OldSlowReliable

New brake line made by a local parts shop is in, but the fuel lines cracked open in the process. Gonna price this out, but I'm getting pressure from shewhomustbeobeyed to scrap the job and cut my losses. Anyone got fuel lines laying around?

Thanks! Looks like where the fluid was dripping from, it can only be from the hard line rusting, so I think I'll go into it with that as my approach. I'll keep y'all updated on the progress.

That'd be awesome, Trogdor, if you're able to!

I was hoping you could tell me?

Diagnosing a rupture in my rear brake system from 180 miles away, the fluid is leaking from the area directly above the rubber loops that captive the e-brake lines on a 4 door wd21. Wondering if someone can take a look under, and possibly photograph to give me an idea of where the junctions/transitions from hard line to flex hose lie under there. Thanks, Travis

Joa, While I do not live in your area, so I cannot comment on what kind of shops would do a body lift for you, I'd assume most offroad shops would if you gave them the instructions/kit. Here are your options for body lifts, 2" or 3"- https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/body-lifts-pathfinder-c-117_354.html It is not entirely complicated, in fact it was the first thing I ever did mechanically on any vehicle. There are good writeups on this site, and more than enough people have done them if you run into trouble so perhaps you will decide to do it. If you're still looking for a shop to do it, I suggest contacting a local offroad forum or club to see who they trust to do work on their rigs, and give them a call to see if they are interested in doing it. While it isn't like cutting springs or changing coilovers, I wouldn't say that it is any more difficult or invasive. Unbolt a few select items for clearance, unbolt body, lift, rebolt, and change a few things (gas fill tube, steering column etc).

For anyone else who likes replacing bolts & such as long as you have them off, here are the stats on the ones I replaced this time around- Balljoint 4 upper mounting bolts- m8x1.25 25mm Auto Hub Bolts- m8x1.25 65mm (apx 65) Anyone who can't find the auto hub bolts, here is a site that sells them, also in SS http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=if4h7r

I have that compressor, I use it to fill up two 7 gallon tanks before entering the dunes, then I have enough air to go from single digit psi in my 33's, to ~40. Actually the compressor will do 3 without hiccuping, but I can enslave my passengers to man a tank each and get done quicker. I also fill up another 7 gallon at home for use in cleaning carbs, mostly using an air nozzle, or blowing crap of my bench. I love mine, use it year round for cars, motorcycles, bikes, tanks, and such, no complaints. I paid around $50-70 for mine, and got it a couple years ago, (probably 2-3)

Just some quick info- The twelve point bolts on the shaft required a 12mm socket I only found it necessary to undo the autolocking snapring, and the upper balljoint to remove, waiting for parts to come in so not certain if they will go in the same. If you can get the shaft to lock to the hub, you can put the lug nuts back on and put a small floorjack/2x4 between one and the floor at 3/9 o'clock to halt the shaft for easy bolt removal, also works for cranking on the hub bolts I'll update with any other tips/tricks when I get the shipment in to finish my front end. I've ordered two duralast remans with a lifetime warranty for 57 a pop, $100 core charge. Autozone said they should take half a day to arrive, so hopefully tomorrow. First side removal took about an hour, but I'm familiar with the hub n such, and waited for some pb blaster to settle in, second side removal was about 35 minutes, not including time to put it on stands and take the wheel off, as I put the entire front end up first thing.

Depends on when the money is "due" really, I'd probably be interested in one.

if I'm not mistaken, there is a slip joint on the shaft.

Given that r50s have struts, isn't backspacing a little more important?

think of any motorcycle on the road. no strut covers on the forks for a reason. (save for a few that do it for looks)