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rydsno

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About rydsno

  • Birthday 11/24/1978

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathfinder XE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

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  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria, BC. Canada
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. Check your Load Sensing Valve, should be about halfway down the inside of the frame rail underneath. It has a bleeder, which could be leaking.
  2. My link Depending on the weight of the trailer and the tongue weight, you may not need the lift helpers. I got the cause i'm towing an older 15' camper trailer and I ripped my bump stops off while towing it last year. Too much sagging! The tongue weight is about 275 lbs, i think, and the trailer is 2280lbs. I also recommend a stabilizer hitch if you can. It also levels your truck and trailer and distributes the weight back to the front wheels. Also, the air lift only cost me $90 from 4x4parts.com, and I added a nice silicon filled guage for $25.
  3. Ok, I need to clarify. These are NOT installed to provide a LIFT like a lift kit would. The are a helper for when you need to carry extra weight. In my case, i'm loading an old camper trailer which has already cause my bump stops to get ripped off due to how low it was riding. (hence the bump stop install). Don't buy these if you already have a lift kit, or want a lift. They are for LEVELING. So when you have a load like heavy cargo or like how Precise1 or JamesRich want to load a motorcycle, you add air to the system and it will keep the pathfinder where it should sit, instead of riding like a slammed '64 impala at the back. In my stock springs, the bags fill up the entire spring from top to bottom. If someone installed them and they didn't fit, they either got the wrong bags, or have taller springs. I'll post some pics of mine in the springs, and my install when i'm done. I'll also post some pics of my trailer loaded without air, and then with the air. In the meantime, those who are still wondering, go check out this site. It's the best pathfinder build i've seen(and most detailed), for guys like myself who want a more capable towing set up or those who just want good info for their Pathfinder...... This is where i got the idea fr the bags, it was originally posted on the forum, but their website address has changed, so the forum link doesn't work. Project Nissan Pathfinder
  4. Welcome to the site! Lift looks good!
  5. Welcome! You first mod is soap and water!
  6. Ya, they go inside the springs. My springs seem to be in ok condition, so they should be fine. Here's a photo from the website: www.airliftcompany.com
  7. Here's the pressure gauge i'm putting in for the air lift. And here's the poly bump stops. Because the factory bump stops are installed on an angled bracket, I decided I should keep it that way. I assume they're like that for the direction of the axle travel. Anyways, because the new bump stops are wider than the factory angled bracket, I welded on some flat pieces of steel in order to keep them the same as factory. Also, the bump stop bolts snapped right off, so i'll be tapping in some new and larger bolts into the frame.
  8. I think you may have had some problems, I haven't loaded them up yet, but the ride is instantly different. My girlfriend drives the pathy daily, and as soon as I put them in, she said it felt like a bouncy school bus, lol. Probably cause I have them inflated pretty high right now (20psi). But as for the install, not too difficult. The hardest part is squeezing the air bags into the springs. You have to get the truck on jack stands (with the wheel removed), then lower the side of the axle you are working on as far as safely possible. You only get a couple inches of a gap to get the bags into the spring. Your hands will be cramped up after getting them in, lol. I ran and secured the both air lines under the truck up into the small access panel in the drivers rear cargo area. I tee'd the lines inside, then added a small piece of tubing with the schrader valve in it so I could test the system. They only require 5 to 35 psi to operate. I can inflate them with my small bike tire pump. I also went down to my local electro-mechanical shop and bought a 0-60psi silicone(liquid) filled gauge for $25, cause I don't want to have to check the pressure with my tire gauge all the time. I will be installing the gauge this week and doing a test with my camper trailer. I'll load it with no air, then i'll load it at different pressures and measure how much the truck drops. I'll post some pics of the setup and my results of the weight/drop. I'm also installing the poly bump stops, which has been interesting on its own. More to follow.....
  9. Just arrived today from 4x4parts.com! I got Air Lift coil spring helpers and 4" Polyurethane rear bump stops.
  10. Wow! Is that stock? My pathy looks like a lowrider compared to that! Well maybe not that much, but yours looks like an inch taller than mine. I have air lift coil spring helpers coming in the mail this week, put that pic makes me think my rear suspension is shot!
  11. No problem at all, I wasn't meaning to sound like a smart a$$ . I definitely appreciate you input, that's what i'm looking for. Even though I work with electrical stuff, a lot of people here have waaay more experience with pathfinders than I do. Sometimes there are little tricks that people have learned over the years that help out a lot. One idea is that this mod would be a lot more beneficial if you were running higher output lights, but mine are pretty close to stock wattage. I have silverstar lights as well. So, I dunno, i'm thinking of trying to find the clear lens headlights and running good bulbs instead. I read that the clear lenses with a good set of PIAA bulbs is awesome and as long as you don't oversize the bulbs, you don't have to upgrade the wires.
  12. Here's what i did...... (batt+) ---> (12g wire) ---> (25a fuse) ---> (50a relay) ----> (low beam). stock low beam wire --> relay relay --> ground I even tried......... (batt +) ---> (12g wire) -----> low beam lamp ground -----> (batt-) / (chassis-) The run of wire to the headlight was only about 30" long. In both scenarios, even direct from the batt to the lamp, it wasn't brighter. I tried using batt- and chassis ground, no difference. I'm quite familiar with electricity and electronics, i work on low voltage systems(fire alarms) for a living. I understand the concept of line loss and amp draw, etc. The only things i can come up with are a- crappy relays or b- crappy headlight sockets. I even went to the extent of removing the connectors from the headlight socket and soldering the 12 gauge wire right onto them. I find it strange that even direct from the battery, I get no increase. And i don't have any pics, cause i pulled everything back out:)
  13. OK, so i went down to the parts store today, got some relays, some 12 gauge wire, fuse holders and fuses. I spent about 4 hours messing around, making nice wiring harnesses, getting everything all set up. Ran 12 gauge wire right into the bulb sockets. Hooked them up, turned them on with great anticipation and excitement, aaaaannnnnndddddd.........not impressed. My stock wiring was brighter. Checked my grounds, checked my voltage. 12.20v to the stock lighting harness, 12.08v to the new, "heavy duty" 12 gauge harness. I even ran power direct from the battery to the headlight, and still not better. I'm pretty disappointed with the mod. I put it back to stock. Maybe someone can enlighten me, but i'm leaving them stock now. Just gonna buy nice fog/driving lights. Needless to say, i'm not recommending this mod....yet.
  14. I used to do quite a bit of detailing, and i definitely agree with 3M and Meguiars cleaning products. One thing i'd never recommend though, is armor all for anything. Especially your dash. Armor all is known for cracking dashes, attracting a crap load of dust, and drying things out. Also, unless you enjoy staring at the reflection of your dash in your windshield while you're driving, don't shine your dash, period. Dashes are meant to be flat finish, for that reason. Most people don't know that. Go to your local autobody supply and pick up some satin finish interior dressing. As far as cleaners go, simple green is your friend. Wheels, engine, interior, exterior, smell remover, everything. Biodegradable too. Methyl Hydrate (aka, gas line antifreeze) is the best tree sap remover around, won't harm your paint and way cheaper than buying crappy products for lots of money that claim to do the same thing. Use a light solvent/paint prep for tar removal, and the good old 3M clay bar for everything else.
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