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NWT87PATHY

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NWT87PATHY last won the day on September 10 2012

NWT87PATHY had the most liked content!

About NWT87PATHY

  • Birthday 01/27/1988

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Under Construction
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
  • Model
    SE Offroad
  • Year
    1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Inuvik, NWT
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    Pathfinders

NWT87PATHY's Achievements

NPORA Veteran

NPORA Veteran (3/5)

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  1. Sounds like it got GL5 fluid in the trans at some point and all the bushings are disintegrated. Metallics or chunks when the oil was dropped last? rebuild or replace is a for sure
  2. I've swaped many autos out for 5 speeds without any ECM issues so i doubt it matters to it.
  3. Welcome to the forum'. Thats a generic hardbody dual shock hoop, Pretty fancy! That finder looks to be in pretty good shape too. Good on yah for saving a "real" pathfinder!
  4. The pre heater hose has nothing to do with it, Watch your throttle body when its doing the rpm bounce, usually the cruse control is the culpret..
  5. Get a momentary switch and bypass the column.
  6. Your absolutely right!, ive spent so much time on www.LT1swap.com i'm cross eyed.. But anywho the diffrence between the earliest 4l60&80 and ls based trans castings is the top most right bell bolt has no thread hole on the block.. And the gen3&4 crank is like .200 shorter so the stock torque converter is to short and the hub isn't supported with it fully engaged into the pump. An easy fix with a place like Advanced adaptors around, I have a 89 Th400 on a 09 LH6 5.3. It required a dished flexplate with a "hub" extension ring to support the converter. For simplicity i allways recommend a Vacuum Modulated trans. 700r4 with a TV cable is ok for Gen3 with the cable throttle i suppose.. OD is really nice with 5.3's, but i just swaped out the 3.73's for 2.83's now im doing 100mph at about 2200 rpm in my 55. Advanced adaptors also have all the rigging to re do the input on any np205 to match what yah need.
  7. Well if you go with a 2000-2004 LT1 6.0/5.3/4.8 they are cable throttled, you can basically put any trans behind it you want. Depending if you want to do the swap your self or got deep pockets.. You need to be electricity experienced to do the swap. Its really simple... their is a pin out online that covers all gen 3 and 4 ecm's to make the factory engine harness standalone.. All post 89 trans missions are driverside drop tcases. So you can keep stock running gear if you wish. Would just have to get shafts made up.. Not that bad. As far as transmissions go any transmission made for a v8 chev will bolt up to the block. Need to be careful and have the right flex plate or the stock 4l60e or 4l80e what ever engine you choose will run standalone with the engine no problem.. But if you like grabbing gears you could opt to find a nv3500 a sm465 or a rock crusher. All really good tranny's for light application, they both accept np205 tboxes or what ever chain box you want..
  8. Yup maybe you have seized parts in the tb. Just take it apart and find out why your tb is not in the idle position
  9. Try unhooking or disabling it.. Fast Idle Control Device (FICD)- This device actuates a fast idle cam based on coolant temperature flowing thru it. The temperature at which the fast idle cam eases off can be set by the FICD Adjuster. The fast idle cam pushes on the fast idle lever and how much this lever adjusts the idle is controlled by the Fast Idle Screw. Fast Idle Screw- Head points skyward and is often mistaken for the normal Idle Screw. When the engine is cold the âfast Idle Camâ increases the idle for faster warm-up. This screw sets the fast idle speed which should be between 1,000-1,200 rpm set depending on how cold your climate is.
  10. Exactly. and the IAC is for the warm up and in the 80's it was a mercury thermo switch for kick down or in the fashion of a electric choke. My suggestion is to back all the screws off and get a base line idle then dial it in to smooth 6-700 rpm. TBI is basicly a carburetor that uses the O2,water temp and MAP to adjust it's own A/F ratio. Easy stuff compared to the 2bar speed density VE tables i tune LS1's with..lol
  11. Swap in a v8 and never look back!! Vortecs are cheap.. Small block's are cheaper.. My .02
  12. Ive seen chevy tbi's that were pouring gas in insted of a spray mixed with vac leak caused higher idel (
  13. I dont think timing can be a issue. The dizzy cant be adjusted as far as i know.. And if its off a tooth it wont run. Could be a botched timing belt job but it would be un driveable and you would have bent valves. I wonder if the idle set screw has been monkey'd with? If it shows signs of it start backing off the screws on the TB and trial and error untill you get a stable idle. Also a nasty vacuum leak could cause idle problems bit not WOT at start up...check if the hose on the back of the frying pan (filter housing) is hooked up and all the vac lines are in good shape. Electro port engines are pretty basic fuel/air operations like chevy TBI only so manythings to go wrong.. Generaly if its not a Air issue its a fuel problem.
  14. Unhook your cruise control cable,If its not the throttle body opening up letting more air in, you have a leaky injector dumping more fuel in.
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