bdbrooksy

Got your email. What up crackers?

Thank you guys very much for taking the time to respond to my situation. I guess that my course of action will be to strip the hub down and see if there is anything obvious. Dean, I will follow your recommendations, but one question, do I actually drive around the block minus the outer hub completely?

I am absolutely furious. Some joker decided to partially lock my drivers side Warn manual hub(which I only installed last weekend). The result was that when I was on the highway on my 10 mile commute last night, a knocking began from my drivers side hub/cv axle area. Well, I guessed what the problem might be by the time I was pulling in my driveway and the banging had gotten much worse, so I hopped out and sure enough--the hub was partially engaged--about 3/4 of the way to the locked position. So, I disengaged it and hoped for the best. Well when I got in this AM to go to work, the hub is now unlocked, but the banging is still there(sound like a freaking helicopter under my left front) and almost seems to be getting worse. (It seems to stop when I brake or turn the wheel hard) So, my question for anyone out there that may have some true mechanical knowledge is----What has this situation damaged? Is it the Warn hub, inner hub or possibly the cv axle, or something else. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, I am so f...ing pissed and I hope that it is not a major fix. Thanks alot! BB NC USA

Thanks alot so far for the feedback. I'm still wondering if anyone has tried the neoprene type boot on either a new axle, or just as a replacement boot. The angle on my cv axles right now seems so severe that I'm really concerned about the boots holding up(could you tell?) I think I'm leaning towards the new one I mentioned earlier--with no core charge, that means that I'll still have a semi-workable axle to bring along wheelin for a really "bad" day. DT, thanks for the link, it was helpful on the repair itself.

I recently lifted my 99 SE and it took all of 2 weeks and one wheelin session at the beach here in NC to blow out one of my inner CV boots. I feel like its too late to salvage it, as it is already grinding--mostly when turning. My truck has 95k on it, so the boots were pretty thrashed before the lift, so my question is: What type of replacment axle should i buy, factoring in the increased stress on these joints from the lift springs? It would seem to me that the neoprene boots would be much less likely to crack, but I'm just not sure and because its such an important part of the 4w setup, I want to install the best part. I'm leaning towards a Cardone Select which is a new axle, and uses neoprene boots.----Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Ps--I've located this axle at partsamerica.com for 99.99-no shipping/core charges. Thanks Alot.

AC VS OME__I DISAGREE I just wanted to chime in because it seems that almost everyone on this board has chosen the OME springs over the AC lift springs. I just wanted to say that I recently installed the AC setup and it was well worth the extra $$. I went with KYB struts and 9000x on the rear. It took me about a month to decide what to go with and I just wanted to say that I couldnt be happier. My feeling is Why go half way? You still have all of the postitive handling aspects of the OME lift---increased stiffness etc., but now the truck looks so much tougher and the front clearance is drastically improved--plus, I could even go w/ 32's if I wanted to swap rims. (BFG 31's now) I also really like the adjustability of the 9000 shocks, I would highly recommend them if you do alot of wheelin/towin--they really work well. One last thing, I scored camber alignment bolts at Tirerack and saved 20$ vs AC. Thats my 2 cents.