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Precise1
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HI all, I'm a new...old guy. I have been away from 4x4'ing and pathfinders for 4 years after trying out the quading thing..... but gettting back into it. bought a 94 - 3 days ago and just started stock pilng parts to get started. I have built or helped build nearly 15 of these things to epic proportions. there is very little that I dont know about the 86.5 -95 pathy. feel free to ask me anything. having said that there is always more to learn, looking forward to posting pics, ideas and stuff with you guys. from victoria BC, I own a welding & fabricating out fit here called Heavy Metal Design, ( www.heavymetalwelding.ca) shamless plug there... Nissan Dan

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Good luck with your pathfinder there a good 4x4 hey , I've had mine for Ten years and not many problems with them at all as long as you give them TLC .

 

- A Happy Nissan won't go Missing -

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all the great information. I just purchased my first pathfinder and was researching what people thought about them when I found this forum. I am very thankful that the pathfinder has so many loyal owners. I look forward to working on my new project, getting to know like minded people, and learning as much as I can while doing it. Posting on the internet is new to me so I have a lot to learn there as well.

 

Thanks,

 

John :D

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Hello,

My name is Franklin, I'm from Panama

I just got a 2001 R50 SE, I wanted to modify, for soft off road, and would like to get recommendation from you who have enough experience and knowledge.

 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Pthys. I'm a self taught mechanic with professional skills. I'm good with electrical systems and trouble shooting all problems. I always say that if it ran before I can get it to run again. Aloha, Comcaller.

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I am new to 4 wheeling and just bought a 1992 Pathfinder XE 4x4 with a manual 5 speed and 154,000 miles. It seams to be mechanically sound and every thing works. I am looking forward to 4 wheeling and fixing it up. Eugene, OR

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there! We have a 1987 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE that we had bought several years ago, then gave to my step-son. We recently traded him back for the Pathfinder and MAN ITS FUN!!! It needs a little work but nothing that cant be done! Thanks for all the great info this is GREAT!!

 

~ Vanessa & Greg :lol:

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Hello, everyone. I currently own a 97 pathfinder XE standard trans. 4wd. I love this vehicle as it is very roomy and fits all my families needs. Although I have not had it very long and I need to replace some sensors or the wiring not sure which just yet I am having a Nissan tech test the wiring so that I do not purchase the wrong parts. I might, however, need to post and ask for some advice when it comes to fixing it. I hope that I can get it fixed without a mechanic shop and learn more about my vehicle as I love to work on it and put the love into it while doing it.

Edited by mcqueensara1
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Howdy all

 

New to NPORA. From Seattle hoping to get my stock 97xe a little higher off the ground and start exploring the less seen parts of Washington state soon. Thanks all for the info you have put up on this forum. Pretty awesome stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, I'm Nolan. I am a 100% disabled Veteran. I bought a 2003 pathfinder with 127k miles on it. I figured since I had seen so many pathy's with over 300k miles that I would be set. The interior is like brand new, air and heat work, leather, seat warmers and all that. Not even 100 miles and I had to replace camshaft sensors (Nissan oem). I just had 4 new tires (255 70 16) put on it and set of KYB shocks and struts. The mechanic told me he had to cut the (sway bars?) and buy 2 new ends to get the struts on. I have had the engine flushed and oil changed, tranny flushed with new filter and fluid changed, radiator flushed with new coolant added, and all new belts and hoses. I thought I had everything done but now I am getting a tapping noise (when engine has gone 15 miles or so) from the very front..almost like from the grill. Any explanation for what exactly the mechanic had to cut off and buy 2 new of when installing struts and what the tapping sound from the front would be? I would appreciate very much, a more experienced input. Thank you.

Edited by hcorps
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Probably sway bar end links. They can be a PITA to get off, and cutting is about the only way if the stud starts spinning. They also have to be removed since one end bolt to the strut.

