TruTaing

hahah.. thats called alcoholism jk jk jk. To each his/her own! Im sure one day, I will find an enjoyable beer/wine. Until then, I will stick w/ juice.... and coffee... :x

Ya know... My Coworker hated beer too... He said he had never liked a single one. Then he went to Germany for a few months and all that changed. Either Germany was REALLY hard on him and he had to do a lot of drinking or the beer there was amazing. I dont doubt there are good beers out there - I just have yet to meet one. It doesnt help that I quit drinking too.... lol.

Oh... I know what that is, haha... Different terminology for the same things!

Sorry for the newbie question: What exactly is this thing?

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:puke: all beer tastes bad :x

Hello. Im in the same boat w/ my pathy being my first 4x4.... Lotsa reading to be done Welcome to the world of seeing all the cool stuff + wanting it on your truck!

IIRC... I believe there are halogen projectors and xenon projectors and be certain that this projector is designed to output light from a xenon d2s bulb and it should be fine... Most of the ebay projector head lights just LOOK like Bi-Xenons, but in reality they are just ~okayish~ (and that's being nice) halogen projectors....

After having spent some time on the HIDplanet forums, I would also highly suggest NOT converting to xenon bulbs w/ an HID kit. If the conversion is to be made, convert the whole headlight w/ a projector and then (only then), use a HID kit. Otherwise the light emitted from a xenon bulb in a reflector housing designed for a halogen will create lots of hot spots and ineffective light that has greater potential to blind on coming drivers. This is one of the areas I looked at right when I got my pathfinder. The low beams are incredibly dim, but I dont think the stock bulbs are any good. In addition, the glass housing that the light has to go through is very dirty/old - if i had more time, id would thoroughly clean and attempt my1path's suggestion!

Ah, Ive read alot about the new 370zs.... Read it was smaller, lighter, and more powerful than the 350z. Cant go wrong w/ those three attributes! congrats!

As usual things go mostly as planned during the weekend. We got around to changing the oil on the pathy and took off the front wheel to investigate the brake pad/rotors issue. Luckily, we found that there was plenty of pad AND rotor life left. Damn those stealerships for lying to my neighbor. Yay for the neighbor sellin' us the car for cheaper cuz the car supposedly needed more work So we're gonna wait on the brake pads/lines for now... With the front driver side wheel off, we got to investigating the lil dent in the front driver side fender and and a big dent in the bumper. (neighbor's pathy got charged by an elk... who woulda thunk? - thats what he tells us at least) The big dent in the bumper was primarily in the plastic while the dent in the fender was small. Either way, we got to putting the heat gun + lots of just manual labor on the fender and bumpers. Both the bumper and fender look lots better now! I hard read somewhere in the R50 forms that removing the roof racks helps your fuel efficiency so we removed those and managed a good 100 mile highway trip w/ about a quarter tank. Does that sound about normal/avg to you guys? Things I discovered this weekend on the R50: Holly @!*% the plastic wheel well linings are such a pain to remove. So are the flare. Is there a more graceful way of removing these things aside from yanking real hard after you get all the screws out? They were such a pain, I didn't wanna put them back on.... I dont think the funny engine noise is coming from the timing belt. Sounds like its just coming from one of the accessory belts. Could be a cheap fix! I also noticed some rust on the bottom of the slider bars where they mount to the car. Is this normal? I would have imagined that these things would be a lot more durable (at the same time I could see how 10+ years under a car gettin hit by rocks could change that)? Ya guys got any other suggestions for places to look for rust? Most the under body appeared rust free. (no salt on the roads in Seattle!) Next weekend: Investigate the belt sounds more Clean the throttle body/MAF Any tips/hints/suggestions for next weekend's tasks would be greatly appreciated!

holly .... that looks painful.

lololol

Yea, for 800 bux its a pretty dang good deal! I didnt even take a look at the odometer last time I looked at the car, but I looked at it today and it only has 193k miles! My neighbor (previous owner) came by w/ all of its service records today too! New things I found out: Timing belt was changed around 103k miles. Front pads were noted to be thin about 10k miles ago. Transmission fluid was flushed 20k ago. The car was bought at the END of 96 and is actually a 97 car! A few services back (about 20k miles), the valve gasket was leaking and was not fixed. Additionally, the throttle body was grimey and had been stuck open a few times, but he declined to fix this. Tires have less than 10k miles on them Weekend plan of attack: Change oil + filter Clean/inspect throttle body / MAF / intake (and associated parts) Order front pads and rotors + SS brake lines Snap some pix for you guys. Maybe flush the diff fluid.

Hey NPORA readers, I live in Washington where the weather has been getting worse on an annual basis during the winters (yay for global warming?) and needed a car that wouldn't get stuck in the snow in the winter, so I recently picked up an auto '96 Pathfinder with 200k on the clock for $800 and like my other car, I will probably end up modding it plenty.... The car had one owner prior to me (my neighbor) and he bought it new and it has never let him down. I'm hoping w/ a little TLC the car will treat me the same for several hundred k miles more... I'm planning to drive it primarily in the winter to go snowboarding and to take me through any sort of bad weather that gets thrown at me... With that in mind, I plan to make the car into a pure winter vehicle... Ive got small plans thus far for the R50, but I need to take care of the basic maint first... The front pads and rotors need to be replaced. I figure adding stainless steel brake lines + flushing the brake fluid would also be a good idea. Additionally, if the front rotors are going to come off, I figure I should go the distance and install some of those locking hubs Ive read a lot about.... I figure after 200k+ miles of use, the car's bushings have been thoroughly abused also. I would like to update the bushings after the brakes are done... I guess at this point, I would look to increase the engine's fuel efficiency by improving intake and exhaust.... After that stuff is taken care of... bigger tires and maybe a small lift... And I'm gonna tell myself now that I wont go any further w/ this car.... We'll see how well I stick to that. Quick Questions: As w/ my past car, reading through the forums has lead me to lots of great material, but not many concrete resources of where to get good deals on parts... Please drop me a link with the best places ya guys like to buy maint/mod parts from. What are the regular service intervals on the R50s? What else should I look at to make sure my car is running in good condition? Thanks! -j0hn PS - I'm big on photography so if any of ya in the Seattle area need a nice pic or two snapped of your cars in action, just hit me up.