MellowCat Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 any other R50 owners with the 3.5 engine had to replace your coils? I'm having issues with the motor running real bad, poping the check engine light(sometimes even flashing). I read the codes and reset. The car then drives fine for a day or so then I repeat the process. The dealer tells me I need the coils(and possibly the O2 sensors) replaced for $650. Does this sound familier to anyone? By the way, the rear O2 sensors run $450 installed......this is like 10 times more than BMW charges! I love my pathfinder, but with $1000 worth of electrial work I feel like I'm driving something German.... MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 do you have any mechanical skill? o2 sensors are generally very easy to change, well thats what ive found anyway. i.e. they just screw into the exhaust. so unplug the wiring and unscrew the sensor. coil packs a GENERALLY the same. unplug, unscrew. it just depends on where its located. if you can see it and can get to it then go for it. sorry im not familiar with the 3.5L engine but have done this stuff to newer cars and had no trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 sooo, you read the codes. what were they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 I bet a general mechanic can beat that quote with aftermarket parts for a lot less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Digler Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Mellowcat, I have an '01 Pathfinder with the 3.5L and two ignition coils failed at 79,000km. Nissan told me to change all six coils, so I did, and it's been fine ever since. It had the same drivability issues you mentioned before I changed them. You can do the job yourself (I did) if you have some skills. You have to remove all the plastic intake, mass air meter, air box, throttle body, some other odds and ends before you can get to them all. Took me about 2-3 hours, have never done it on that truck before. The only big deal, was the cost of these coils. I paid around $110 Canadian a piece for the oem replacement. Joe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MellowCat Posted May 8, 2006 Author Share Posted May 8, 2006 Thanks for all of the replies. I normally would do this repair myself, but didn't have the time honestly. Parts ran about $85 per coil, I replaced all 6 of them. The codes I read intially were: P1320 P0301 and the final time, when I quit driving the car(it was shaking and missing too bad!) P1320 - ignitor circuit malfuntion P0301 - missfire detected P0140 - O2 Sensor P0130 - O2 Sensor Resetting the codes each time was a temporary fix. As the problem got worse the fix would last for less and less time. Anyone buying a higher mileage 3.5 should figure this repair(and O2 Sensor replacement) into their costs of ownership. Any other known issues with 2001 or 3.5L engine I should know about? My transmission is slipping out of gear at times too, I understand this is a known issue too and my TCM(transmission control module) will need to be replaced. Anyone been through this repair, could I do it myself? Thanks for the replies, MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 (edited) Hey guys, I've been experiencing the same issue's as the above post and have seen some of the same complaints about the coil packs ins the VQ35 pathfinders. I figured I'd do some experimenting and start a write-up as the what the codes are and what the fix is. Current symptoms: Vehicle runs rough when the SES light is blinking Once warmed up the SES light turns on solid and the vehicle runs fine. SES code p1320 (ignition signal primary) SES code p0302 (misfire 2cyl) Diagnosis: Engine is not firing on 1 or more cylinders due to either a bad coil pack or spark plug. Fix: I am starting with new plugs. From what I read, NGK irridiums are the recommended plug. If this does not fix the issue I will replace the coil packs and report back. I replaced the plugs last night and all 6 were gapped between .070 and .080 (spec is .044). I also swapped coil pack 2 (suspect coil) with coil pack 6 to see if the problem follows the coil pack. The engine didn't miss when I started it up. A trip around the block showed no significant power increase and it didn't run any smoother than prior th the misfire issue's. Of course it never ran poorly except when it threw the misfire code so I wasn't expecting a huge improvement here. One question on the coil packs. From what I read, the dealer sells them for about $100 each. NAPA sells them for $72 for P/N ECHIC460 (cylinder 1) and $79 for P/N ECHIC457 (cylinder 2-6). An ebay vendor sells the full set for $220 under P/N 22448-8J115 which is manufactured by Karyln/STI. Now for some questions: Has anyone used any of the parts listed above? The set for sale on EBAY says it's compatible with Any VQ35DE engine, however NAPA has a different part # for the coil packs for the 02 maxima and the 02 pathfinder (the only two I checked on the NAPA website. Others may also be different). Are the coil packs from any VQ35DE engine compatible? Is there a reason that coil 1 is different than coils 2-6? Coil packs 1 through 6 all have the same part number (22448 4W000) and have NISSAN stamped on the side. The one difference is the connector location. The connector for coils 2-6 is on the side of the coil pack, while the connector