lee_cha_nin

OK, question for all you guys: What do I have to lubricate? Where can I find all the points (nipples), I was taking mine regularly to Nissan dealer for oil changes, but I am not positive they put grease at all. It's 2001 XE

I am having some concerns, will see. Today, I changed oil in my Pathy - 1qt of Marvel Mystery Oil + 4 qt of German Castrol 0W30. Before that, in the past 3 years, because I had 3rd party warranty (paid by dealer), I had to change oil every 3 months. A lot of $$$ down the drain, but I had to have it done by oil shop. Since all of them charge about 50 CAD, I did it mostly at Nissan dealer. 3 years x 4 OCIs x $50 = $600. Couldn't wait for the warranty to expire, it's so easy to change oil on Pathy. In my A4, it takes little bit more effort. For the past 3 years Pathy was getting Shell 5W30, then when the warranty expired, I ran Pennzoil HM for one OCI with 10% MMO. Today, finally good stuff. It costs me 4x$7 = $28 + $7 filter + $4 MMO = $39 with synthetic Since it's driven mostly short trips with a lot of cold starts, I hope 6 months will be OK because I have fear of dilution and condensation.

If you hover over there is a link which lets you see the picture; don't know why this is like that and others are OK, maybe the size?

I bought it with 150 000 km, no records of any flushes or maintenance, so now it's about 176 000, but the diff oil looked relatively good, the trans case was not that good, but it wasn't black and dirty neither. Planning to keep my truck for next few years, so...that was the reason. Another thing I am going to do after I do the brake job is to bleed the brakes using my own pressure bleeder very similar to this one Inexpensive Pressure Bleeder after reading this thread. So, in my quest for a cap (dealers charge premiums) I found @ Autozone this Ford's cap fits Pathy's brake reservoir Dorman Help 42046. This is just a picture Replacement cap You also need a washer or an o-ring so that it seals when you pressurize the master cylinder. The only other thing I am going to do is put a lot of clothes/rugs around the cylinder, just in case if it blows-up, although I did my 2001 A4 this way and with 15 psi I was able to flush clutch and brakes (they share the same fluid) just by myself.

Transfer case oil Bought 3 liters of Mobile 1 synthetic ATF Tools: Same as above, for the rear diff Here is your working area Well, everything is same as for rear diff, I did both at the same time (well, one after another) Power steering flush I did this few days before doing other fluids, don't have picture yet but here is what I did: Tools - hand pump or a large syringe with 1 ft of plastic tubing attached to it - 2 liters of ATF - 2 liters empty bottle for old oil - flashlight (to better see when filling/emptying fluids) - cloths/paper towels 1. Have 2 lit/quarts of Nissan ATF and make sure the wheels are straight 2. Take the PS reservoir lid off (the black one, on the left when standing in front of truck) 3. Take the screen, sitting under the cap, out; I found that needle nose pliers are best for this, make sure you don't cut/damage the screen 4. Wash the screen with carb-cleaner or electronic contact cleaner, mine was dirty; Put it aside 5. Using the hand pump, suck the old fluid out, as much as you can 6. Fill the res with new oil, make sure the level is correct 7. Put the cap back 8. Start the engine for 3-4 seconds and shut it off (the PS pump will be sucking from the reservoir and pushing the old oil back through return line) 9. Open the lid and repeat 5-8 until you run out of 1st bottle of oil I was surprised to see how bad the fluid was. Now, with second bottle, do the same as when flushing with 1st bottle, just with one difference: 8. Start the engine, turn the steering wheel from one end to another (full sweep) 2-3 times, make sure that at the end the wheels are straight, otherwise your level reading will not be correct You can do this 1-2 times, and do the rest of flushes as with 1st bottle (3-4 seconds and then shut-off). 10. After last flush, put the screen back, close the cap and adjust the level. My cap has 2 strips (for cold and for hot oil), make sure the wheels are straight, fill until oil level is almost touching "hot" mark, while "cold" is fully in oil 11. Tighten the cap, call your wife/gf and ask her to drive around the block - my wife , being Pathy's daily driver, was shocked to learn how easy suddenly was to turn the steering wheel. Of course, I took it for a spin before that to make sure everything was OK. 12. Keep checking your PS fluid level for the next few weeks

