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Hello to all. I'm glad I found this site. I own a 1992 Pathfinder SE with 230,000 miles on her and still going strong. I have recently discovered that my rear main seal is leaking and am now ready ($$$) to get it fixed. While I have the motor out, I am considering a new exhaust (manifold back). I may ($$$) have the rust issues addressed also. Any other maintenance suggestions while we have the motor out? I look forward to learning a thing or two on here!

Edited by Airborne82
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Well, I guess I have shown my ignorance! P... While I do consider myself somewhat of a back yard mechanic, there are some things I am not sure of therefore, we all have those friends we turn to for answers. And, we all have those friends that lead you astray! When I mentioned to my (FRIEND) that I needed to replace the rear main seal, he said: Oh, on those Pathfinders you have to pull the engine! I thought this sounded a bit much but trusted his word! The joke is on me!!! :P

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Welcome, welcome! You should be able to find any info here to help your pathy! There are a lot of good guys on here with good info. Yeah, you dont need to pull the engine to replace the rear main seal, but you do have to pull the trans! Just make sure it is the rear main seal and not just the oil pan leaking. You will kick yourself if you pull the trans and find the seal not leaking. Enjoy the site and the pathfinder! :)

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hehhe.. ^^^ he's right.. you CAN do the RMS with the motor in... but if curiosity and time have the better of you you can pull the motor too.

You will basically have to do almost the same stuff to do it with the motor in as out. You have to drop the front diff, trans and raise the motor a little (makes it a tad easier.. when i say a little.. i mean like 2")

As above, make sure it's your RMS that's leaking.. is it definitely engine oil and not gear oil? the 2 have very different smells so you should be able to tell. Also, as above, it could just be your oil pan leaking.... clean the area down below.... run yer pathy til working temp then turn her off and wait. then go look. ;) may save you time and $$.

as for exhaust, if you want to make a little HP and a nice rumble and let her breathe n fart better, i highly recommend the doug thorley headers, and a nice 2.5" high flow catalytic converter with a cat back system ;) also, a K & N filter if you don't already have one. -bounce-

and if you have the autotrgic tranny, an aftermarket tranny cooler...... if you have the 5 speed.... you da man! :D

 

oh yeah.. HELLO & WELCOME!! :D:beer:WAVEY

Edited by Slick
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if you have the 5 speed.... you da man! :D

And if you do have a 5spd... check that clutch while you have the engine, tranny or both out.

It is the PERFECT time to replace it if it is close to needing it. Even if it's not completely gone, if it is close then the time saved doing it now is worth the money spend on the clutch before the current one goes out. :aok:

 

Welcome to the boards WAVEY

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Thanks for the welcome all!

 

I had a tech tell me it was the rear main seal. Unfortunately I didn't know the guy and surely he wouldnt tell me that to drum up business! :D I bought the Pathy with about 60,000 miles on it and have had a few woes with it. I have had 3 manifold studs break, one cracked manifold, master cylinder and booster and mysterious spitting/sputtering/bogging after I have run it through a car wash that has the under carriage spray. I also had the tranny rebuilt. I bought the Pathy from my brother who is a maintenance freak. So, at 90,000 miles, I took her in for a tranny flush and fill. 2 days later, I'm sitting with a fried tranny! The tech tells me that changing the fluid must have stirred up sludge and clogged the filter which in turn, burn up the clutch plats.....yada yada yada blah blah....... But all in all, it has been a reliable vehicle that I can still take on long road trips.

 

I was under the impression that the Thorley's wouldnt fit and automatic tranny?

 

 

Does anyone know a good Nissan tech in the central Indiana or surrounding area?

 

Also, i've got the dreaded rust issues that most have and need a good body shop tech. Antone know one?

 

Again, thanks all.

 

Oh, anyone drink beer? I'm buyin! :beer:

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ouch on the manifold studs i had good experience in getting those out by spraying them down with wd40 and using a screw extractor set i got from NAPA...Good Luck with the fix

 

welcome to the site....r u army? j/w im from the bragg area originally

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welcome.

 

i know of no independents here that specialize in nissan. tom wood nissan on the north side is the one of the better dealer service departments. not cheap but they take good care of you there. of course you can do almost anything yourself if you're willing. garage is nice to have for the stuff you mention. good luck and ask away and we'll try to help you.

