spotfitz

I might be interested in the body lift kit depending on brand, price and if you are willing to ship.

Holy grail, I know. I am looking for a decent set of front arm rests preferably grey. '95 WD21. I am also looking for front flares for the same in decent un~cracked condition. Flaps not required but will purchase as well. Also looking for tow package hitch, but this would need to be local DFW Texas.

Well, after a week of not blowing the fuse I can state I found the problem and fixed it without running new wires. I was going to jump one of the relays with a power wire and a fuse to see if without the blowing fuse connected it would still get power to the gauge cluster(find the relay that powers the cluster). Come to find out that not one single relay under the hood actually turns the cluster on. The wire coming from the blowing fuse actually does turn on 2 relays under the hood along with the cluster. I pulled every relay from under the hood and with the blowing fuse in place, I wasn't blowing the fuse and the cluster worked! I cleaned all the connections for all the relays and put everything back together and I haven't blown that fuse in a week. Problem solved. To bad I didn't tink of this sooner. I may be picking up an '87 4wd 5pd 2dr w/ 170k in acouple days. This one won't be left stock! I'm thinking SAS with 3" suspension and 3" body lifts w/ 33"!

If I could get lucky enough for it to do what it did one day and just keep blowing the fuse when I switch ignition to "on" I could test that theory. With it being intermittent like it is, I have no way of testing it. I have tried switching relays around with the other relays in hope of it being a bad/worn relay with no such luck. Just yesterday I had a volt meter plugged into the back of the fuse box on the wire lead with the problem, just to see if there was a spike in the voltage before it blew and there wasn't one. I was driving for awhile like this on nice smooth roads and not turning either which way, then suddenly the fuse blew. I stopped and replaced the fuse with it running to check for a spike again and it blew the fuse instantly with no spike that I could register(damn digital greenlee volt meter). I put another fuse in and I've now logged 20 miles on that same fuse. I'll be running the test wire to bypass the "bad" wire today, just to make sure it isn't actually the ground wire side of the relays in this circuit. If all is well I'll hide this wire up underneath the dash and go from there. If all isn't well I'll track the ground wire to where it goes. I was suppose to be receiving the wiring diagram from a site member here, but apparently they forgot. I should be able to finally get my FSM off the server where I previously worked today. Apparently the lucky bastards had Monday and Tuesday off this week. This is sad. I always thought the idea for having a relay was to limit the power used to turn an item on through a switch while still providing all possible power to the component being turned on.

After some trouble shooting I have found that this "meters" fuse doesn't go directly to the cluster, but goes to 2 different relays under the hood. The wire clicks on the "Accessories" and "check relay" relays. So, it is safe to assume that this wire IS shorting out on something somewhere between the fuse box and these relays and that I can only find by removing the dash and stripping the harness down to nothing but wires and find the bad spot/spots. I have thought of a work around to avoid doing that. Pull the wire out of the back of the fuse box and run a new wire to the relays after removing the other end of the bad wire. It will still work with the ignition switch and turn the relays on. Error in my thinking? I can't think of an easier way to fix this problem. Anyone? Anything?

Correct, since with the cluster out I still blow the fuse I'm assuming the multiple junction box you refer to is "Junction C" I know. It was a chance I took doing it. The more I go over it in my head the more it makes sense that it is a frayed/kinked/broken/fouled up wire from the fuse box to the cluster. It has to be. BTW, thanks for the PM help. [wink]

I was thinking the same thing and checked all that I could get to at the time. I guess I'll be pulling the dash to get to all the wires that I can't reach with the dash in. I may actually try to bypass the cluster power wire with another wire to see if it fixes my problem before I pull the dash. The first thing I did was have the alternator tested, which was fine. Eliminating all possibilites has been my way of tracking this problem down because of the randomness of it, which is why I disconnected the alternator and the cluster and still was blowing the same fuse. This leads me to believe it is an insulation problem on the cluster power wire. As stated, with this fuse blown I don't charge. This has me confused, unless it has to do with the charge light in the cluster being a part of the charge circuit. But with the fuse not blown and the cluster pulled I charge. As for the dimmer switch being the problem. As stated before, I blow this same fuse with the whole cluster removed, which includes the dimmer switch. But thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for the replies and I'll post my fix if I don't park it on some railroad tracks first. LOL It's sad. I've rewired my '74 260Z from the firewall forward with less trouble.

'92 Pathfinder 2WD 4DR, no electric anything(windows,locks,mirrors,etc.) I keep blowing the 10A fuse "meters" in ignition 2 bank(top right on fuse box). I have removed,unplugged the cluster and it will still pop(re: instrument voltage regulator). I have unhooked the alternator and it will still pop. I replaced all 3 Red fusible links with a Maxi fuse block(has nothing to do with this ploblem), but still have the main charging/power links(Black, Green) which isn't where my problem is. I have jumped these links with wire and it will still pop the fuse. I have checked the splice from the alternator power and it's still in great shape. I have replaced the ignition switch(electrical part). I have even tried putting a 15A and even a 20A in there. This was at a time in all disgust. 15A blew right away and 20A "slow burned" after some time driving. I've even joked about going even higher with the fuse just so I can find the problem. Whether that would be burning the harness or frying something else. Atleast I would no where to look! I can pop this same fuse before ignition(just switching to "on"), while driving on smooth roads, while driving on rough roads(either/both, if the fuse hasn't popped after switching to "on"). It is very intermittent which is why I am having a hard time finding the problem. I have pulled the fuse box down and out to get to "junction C" to inspect the wires/junction with no signs of bad/corroded terminals, burnt or cut wire insulation(see 15A & 20A above). I have checked and switched the 3 relays at the fuse box. I have checked and switched the accessories and ignition relays under the hood. My main problem with this blown fuse is not my fuel, temp and tach not working. It's I'm not charging! I'm on nothing but battery! I think it's a short somewhere, but I'm out of ideas. Sorry about the book, but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible. I know it's hard to diagnose an electrical problem via the Web. BTW, where did the FSM's go? I can find a "ask me for FSM help" post, but I thought I had downloaded the '92 FSM from this site.

Mine says "METERS" It's within the "ignition 2" circuit.

Fuse should be the top right 10amp(red)

-bounce-

Well, I'll try this, Wiring: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/spotfitz/det...re2.jpg&.src=ph and my '92 Pathy: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/spotfitz/det...re2.jpg&.src=ph

It's free to join. I wasn't trying to get anyone from here to join over there. Is there a place to put pics here? I hate imageshack, or what ever it's called.

While I am a new user here I thought this might be a good thing to post to this old thread. It might help someone. I hope it helps. Z cars are notorious for frying their headlight switches. These switches can cost big $ new. The last one I bought new ran me $185 plus shipping for my '74 260Z. They are getting harder to find and the price keeps going up on them. Relays for headlights, even in stock form are a necessity with these vehicles and can help most older vehicles as well. I went as far as to replace all existing wires from the fire wall forward, but used existing factory wires to control the relays for the headlights, running lights and turn signals for my 32 yr old Zcar. While it's not all taped up and wire loomed yet, at this stage it gives a better idea of what is going on with the wires. This is not a kit and I highly recommend the Maxi fuse block! Behind the fuse block is a ground branch for all the grounds to interlace. Here is a pic of what I have done: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?pho...500&ppuser=7958 and a pic of my new-to-me '92: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?pho...500&ppuser=7958 I'm doing alot of reading/research before I start any questions for my Pathy, but I am enjoying the professionalism of the site. Good job Admins!