for coil 1 is on the top. At this point I am going to order the set of 6 off EBAY and worst case I will have to order the #1 coil through NAPA. Then I will always have a spare. Any confirmed information is appreciated. I'll also include a write-up on the replacement once all the information is figured out. Bigmatt Edited January 16, 2008 by bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysmash Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 I had the same problem. I started out by replacing the plugs. during the summer it ran fine no problems but as soon as it got cooler problems came back. My codes were p1320 and p0305 so then all i did was replace the cylinder 5 coil and no have had no problems. But remember cylinder coils 2-6 are the same but the number 1 cylinder is different. but if you replace the coil you should be fine. as for the codes with the o2 sensor i dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 (edited) GREAT INFO Bigmatt!! Iridium plugs require much less voltage to fire...this makes it easier on the coils to fire...the cold indicates that electrons move less in cold temps, so the coil had to work harder to fire (faulty coil shows up worse in cold temps). I replaced all my plugs and yes it took about 2-3 hrs...not hard at all, just take your time and remove all necessary parts. O2 sensors...I thought that somone said you had to have David Blaine skills to get to one of them but I cant remember. Use lots of PB Blaster and it will be easy(ier) to bust loose those O2 sensors. After replacing your O2's on the 2001 model go ask the dealer to update flash your ECU, there is a TSB about the trucks computer warming up the O2 sensors funny and shortening their lives! NEW COILS!? I think that at this point I would ask Bigmatt...he HAS done all that homework!! Edited January 16, 2008 by 02silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 See updates in blue in Post 7. Also, while I was under the hood I noticed the MFG tag that says mine is a LR50 model. Do Are all 96-03's designated this way? I always thought that it was just an R50 designation. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I think that the L is for Late, as in later R50. Just a guess....eesshh maybe they also meant last R50! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 UPDATE: This last weekend I took the Pathy for 300 mile road trip up north and she performed flawlessly. SES light went out halfway though the trip which I believe happens automatically with a certain number of on/off cycles. It started without a stumble Sunday morning after a -3 degree night with the engine compartment full of snow (FYI, don't park with your grill into the wind during a blowing snowstorm). It also started on first crank instead of rotating once or twice before catching. I even got to take it on some pretty nice two-tracks on the way out an never skipped a beat. Conclusions: Before changing coil packs, check you spark plugs. They seemed to have fixed my issue's. For the record, my engine had 83k on the clock and had the original plugs. The engine starts easier and the SES code has gone away. No real difference was seen in fuel mileage or power. One additional note, Coil pack 2 is directly below the oil filler neck. Mine had oil sludge all around it from where the PO spilled oil while filling. Use a funnel, and it may save you coils. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Good info guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Well my Misfire is back. It has been missing on and off for about a month now but it always went away after going a mile or two down the road. I had Autozone run the codes and I came up with a misfire on cylinder 6. For reference the coil pack on 2 was misfiring when this happened before (read above) and I had swapped 2 and 6 when I changed my plugs. So it looks like the coil pack on 6 is the trouble one so I'm only going to replace that one for now (don't have the cash for all 6). My question is what brand coil pack would everyone recommend. Rock Auto has 3 brands listed. Standard Auto Products, Airtex and AC Delco. Anyone have any recommendations? I 'm also going to replace the plugs again while I'm in there. Are NGK Irridiums still the plug of choice? Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 I 'm also going to replace the plugs again while I'm in there. Are NGK Irridiums still the plug of choice? Bigmatt The iridiums plugs require less power (due to lower resistance) from the coil to fire, making it easier on the ignition system. I have them, and pulled mine after 20K and they look new, gap and all! I got 0 noticable difference from the truck, but the plugs are working correctly and wearing just perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 The iridiums plugs require less power (due to lower resistance) from the coil to fire, making it easier on the ignition system. I have them, and pulled mine after 20K and they look new, gap and all! I got 0 noticable difference from the truck, but the plugs are working correctly and wearing just perfect! I'll order the irridiums from Rock Auto and if my current plugs are OK I'll just hang on to them as spares. Any suggestions on the Coil Pack? They're all within $3.00, but I know there was an update along the lines (marked with a black sticker) and I'd like to make sure I get the updated ones. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 I'll order the irridiums from Rock Auto and if my current plugs are OK I'll just hang on to them as spares. Any suggestions on the Coil Pack? They're all within $3.00, but I know there was an update along the lines (marked with a black sticker) and I'd like to make sure I get the updated ones. Bigmatt That blk sticker thing, or the "0" on top of the coil in white...was some sort of an indicator of the updated coils, but I think that was just because for a year or so dealers had both on the shelves, I would think they would all be good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyV Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 That blk sticker thing, or the "0" on top of the coil in white...was some sort of an indicator of the updated coils, but I think that was just because for a year or so dealers had both on the shelves, I would think they would all be good now. Hey guys thanks for the great info and updates. How does it act when you're getting a misfire? I was thrown a P1320 and P0305 a while back. When Idling I notice a momentary shaking, I'm guessing it's a misfire but not sure. When I'm in park and rev it to about 1500rpm's the tach bounces consistently and I can't figure out why. I'll try to post a video this week. Do you guys have pics on how to access the coil pack? Billu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 "When I'm in park and rev it to about 1500rpm's the tach bounces consistently and I can't figure out why" On my truck I have no code or misfire, but I do have this 1500rpm thing.... I can hold it at 1000 or 2000 or 3000 etc... but their is something at 1500...just cannot keep it there. It goes up and down.... I don't have power loss or high gas mileage etc... So I have no codes or performance loss but do suffer from the same 1500 thing (only on park)... So I doubt this is related to your code.... Sorry I cannot help more for the rest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 "When I'm in park and rev it to about 1500rpm's the tach bounces consistently and I can't figure out why" On my truck I have no code or misfire, but I do have this 1500rpm thing.... I can hold it at 1000 or 2000 or 3000 etc... but their is something at 1500...just cannot keep it there. It goes up and down.... I don't have power loss or high gas mileage etc... So I have no codes or performance loss but do suffer from the same 1500 thing (only on park)... So I doubt this is related to your code.... Sorry I cannot help more for the rest... On mine I have a noticeable lack of power (running on 5 cylinders instead of 6) and just above idle the engine vibrates quite bad. Enough that the shifter (I have a 5 speed) moves side to side about 1 1/2 inches when I give it some gas. I throw 2 codes when this happens. 1320 which is a General ignition fault, and 1306 which is misfire on cylinder 6 (1301 would be cylinder 1, 1302 would be cylinder 2, etc). My guess you issue may just be engine tuning. I can't say I've ever tried to hold the engine at 1500 in neutral, but it may be just the way the ECM is programmed from the factory. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I swapped out the misfiring coil pack today. Misfire is gone for now. I installed the Standard Motor Products Part # UF331 through Rock Auto. Take a look at the picture of the two coil packs They are identical, except that the Nissan logo on the boot has been scraped off and so has the Part # on the LH side. I'm thinking Standard Auto buts Nissan units but in order to import them they have to remove any association with Nissan. So if anyone is looking to save some money on replacing these I would look at the Standard Motor Products brand through Rock Auto. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyV Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I swapped out the misfiring coil pack today. Misfire is gone for now. I installed the Standard Motor Products Part # UF331 through Rock Auto. Take a look at the picture of the two coil packs They are identical, except that the Nissan logo on the boot has been scraped off and so has the Part # on the LH side. I'm thinking Standard Auto buts Nissan units but in order to import them they have to remove any association with Nissan. So if anyone is looking to save some money on replacing these I would look at the Standard Motor Products brand through Rock Auto. Bigmatt Sounds good Matt! How easy or hard is it to do this? Did you do any trouble shooting to narrow it down to the coil pack? Thanks! Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Sounds good Matt! How easy or hard is it to do this? Did you do any trouble shooting to narrow it down to the coil pack? Thanks! Billy Trouble shooting was a 1 step process. Have your codes read, autozone does this for free. Mine gave me a Misfire code and a Primary ignition code. This told me either plugs or coils. As far a difficulty, the #6 coil pack is the easiest to get to which is why I put my Suspect coil from 2 years ago in that location. Getting to 1-5 is more difficult because you have to remove the engine cover and several other items to get to them. It's an afternoon job at the most. Just make sure you have a good socket set and plenty of extensions. Bigmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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