Rear diff oil I got Royal Purple MaxGear 75W90 from AutoZone ($17/liter, you need 3 liters/quarts) I got 1/2" ratcheting wrench, W-40, 2 ft of steel pipe, hand pump like this grease gun (10 bucks) Looking from the rear, under your Pathy I tried opening the fill plug with 1/2" ratchet driver, but despite all weight and muscles and even using a hammer on the wrench, nothing so 1. Get your oil, rugs, gloves, paper towels, oil container like when you do oil change, and get under your Pathy 2. You want to undo the fill plug first to make sure you will be able to fill the diff before you drain it 3. Get 1-2 ft of 1" steel pipe and 1/2" ratcheting wrench with an extension (also 1/2"), spray some W40 4. Put the wrench in, slide the pipe over the wrench handle, and try, try, try, slowly but steadily 5. When the plug starts moving, try without the pipe, undo it, clean it, try putting it back to check threads 6. Now, do the same with your drain plug, make sure oil container is under the plug 7. Let it drain, mine was quite clean, 8. Clean the drain plug of all metal pieces (it's magnetic), replace it 9. Suck the oil from bottle into the hand pump, put the hose into the fill hole and keep repeating it until oil starts overflowing (I put in about 2.5 liters) 10. replace the fill plug, tighten it 11.

For those interested in the topic, I got a letter from Nissan Canada about my 180 000 kms service (marketing) which made me thinking what to do beside the oil change - in the last 3 years (knock on the wood) I only did: 1. brakes (had them done) 2. spark plugs (myself, thanks to this forum) 3. oil changes Fuel filter Not knowing when it was changed (if ever), ordered on from autopartsway.ca for about $20 1. Open the hood, take the fusebox lid off and take out 15A fuel pump fuse, don't loose it 2. Start the engine, it will die in 2-3 seconds, crank it few more times so that it sucks fuel out of lines 3. Undo the fuel reservoir cap to release pressure in the tank, put the cap back like you do when you are putting gas in 4. Crawl under you Pathy, on your back, from the rear, when your head is under the rear diff, look up and left (hover over the picture to activate link to see it) 5. Get a rug/old clothes/paper towels to contain gasoline which is going to leak out; have goggles just in case 6. Undo the bracket which holds the filter (I think 10 mm socket) and open it up 7. Undo the hose clamps; Remember the orientation of the old filter or use marker so that you put the new one in correct orientation I tried prying with a flathead screwdriver, but no luck. Then I realized I had these Hose pliers and it only took 5 seconds with them 8. Fuel starts flowing like it will never stop, don't worry it will, just make sure no smokers are around you 9. Look at the old filter and admire your skills, mine looked like factory one 10. Check if the hoses are crimped/cracked, mine had crack where the clamp was; so I tried to see if I will be able to cut off 1" of it and still put everything back together, the fuel hoses (mine at least) were long enough so I cut off the cracked end of it 11. Put the new filter in observing the orientation, a little bit of grease on the new filter nipples helps; tighten the clamps and the bracket screw 12. Put the fuse back 13. Start your Pathy 14. Have a beer

Thanks boys!

1) so in my understanding that rubber piece is just there to help/dampen the coil oscillations, right? 2) How much efforts/skills does it take to replace it?

Safe over speed bumps?

Mine (2001, 170k kms, Vancouver) was also corroded and what I just did (a month ago) was: 1. Clean the fenders (rear) from inside, all around wheels, wash, dry, 2. Sand paper 3. Rust-Check or something similar that chemically reacts with rust and acts as a primer 4. Let it cure 5. spray paint, closest matching color, I didn't spray from the outside, one has to take the rear will off and look at the rim of the fender to notice paint work Will see how it will hold

This rubber piece has broken tip, rotten or whatever Rear suspension Bumber assy Is it something that is critical to replace so that other components don't start braking up, or I can live with it for now? My Pathy is mostly in city-driving environment

Just found this thread on another forum, talking about MAF sensor and O2 sensor. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=2...;postid=2560946

2001 XE , 157 000 km, 18 lit/100 (13 MPG), mostly city driving though - changed air filter - put Lucas inj. cleaner several times - did inj. cleaning service - regular oil change (every 3 months) ---> and still no way to bring the consumption down. What else to do?

With Toyo Open Country (P245/70R16) @ 28 psi and city driving (short trips), I am at around 13 mpg