95pathyguySD

I've had two instances where my truck wouldnt start and it was intermittent. Once about 5 years ago it was a wire that was above the radiator. A electrical specialist tracked it down on the dime of my mechanic who was stumped and had to send it out for a week. The second was when my key cylinder was going bad and I had to change my key cylinder in the column. I hope this helps.

Im back on the road finally. Thanks guys for all the advice. It was the Transmission cooler in the radiator leaking behind the bottom plastic. The radiator is okay but i just ended up replacing the whole unit. I have a additional trans cooler I will install in a few months as I just wanna test the new radiator and see if it functions as normal then will add the additional trans cooling at a later date.

Once in awhile they do pop up on ebay or others for sale.

I hope I caught it in time, but I have a major drip from the bottom of the radiator of transmission fluid dirty reddish pink oil. I think it's dirty because its rolling down and dripping off road grime. Radiator fluid looks clean from the cap.I checked the tranny fluid level and its clean looking as well. I will investigate more this weekend. I wont drive it till it's solved. I'm gonna guess and say my tranny lines have a leak or my tranny cooler in the radiator developed a crack and is leaking. So, was doing some research here and and found tranny coolers but... Hayden Automotive 514 High Performance Transmission Cooler B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler Hayden Automotive 679 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler B&M Model # 70268. 13,000 BTU B&M 70264: B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers TRANSMISSION COOLER BY LONG MFG LPD4589 So decisions decisions. Probably will replace radiator as well since its most likely gonna have issues if the tranny is having issues. More to come.

adamzan, No harness in sight, but that's a great point. Thanks.

Thanks Terranovation. Thanks for the pointers if others choose to remove the lense or need to in a case of a damaged lense. My question is about the glue. What type of glue was used originally?

**How to install a new rear tail light harness with sockets.** Order a genuine Nissan part #26551-41G00, in this case for a 1995 Pathfinder XE . I avoided the lense disassembly to avoid any mishaps. It makes the process a little bit awkward but I really didnt want to have a problem with the lense if I could avoid it. Remove the light access cover to the light backing by pressing the tab and pulling cover away. Turn each plastic light socket counterclockwise to loosen, remove each bulb and set aside in a safe place. Take note that there's two light grey and one black socket. Take note that two bulbs are single filament and the brake light is the double filament and have offset tabs and only fit back a certain way. The white clip connector has a release on the underside. Firmly press it and it releases by pulling away from lense. There is a plastic slotted clip that holds part of the harness on the lense backing. This clip is not detachable. You will see a black sleeve which holds the wires together. It basically needs to be pried away carefully slightly to free the harness. With your finger pinch the sleeve to make the wire slim so it comes out of the slot. There is one screw that holds the white male connector to the lens. ***Pay attention to this screw as you have a chance to possibly lose it in the body panel. There is a black tab that aligns it, do not attempt to remove it, its just there to align and should come loose from it. Loosen the screw with a phillips and then with your fingers back it off the rest of the way, hold it securely and set aside safely. Remove and inspect your old part with the new part, make sure it looks similar in quality and construction. I found it easier to put bulb grease and the bulbs in while the harness is out for inspection. Use grease as directed on label. Replace the bulbs and correct sockets into the lense backing by turning clockwise into the lock position. Pay attention to the tabs as they only go in one way. Replace the wiring harness into the split tab by firmly pressing it back in, you might need to work at it some gently. Place the metal tab from the harness on the black plastic guide then secure the screw by starting it with your fingers then using the phillips to finish off. Connect the male and female white connector. Test the lights by turning on all the lights and testing all signals and brake and reverse functions. Have someone help you with testing if mirrors or surface dosent reflect lighting. Be Sure your brake lights have standing markers and bright brake when depressing your brake pedal. Replace the access cover to the light backing. Clean your area and secure your vehicle. Have a great day.

Thank you RF600 for your response. I looked at the bulb sockets and it was neglected previously (9 plus year ago by the po) so decided to order a new genuine harness to get a baseline. I get scared with wiring for some reason. I really need to take a class or youtube lessons or something.

Genuine nissan part 26551-41G00 is the part number for the wiring harness. Subtotal $24.06Tax $1.80 Shipping & Handling $9.72 Order Total:$35.58

Another thing I noticed is both brake lights works fine during the day, but when you switch on the headlights and the running lights then apply the brake the light will go out. I'm tempted to just replace the whole assembly but I really just wanna try to address the issue as both lens are in good condition.

Any recomendations on a quality brake socket manufacture?

And the problem is back.

SO, an interesting thing happened and I thought I would share here with you all. My Pathy had the 1157 Kioto bulbs for 9 years since I bought her used. A few months ago driver rear brake went out (park lights were fine) and was replaced with 1157 Sylvania LL bulbs from Autozone. Replaced it and it worked so didnt think anything of it. I didnt drive the Pathy much at night and then last night noticed the driver brake light out again. So I open the access door tonight and inspected the bulb. I didnt see anything out of the ordinary with the bulb. I kept the old Kioto bulb so I could find some more and noticed the contact points were slightly different. The Sylvania are rounded and the Kioto are flat. I interchanged the passenger Kioto bulb and it would worked and then back and then decided to change the good Kioto bulb in the passenger brake light with a Sylvania and replace the right bulb with the Sylvania. Now everything works. The only thing I could think is the contacts were not making correct contact with the bulbholder. I was gently flexing wired to see if there's a intermittent wire short and didnt find one. Everything seems to work both brake and park lights and while I was at it did a full walkaround and checked all the light functions with my helper. I'm happy again and legal on the road.

Thank you k9sar and adamzan.

Any help would be appreciated.