 

Tapping happens only with engine on? Might be the fan shroud rattling, give it a jiggle and make sure its tight.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all! Been a member for a year now when i first got my pathfinder (1998 SE, manual trans, originally from Canada) but this is my first post. I bought the pathy in Texas, but now that I'm out of the Army i moved back to California. The forums here are extremely helpful, but i encountered a problem that I'm sure you guys can help me with. When i bought it the SES light was on but everything was emissions related so i kinda just ignored it :blink:, the codes were: P1444, P0141, and P0335. Now that I am back in California I have to pass smog, but only one time, not yearly like other parts of the state, but anyway for P1114 I cleaned the valve and installed a small fuel filter to keep the carbon pieces from clogging the purge valve again, and for P0141 i replaced both of the downstream o2 sensors. Where my problem lies, and where i need some advise on where to post for help, is the P0335 code, after finally locating where the sensor is supposed to be, I saw that it is completely missing and the wiring harness has been cut off. :rant2: I somehow need to source a heat shield, wiring harness, and bolt. Someone please point me in the right direction, thanks in advanced.

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Hello all! Been a member for a year now when i first got my pathfinder (1998 SE, manual trans, originally from Canada) but this is my first post. I bought the pathy in Texas, but now that I'm out of the Army i moved back to California. The forums here are extremely helpful, but i encountered a problem that I'm sure you guys can help me with. When i bought it the SES light was on but everything was emissions related so i kinda just ignored it :blink:, the codes were: P1444, P0141, and P0335. Now that I am back in California I have to pass smog, but only one time, not yearly like other parts of the state, but anyway for P1114 I cleaned the valve and installed a small fuel filter to keep the carbon pieces from clogging the purge valve again, and for P0141 i replaced both of the downstream o2 sensors. Where my problem lies, and where i need some advise on where to post for help, is the P0335 code, after finally locating where the sensor is supposed to be, I saw that it is completely missing and the wiring harness has been cut off. :rant2: I somehow need to source a heat shield, wiring harness, and bolt. Someone please point me in the right direction, thanks in advanced.

Best bet would probably be from a junkyard.

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  • 3 weeks later...