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yes, you can get the thorleys to fit an automatic.... just a bit tighter fit ;)

 

as for studs.. get some thorleys n get the upgraded 300Z non turbo studs n you won't have a problem anymore ;)

if your RMS is definitely leaking, depending how long it's been leaking, chances are, if you do have the 5 speed... it has begun to fry your clutch (happened to me). as red said.. if it's close..... change it while yer there......

 

umm.. i know i missed something but i am sleepless so forgive me! :beer:

 

beer.... did someone mention beer? make it a jack n coke n i'm there :D -alcohol-

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yes, you can get the thorleys to fit an automatic.... just a bit tighter fit  ;)

 

as for studs.. get some thorleys n get the upgraded 300Z non turbo studs n you won't have a problem anymore  ;)

if your RMS is definitely leaking, depending how long it's been leaking, chances are, if you do have the 5 speed... it has begun to fry your clutch (happened to me). as red said.. if it's close..... change it while yer there......

 

umm.. i know i missed something but i am sleepless so forgive me!  :beer:

 

beer.... did someone mention beer? make it a jack n coke n i'm there  :D  -alcohol-

I have the automatic. Is there a chance I could still have had some oil get in there?

 

Also, will the y-pipe work on the automatic?

 

And, do you think I will have any problems having this many miles on the engine and swapping to headers?

Edited by Airborne82
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ouch on the manifold studs i had good experience in getting those out by spraying them down with wd40 and using a screw extractor set i got from NAPA...Good Luck with the fix

 

welcome to the site....r u army? j/w im from the bragg area originally

I was at Bragg/82nd from '87 to '91. I still get down that way every once in a while. I am trying to get down there next week for All-American week.

Edited by Airborne82
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I have the automatic. Is there a chance I could still have had some oil get in there?

 

Also, will the y-pipe work on the automatic?

 

And, do you think I will have any problems having this many miles on the engine and swapping to headers?

well... your torque converter could be bad.... use the search function.. there are a LOT of write ups about the thorley install on the automatics ;) it has been done several times with little to no issues.

 

no, using headers will probably prolong your pathys life.. these motors thrive on being able to breathe.. and the thorleys sure do let them have air...... now.. if you were talkin supercharger or turbos i would be iffy.... headers can only help not hinder your truck :)

the stock manifolds are a bad design and restrict flow to a point... as well as snapping studs like toothpicks :angry:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7368 sly

 

use the search function and search around for the thorley on auto write ups.. there are a few recent discussions on the subject and some worthy advice as well. I know our search function sucks, be patient and your pot of gold will be found ;):aok:

 

BTW: do you have an aftermarket tranny cooler on yer auto? if not.. GET ONE!!!!!!!! it will save your trannys life. :contract:

Edited by Slick
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sssh just an afterthought.. what mileage does she have now? at 105,000 the t-belt is super due for a change.

also.. as i said above... with stock manifolds, because of the bad design, they will keep cracking and studs will keep snapping, with the thorleys.. your problems are solved ..... sly

Edited by Slick
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sssh just an afterthought.. what mileage does she have now? at 105,000 the t-belt is super due for a change.

also.. as i said above... with stock manifolds, because of the bad design, they will keep cracking and studs will keep snapping, with the thorleys.. your problems are solved ..... sly

A little over 230,000. I am due now for a timing belt change.

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A little over 230,000. I am due now for a timing belt change.

yes. definitely. don't leave that any longer. remember to change your water pump, t'stat and check your other belts, hoses, general conditions while the covers are off. ;):beer:

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yes. definitely. don't leave that any longer. remember to change your water pump, t'stat and check your other belts, hoses, general conditions while the covers are off. ;):beer:

I might need a little help gettin the covers off!! :P

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pffft. pretty simple. just a step-by-step kinda deal. just remember to put all the cover bolts back in their respective holes.... bad things can happen if ya don't...... trust me ;) hehehe.. i put one back in that was too long in the bottom n the sucker hit the timing pulley.. awful noise.. cracked the cover..... mmm..... :wacko:P...

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A little over 230,000. I am due now for a timing belt change.

the t-belt should be your priority right now. these t-belts go around 200k if not changed ever and that get's expensive man. inteference engines so anything in contact with the valves goes crunch..

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