jumper Posted November 13, 2005 Share Posted November 13, 2005 who has bust a tie rod end ? where did it break? on the tie rod thread, on the smooth part of the rod, the joint or the tapered part and thread? the reason i ask is the first day my terrano is street legal i took it for a shake down run on a local coast track. all is fine no loose anything just need to trim more metal on the back wheel arch. second day went back on the same track to go fishing, got 3/4 of the way to the spot i was heading for ,which is a 50min walk over rough ground (*$%£),and was driving on a tiny pebble part of the track at about 25/30km when as i was turning right the truck decided to go left go out had a look and the left outer tie rod end had snapped on the smooth part this meant get a lift off the next truck to pass (5mins) he was good enough to tack me to the end of my road ,about 3.5km from the track, grab the old tie rod ends which should have been in the truck drive back in my other car then with the ends and heavy bits in a bag i walked back the (@£$%*^!) 50mins to the truck fitted the end and when fishing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 13, 2005 Share Posted November 13, 2005 like this? this is somewhat of a common issue especially with lifted trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted November 13, 2005 Author Share Posted November 13, 2005 more like this snapped clean off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 13, 2005 Share Posted November 13, 2005 Something like this? I was supprised to still find this one laying around. I had heaps like this and thought they were all gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder Phil Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 (edited) Just an FYI, there IS a fix for this.... Clicky clicky Edited November 15, 2005 by Pathfinder Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Just an FYI, there IS a fix for this.... Clicky clicky :bow: ah yessss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Just an FYI, there IS a fix for this.... Clicky clicky A stronger Centerlink/Idler/Pitman arms will do nothing for your tie rods and adjusters... no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 I would love to know what you were doing to snap that thing............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 A stronger Centerlink/Idler/Pitman arms will do nothing for your tie rods and adjusters... no? actually it does. l&p cl fixes the angles and stiffens the whole steering. i watched phil do soem crazy stuff with his truck two weeks ago on some CRAZY rocks and even though he lost his muffler the steering took the pounding like a champ. everyone i know that has it loves it and i was going to get it a while back ago but finances made the decision for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 actually it does. l&p cl fixes the angles and stiffens the whole steering. i watched phil do soem crazy stuff with his truck two weeks ago on some CRAZY rocks and even though he lost his muffler the steering took the pounding like a champ. everyone i know that has it loves it and i was going to get it a while back ago but finances made the decision for me. My L&P centerlink didn't change any angles as tie rods are in pretty much the same place as they were. As to price? Dude.. $150 for the CL is well worth it and for Pitman/Idler arm just have somebody weld some gusseting on for ya for a few beers or something (that's what I did) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Hey Luker, isn't the L&P centerlink $250? + $100 core charge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 (edited) 150? i wish it's 250 man. it does change the angles ever so slightly but the main thing is that it does stiffen the whole deal Edited November 15, 2005 by mzxtreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Ahhhaa.. you're right.. it's $250. I dunno why i though it was $150..... gotta make a note to stop drinking hard liquor in the office. -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 (edited) A stronger Centerlink/Idler/Pitman arms will do nothing for your tie rods and adjusters... no? im with F L a stronger centre link means nothing to your tie rods. as for the angles???? the joint on the centre link that bolts to the pitman arm is fixed. no change in angles as far as im concerned. Edited November 15, 2005 by sw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 My L&P centerlink didn't change any angles as tie rods are in pretty much the same place as they were. As to price? Dude.. $150 for the CL is well worth it and for Pitman/Idler arm just have somebody weld some gusseting on for ya for a few beers or something (that's what I did) maybe you should get the whole deal instead of making it yourself, maybe the cl, pa, and ia all work to tegether to change the angle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 (edited) im with F L a stronger centre link means nothing to your tie rods. as for the angles???? the joint on the centre link that bolts to the pitman arm is fixed. no change in angles as far as im concerned. Oh but it does. The way the factory CL works is it has TREs going to it and the joint is ball joint type (basically.) The way the CL attaches to the IA and PA is through another joint (a ball join type again) that is part of the CL itself. (That is the main culprit in the failures of the steering system on Nissan trucks.) L&P eliminates the the CL BJs and you bolt it on to the IA and PA. Now what that does is, when you are riding, the CL never moves "up and down" in a circular motion when the tires encounter the obstacle., (thus the beefed up IA and PA) This also eliminates the stress on the TREs as to the angles it is almost irrelevant anyway because of the above. Basically the angle is finally fixed (as in stable) and there is no more changing angles (wobble (uneven tire wear,) pretzeld TREs) Edited November 15, 2005 by mzxtreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newton Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 This is interesting stuff. So, did Nissan change or beef-up, the steering components on the later models? I ask this, because I have a 1998 Pathy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 doesn't seem to be the case since the Xterras have the same problems and they are marketed to the outdoor croud. not sure about the r50 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 N-Needs I-Improved S-Steering S-System A-Asap N-No? Disclaimer- i know wtf asap means but bear with me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 I would love to know what you were doing to snap that thing............. I was 4wding. And this one. There were other times too but I didn't have a camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newton Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 N-Needs I-Improved S-Steering S-System A-Asap N-No? Disclaimer- i know wtf asap means but bear with me That is just to funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 That is just to funny ^^^^^^^^^ what he said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exodus_68 Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Casey T, they are easy to bend/snap once you lift your truck. It is worth mentioning that it is not necessarily the angle on the tie rod that bothers it so much as the joint it connects to. I find that when the ball joint rotates forward on the centerlink the top of the tie rod can foul on the frame of the truck. This is where most of my problems have been caused given the frame is a whole lot more sturdy than the tie rod you can guess what breaks. And of course i would prefer to break a tie rod than smack a whole in the frame! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 That is the main thing that L&Ps fixes, their design eliminates the flex that a stock CL has on the Pitman and Idler and makes it a rigid connection. So, rather than having the CL and TRE pivoting sending the TRE into the frame, the CL stays still and allows the TRE to flex without hitting the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 The TR would only be hitting the rail because the drag link is stuffed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now