oilman

He's right! driveing without a clutch is something every manual owner should at least try to learn. It really isnt hard, but if its your only option and youuve never done it before, you will have a hard learning curve. Downshifting is a little tricky, but manageable.

if you are considering LSD or a locker up front to increase traction, then I assume you have or will upgrade your auto locking hubs to manuals, because if you didn;t the extra force applied by locking the front end will destroy the autos. With the manual hub setup you can completely seperate the wheel from the diff. so your comment is wrong you can weld the front spiders and the only time you will notcie the effect is when the hubs are locked. agreed steering will be difficult on any kind of hard terraign.

like he said there are reams of info and opinion on this topic on this board. But I'll give you my .02 real quick Stay away from automotive customizers (4x4parts.com) front upper control arms, the geometry is not very good on them, but I do like their rear coils very much, they are niuce and spongy for great axle articulation. If I were to do my lift again I would use the front UCAs from superlift, with the rear coils from AC, rancho 5000s like I have now, and torsion bars I would source somewhere. Keep in mind that if you do go with a lift and get over 31x10.5 tires you will need to consider steering upgrades. enjoy your reading.

the factory tubular steps are designed to LOOK like an off road setup, but are not designed to FUNCTION like real sliders or bars. the tubes will crush like a beer can if they touch rocks. That said if you just want the look, then go that route.

shavings in the manual tranny is not uncommon. have a magnetic drain plug installed so you can monitor how much shavings are actually showing up, and have the tranny overfilled with fluid. There is a TSB about low tranny oil levels in the garage section. heres a link.http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621&st=0

running 3 qts low for 800 miles is what caused it. It you are just now noticing the black mark above the exhaust pipe then I would say for syure that you didnt start burning that much oil until you heard the loud knocking and went to your mechanic. You might be able to get a crate reman engine instead of rebuilding your engine for close money. A factory reman is always preferable over having someone do it for you. Those engines are built in a factory with all the necessary tools by someone who does several of them a week, as opposed to the local shop who rebuilds maybe a couple engines a year, and maybe doesn;t have the right tool handy. I dont know about availability of the 3.3 as a reman, but I'd check into it before I had someone do it. As to your earlier question about oil weight that will last longer, go heavier! like 20-50wt. Unless you live in cold conditions, in tha case just keep alopt of oil handy. and as mentioned there are lots of additives to slow oil consumption.

did you come up with this notion all by yourself, or did you get bonafide advice that the tx10 will handle the gear lube

steering wont be nearly as bad as having a locked front end, but like was said I think the only time youd really notice a tendency to go straight is if you were powering through a fast turn :oops:

front locker for the pathy???? do tell!!!

I'm pretty sure the R50 calls for ATF in the t case. but all gear driven cases call for gear oil usually

I get my pantie in a twist whenever I try to use that search function. -bounce- Congrats on getting it to work

the noise you hear is most likeky the engine and tranny spinning that much faster. It is probobly not a problem. About which gear to use consider this. When in low range you truck will use several gears just to get to 15mph, so I dont recommend leaving it in D, cause this will cause the tranny to shift excessivly. I suggest starting out in 1 and if you really need that much more speed, manually move up to the next gear. Of course if you are running through mud maybe you want to leave it in drive.

I think this is the key. If you are spinning a tire or turning or whatever then by engagind the t caseyou are trying to mesh gears that are spinning at different speeds. I have never experienced the problem described when going into 4HI, but like said I always try to do it while moving slowly straight and although i'm in gear I am not really on the throttle

Is there an echo in here?

HMMM BDS lift: No UCAs No price... I wonder what they want for just the coils. and the max tire size is the same as what you can fit stock. Id say not worth it, that msuh lift without new UCAs will eat yo ball joints whoops, just realized the question was about r 50s... well my comments still hold true about the wd21.