearing below the crack and I said enough is enough and this summer I went at it. To my surprise when I hit it with a grinder I was grinding a substantial amount of bondo. Previous owner swears of no accident/repair in that area...and I trust him. Because of the bondo, I could not weld...and even if I could, it's proximity to the window would have seriously worried me (heat and glass/plastic don't mix!) I didn't have too many options for the repair, so I just filled in the crack to the best of my ability with bondo and painted over it. I had a feeling that the fix wouldn't last long...and over the last couple weeks it has cracked again, as well as bulging out the bondo I put in. All in all I'm glad my other body work has turned out 100x better then this attempt! But she's not a show truck...so oh well... Anyway...a buddy of mine told me he saw a 2-door at a jobsite he was working at with a crack in the same location. Is this a common issue then? I think for my next attempt I'll use fiberglass...which I hope will have the strength to resist cracking unlike bondo. Sound like a good plan? Any comments/suggestions are welcome... Thanks! Caution LARGE pic! (yes she's a little dirty...and yes she could flex more if I had a bigger ramp...and yes I do have a NPORA sticker on her now...so I don't want to hear it!) lol
  14. I voted for SAS WD21. As yozsi mentioned, yes there are kits already out there...but I believe superior products at competitive prices can still be offered in this area for our trucks. And for me, SAS is the way to go when wheelin... In any rate, I will be interested to see what you come up with...cus my truck needs a lot more lift and improved offroad capability to embarass all those jeeps out there!!!
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