XPLORx4 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 edit: seems like one of the bolts wont come off even after getting the nut off. Any way to get it loose or cut it off without a plasma cutter? Sounds about right. The bolt is rust-welded to the metal collar inside the bushing. When that happened to one of mine, I ended up having to use a die grinder to completely cut apart the end of the link. It took about an hour of grinding to get through the outer metal of the control arm as well as the bushing collar and bolt. Sucked. Fortunately, I had a new control arm to install in its place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 Sounds about right. The bolt is rust-welded to the metal collar inside the bushing. When that happened to one of mine, I ended up having to use a die grinder to completely cut apart the end of the link. It took about an hour of grinding to get through the outer metal of the control arm as well as the bushing collar and bolt. Sucked. Fortunately, I had a new control arm to install in its place. All i have is new bushing, so I think we are going to be grinding down the head of the bolt to the bracket on pretty much all of the others and praying that works...i read on one forum that someone used a sawzall on the bolt between the mounting points on the bracket, so if i need to cut those parts that shouldnt be a problem, just grinding will take a while and SUCK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 All i have is new bushing, so I think we are going to be grinding down the head of the bolt to the bracket on pretty much all of the others and praying that works...i read on one forum that someone used a sawzall on the bolt between the mounting points on the bracket, so if i need to cut those parts that shouldnt be a problem, just grinding will take a while and SUCK. Actually, a sawzall would probably work well, too, provided there's enough room, and you have a few blades to burn through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 We are going to get a couple extra blades this morning. We are still gonna have to grind down the head of the bolts. The front mounts came off fine, its the nuts and bolts inside of the drums that were bad. I tried to use and impact wrench on the one nut and it was so soft it immediately rounded it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 For any of you who have done this, did the original bushings have a metal sleeve on it? Im not sure if its necessary to remove the sleeve or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deej Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Ok im in the middle of doing it. What are the proper sizes for the nut and bolts, since the nuts are a different size then the bolts? I used 3/4" socket and it claimed my first breaker bar already, breaking the male end off in the female end in the socket. Thanks. edit: seems like one of the bolts wont come off even after getting the nut off. Any way to get it loose or cut it off without a plasma cutter? This is where I used an angle grinder with a narrow cutting wheel and cut off the head of the bolt. The order I did the removal was this: 1) Loosen the nut 2) Grind off the head right down to the mount (this is 5-10 minutes) 3) Tighten the nut again to turn the bolt and free up the head end of the bolt 4) The Bolt SHOULD pull through from the nut end. If it doesn't, impact chisel the nut end off as close to the mount as possible and pry the mount opening apart enough to remove the arm with bolt, bushing and sleeve still in it. As far as the sleeve around the bushing, I never removed mine because I had no idea how to get it out and I was able to press the new bushing in (with great difficulty). here is the post that I think is the real deal. If you can find a socket or something of the same circumference as the sleeve but not as big as the arm housing, you should be able to press it right out. Remember to use ALOT of grease when you press the new bushings in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 trying to do mine and all i have to say is fawking nissan, why did they have to make every thing so difficult. Got the front bolt out on the passenger side and got the nut off on the rear and then rounded off the bolt head. On the driver side theres some sort of skid plate on the front mount that I have scrapped one of the two bolts on a rock and it now doesnt have a head to it. Figures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ennacac Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 The replacement bushings from Nissan have sleves on them and you will not be able to get them in unless you press the old ones out first. They are not just rubber. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 I got the ones from 4x4parts.com. I will post a how to later today with more of a step by step for those who have to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 what did you do to hold the plate out of the way thats on the front of the driver side mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I got the line itself to stay under, where the mounting bracket was for most of the time, otherwise i just moved it until i got the wrench on then didnt care if it touched the wrench. Still going to right a how-to, just putting off writing that much... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 So I finally got them changed and all I have to say is GOD i hope i never have to do that again. Took about 4 hours to change two arms. Fawk that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deej Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 So I finally got them changed and all I have to say is GOD i hope i never have to do that again. Took about 4 hours to change two arms. Fawk that Both arms in 4 hours is actually pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNut Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) I had this issue on my 96. Here is what I did. Use a 5' breaker bar on the nuts. 2' breaker bar with a 3' cheater. Drill out the old rubber. Cut the sleeve with a sawzall, twice. Cut the AC polys in half with a band saw or sawzall. Use a 3/4 pvc pipe to hold. grease and pop in. More pix here. http://nissannut.com/projects/Poly_bushings Done 3 or so pathys so far. The track bars never seem to wear out. Hope this helps. Works the same on wd21s also. They just last longer. Edited July 22, 2008 by NissanNut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinthead Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I just had to do this on the new 97 SE I bought. I work in a parts store, and *nobody* made replacement bushings for it, so I went to the local Nissan dealer, where I got the stock bushings for a whole $16.50 each ! I phoned around to a few of the shops that deal with us, and I was being quoted $250 to $300 to do just the uppers ! OUCH ! I thought that was kinda steep, so I called one shop and they did them for $120 cash no bill deal ! Here's the funny part ! So I pick the truck up after they are all