New Guy here, owner of an 01 LE 4x4 automatic , purchased at Portland Speeds Auto auction. 2310.00 out the yard gates, this included 20 buck auction member fee, 260.00 auction fee on the winning 2000.00 bid, and a 30.00 Oregon trip permit good for 30 days. DROVE HER HOME AND COMMENCED TO WORK. First was a set of tires, Les Schwab had Dean's all terrain in the correct size, 879.00 with siping, balance, valve core, and disposal of 3 out of the 4 tires it came with. 60,000 treadwear warranty, free flat repair , and free rotate and balance every 5k miles. Had the Schwab crew check the low and mushy feeling brake pedal turns out there was a substance added to the master cylinder other than DOT3 brake fluid. Called B&R auto wrecking in Albany Oregon for a master cylinder[20.00], a fifth wheel as the vehicle did not have one when purchased[40.00] and a left rear seatbelt assy.[35.00]. The belt had a tear and wouldn't retract all the time. Picky, I know. B&R was real helpful, had a fellow bring the parts out to the Corolla parts chasing rig and it was bck to Vancouver with the dog and me. They have Yards in Or, Wa, with a good amount of Pathfinder bits. Changed All fluids except for the brand new Antifreeze in the new radiator[score!], used Pennzoil Synthetic dot 3 for the brakes, lucky stroke, all bleeders were free, and it turns out there were nearly new front pads, brake shoes, and rear brake hardware on her. Found the jack and tools [complete] poking around while cleaning some of the carpeting. Good find there. Using Parts Geek online for belts, Power steering rack boots [EMPI], shocks[KYB] and a pair of greaseable Moog u-joints for the rear driveline. Get to use my grease gun again. Belt tensioners were in good shape, the fan idler was fairly new, as was the fan clutch. Went with a set of Iridium NGK plugs, the ones pulled out were def beyond pull date. Platinum NGK with a gap you could walk thru. Noticed immediate engine performance increase with that alone. New fuel filter installed, it didn't look too bad, but what the hell, it is part a tune up, amirite? Glove box was missing one of the plastic pins, had a bolt that fit the hole, and that was fixed. The cabin air filter looked to be a relic of the past decade, had to take the box apart to vacuum out an assortment of pine needles, leaves, and assorted other crap. The old lady doused the new filter with essential oil for a little better smell. Used peppermint I think. Glad I had latex gloves on handling the sodden filthy old filter. Center console had a jacked latch, used some Velcro superglued to each side to restore stability and function to that piece. Top latch was still fine. Costco supplied some heavy duty black floor mats[coupon deal Goodyear brand}, trim to fit , and they will do fine. Wiper blades and a pair of hold open cylinders for the back glass gate from O"Reilly parts in Portland. I used them for the Synthetic differential oil, and the two gallons of Synthetic Valvoline ATF for the trans and xfer case change out. Xfer case drain plug was not budging, so O'reilly sold me a plastic fluid transfer pump to suck the old out. got about 3 qts out, topped up with new. The LSD additive was also put in the rear diff with the new Valvoline gear juice. LSD diff, how cool is that? Used that transfer pump when changing the Power steering juice after the boot renewal. Tie rods were fine, the adjustment to 1/16 to in went real east. Front struts are passable, will put a loaded set on after some driving, the rear shocks are def jacked tho, probably find rusty piston from sitting. Found a left rear o2 sensor no continuity fault when going thru the AAPLUS Wa. State emission test, paid for the waiver and have one on order from Parts geek. The other 3 originally tested bad at O'Rielly, a bottle of "Garuanteed to Pass' wonder fluid cleaned em up, the only one bad is a mechanical fault which no amount of additive will fix. Top of the pistons looked sanitary tho , I marveled at the cleanliness as the long plug change chore was done. Bottle of Lucas Injector Cleaner was also put in with the first fill up since I don't know when. Got plates on the last day of the Oregon trip permit, glad to get full value out of that. Day 32 of ownership has me putting a second coat on the plastic front bumper, going with black Krylon Product after a dent fix and thoro sanding /cleaning. Will actually use a reasonable amount of fasteners on the bumper, it had 3 holding her on when taken off. Picked up a pair of SKF wheel seals to use when repacking[hopefully not replacing] the front wheel bearings. starting on the driver side as the lower driver door hinge need help, and on the way out renew the inner fender liner which went missing in the vehicle's past life. should keep me out of trouble for a bit. thanks to the forum, learned some good tips already on maintenance. This is my story, I am sticking to it. MIKE

 

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Ordered a pair of warn hubs, and a door hinge repair kit from Summit Racing, shipping ground out of Sparks nevada. Shocks went on this afternoon, cannot remember an easier install, couple of hand wrenches while the back wheels were off. hardware looke pristine, old shocks not so much. One finger pressure collased both from the extended position. Nothing like hauling around 20 lbs of worn out pistons attached to the rear axel. Rear u joints tomorrow in the daylight. May even see the sun a little bit. MIKE

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi I am Terri, bought a 95 Nissan Pathfinder a year ago. I live in Farmington, New Mexico and have been going out to the boonies for years without a 4x4, decided to finally get one. The area has clay and sand which when wet is difficult to drive through. It is easy to get stuck, in other words. I was impressed recently with the 4x4 operation in the middle of a muddy road which would have gotten stuck in the cars I drove before. It pulled me out of a mess great.

The vehicle needs work so I am learning on this one, not having taken the time with other vehicles in the past. I will probably have most work done - I am trying to cut down on diagnostic fees and to avoid being given the runaround by learning as much as possible in forums like this.