done, anticipating to no more p***y-footing around so it doesn't thunk everytime I shift and get on the gas .... and it did it again ! I was like WTF !?!??! I peered under the back and just laughed ! They goofed and did the LOWERS ! I call the guy at the shop and he goes Ooops ! My bad ! So I bought 4 more bushings from the dealer and they did the uppers for free ! BUT .... since they did such a sweet deal, and since it was friday when I took it back for the uppers .... I bought the boys a flat of cold Budweisers as thanks ! I look at it this way ... now they're ALL done and I needn't worry about having to do the lowers down the road ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Thats different, usually the lowers wear out first...my lowers were toast by the time I got the truck but the uppers still have a little bit of life left in them (christmas project) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetnwild Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) So I finally got them changed and all I have to say is GOD i hope i never have to do that again. Took about 4 hours to change two arms. Fawk that The repair shop told my friend that she needed new rear shocks and front struts, 4 - new tires and alignment. Shop estimate $1500.00. I test drove it and it swayed side to side on the freeway, but didn't feel excessively bouncy. I thought that the shocks may not be the problem, but purchased new rear shocks anyway. Removed the rear shocks and they didn't feel bad at all. Researched online and found this website. The recommendation was to change the bushings on the rear bars. Changed out both lower arms (new). (No one had replacement bushing in stock and only one Nissan dealer had new bars only.) The front nut and bolt came out fairly easily, but the rear bolt near the rear end had to be cut out with a grinder and cut-off wheel which took most of the day. The rear bolts had to be replaced, none at dealer so bought grade 8 metric bolts. I guess after 200,000 + miles it's not surprising that the bolts were rusted in. Even spraying PB Blaster and letting it sit over night did help the rear nuts and bolts. A buddy gave me a hand with replacing the top bars and that took about 2 hours. (New bars from dealer) Now, my friend is not afraid to drive it again. No side to side swaying on freeways anymore. I wanted to "thank" the members of this site for the recommendation! Edited September 8, 2008 by Wetnwild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Changed out both lower arms (new). (No one had replacement bushing in stock and only one Nissan dealer had new bars only.) The front nut and bolt came out fairly easily, but the rear bolt near the rear end had to be cut out with a grinder and cut-off wheel which took most of the day. The rear bolts had to be replaced, none at dealer so bought grade 8 metric bolts. I guess after 200,000 + miles it's not surprising that the bolts were rusted in. Even spraying PB Blaster and letting it sit over night did help the rear nuts and bolts. A buddy gave me a hand with replacing the top bars and that took about 2 hours. (New bars from dealer) Now, my friend is not afraid to drive it again. No side to side swaying on freeways anymore. I wanted to "thank" the members of this site for the recommendation! sounds about right for the time it takes to change them. I believe the reason why the dealerships dont sell the bushings is its too much of a PIA for their techs to change, and its too expensive for the customer. So for them they figure that they will start selling only the arms and people would be more willing to have them change the arms (cheaper) than the bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetnwild Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) sounds about right for the time it takes to change them. I believe the reason why the dealerships dont sell the bushings is its too much of a PIA for their techs to change, and its too expensive for the customer. So for them they figure that they will start selling only the arms and people would be more willing to have them change the arms (cheaper) than the bushings. I'd have to agree with you on this. By the time you add up the techs time on the bars with shop rate of $80+/hour, it'd be cheaper, faster (turn around time) and a lot easier for them to just change the entire arm at the dealership. Edited September 7, 2008 by Wetnwild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 yup and from what ive heard its rated at about 2 hours per bushing at shop rate, which where i live is more like $95 an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 The rear bolts had to be replaced, none at dealer so bought grade 8 metric bolts. Be careful with this because metric grade 8.8s are not the same as the standard grade 8 bolts. A metric grade 10.9 is a standard grade 8, and a metric 8.8 is equivalent to a standard grade 5. I can't see it failing but it's something to be aware of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetnwild Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Be careful with this because metric grade 8.8s are not the same as the standard grade 8 bolts. A metric grade 10.9 is a standard grade 8, and a metric 8.8 is equivalent to a standard grade 5. I can't see it failing but it's something to be aware of. Very good point. I'll double check the bolts and get the proper ones from the dealer if need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmpath Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) Can someone explain exactly what worn rear bushings feel like? My 2002 with the AC lift has a horrible shake that starts right a 65 mph and goes away at 70. It isnt in the steering wheel and I have had the tires balanced twice now. I have also noticed a small clunk in the right front when I go over speed bumps but Im not sure if this is the same problem. I just replaced the front wheel bearings, the right upper strut mount and strut bearing. It was just aligned, and I rechecked the bearings to make sure they were tight. After searching the forums I have read it could be a bad strut or the rear bushings, but my KYBs only have about 25k on them. Thanks I just read a post on a bent drive shaft causing this problem, lol it could be anything. Edited January 29, 2009 by nmpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoke Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 ok i looked at the arms that i have on the pathy now and i can physically move the arm with what is on there......now i just received my new parts looked at the bushings......i can move them.... am i supposed to be able to move them like that??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I was reading the posts on replacing the bushings on a R50 ...."Nissan Nut" explains how to replace with Poly Bushings....now my question....Does cutting the bushing in half with a ban saw replace having the bushings pressed in???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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