Current issue April 2017 is people recently redid battery terminals, cable and wiring to battery. I was not happy with the results, paid too much for what they did. There are a bunch of wires that were going to the battery terminal which were trimmed back; they spliced the area into that old coil of wires on the side of the bunch, leaving the old cut ends of the coil exposed, not sure if they should have done that. I have checked for a ground but am not experienced with looking for it, having only read a few things recently on the internet. Vehicle had shown some issues previously but had not stalled for several months. Shortly after the above listed work, its starting was slightly off, felt a little funny, then the meter fuse went out. I would put it in, the car would drive but after it was parked even for a moment, it would go out again. Kept replacing meter fuse until it burned out immediately upon starting the vehicle and now won't start. Was very astonished to discover that others have had identical experiences with that meter fuse.

The background on the vehicle is that the transmission was rebuilt by someone who prefers to work on Fords or American cars. The vehicle stopped leaking transmission fluid, was driving, but was still rough on hills and still had irregularity in the speedometer. The speedometer would sometimes fluctuate and other times seemed to stay put.

The vehicle stalled after a five hour highway trip. Seemed to be edging toward overheating on one particular stretch of hills. As soon as that area was passed, the temperature went back to normal. A wire was found under the hood burned out. I was told by someone who did not work on it but who saw a photo of it that it might have been a starter wire. Shortly after that first repair, a fuse went out and was replaced by a mobile mechanic. I did not find out which fuse at the time. I only this week started reading up on all this stuff so now know which questions to ask. The mechanic who worked on it just told me he fixed some wires and replaced a fuse or two and I did not ask more questions at the time.

It did the same exact thing regarding temperature on a recent trip in the same area.

Later a fuse went out. This time I knew to check the fuse box, checked the fuses, found the meter one out. Replaced it, got the vehicle started, and if finally stopped responding to fuses, which I now know is a common symptom with that meter fuse.

I tried to get an error code reading and only got a 55 code after putting it in III mode. I suspect a problem there because the car doesn't turn over when the key is put in the ignition; the meter fuse blows out immediately and the dashboard lights go out; the headlights still do turn on, however, and the windows roll; also the beeper to the ignition area stays beeping. Absolutely zero connection with ignition. The vehicle does not even begin to turn over.

The things I have learned from reading up on the internet that could be wrong with the vehicle at this point:
It is a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 automatic SE and seems to be a VG30i but I am not sure where exactly to look for that, couldn't find anything under the hood or side of the front driver's side door.
1. poor ground
2. speed sensor wire off back of transmission - cannot tell from what I have read on internet how involved replacing it is on this model
3. instrument panel
4. a burned out wire behind the fuse box
5. catalytic converter/O2 sensor issue - like clogged line in catalytic converter

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey how's it goin eh My name is Neil, my friend's and co workers know me as Kratos or Beast eh. After this project 2002 50 is done you may understand the Beast reference eh. Just bought this unit from my girlfriend with a nfg reverse in the auto and engine that will not run off idle. This BC Canada Fraser Valley rig will see a 6" lift and a manual 5 spd swap.... It will see some 33"x 10's too eh It is going to be my daily and weekend warrior tool. As the F150 5Litre just got 850 bhp twin turbo pain in the ass designation for winter driving lol. I am a long hauler also Interprovincially certified technician and vehicle inspector. Specializing in the Motorcycle industry and all the equipment related. I will not assume any mastery of 4x4 build ups as I have had to rebuild many bike disasters in my career eh also a big proponent of non smog and non electronics. Currently am starting up my fuel oil plant and intend on a diesel power plant swap whether Nissan or other? Dunno if it work the same as in the rigs but my 1972 Hayes Clipper will beat any model with computer controlled fuel and runs as clean as any smog/def system on the road today eh So my Pathy may have that in its future? Fyi my gf is as redneck as they come.She is a wheeler and fishing/ firearms owning outdoors girl. Glad to have found you guys..and ladies here eh Looking forward to tearing it down and picking some grey cells of the members eh Kratos

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