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Skrilla's Exhaust Thread


nige
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yeah slick, that's the same muffler I ended up ordering. I'm glad it's not a real loud p.o.s. I don't want to attract any attention to my truck. I'm taking it in on friday morning, but before I do that, I have to start spraying down the studs with some nut buster or pb blaster stuff. Did you take off your heat shields yourself? I keep shearing the bolt heats off mine pssd oh well, I guess it doesn't matter since they're going in the trash anyhow :D

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yeah slick, that's the same muffler I ended up ordering. I'm glad it's not a real loud p.o.s. I don't want to attract any attention to my truck. I'm taking it in on friday morning, but before I do that, I have to start spraying down the studs with some nut buster or pb blaster stuff. Did you take off your heat shields yourself? I keep shearing the bolt heats off mine  pssd  oh well, I guess it doesn't matter since they're going in the trash anyhow :D

yeah. i installed the headers myself, then slapped the old exhaust pipe back on to drive the 1/2 mile to the exhaust shop where they made the pipe to my specs and installed the HF cat and FM muffler fer $400 -bounce- (cost of cat, pipes and muffler included in that price.. but NOT headers)

Edited by Slick
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2.25" is the optimal size tailpipe for these engines. I planned to go with 2.5" back to the muffler and 2.25" after that, but the installer kinda wanted the challenge of squeezing 2.5" in there just to test himself, so he did it at the same price! I can always shove a restrictor in the tail pipe to boost low end torque...

Read up on exhaust theory man...

 

Backpressure is bad. Exhaust velocity = good.

 

Optimum sized piping helps keeping the exhaust velocity up... there are some good writeups available.

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Read up on exhaust theory man...

 

Backpressure is bad. Exhaust velocity = good.

 

Optimum sized piping helps keeping the exhaust velocity up... there are some good writeups available.

I do, and you're correct.

Excess backpressure is bad, so don't go too small.

But too big kills exhaust velocity, which is also bad.

 

In between is optimal. For a relatively low performance 3.0 L 6 cylinder running at typical RPM's, 2.25 is good. If running at low rpm and want max torque, then 2". If running a mildly tuned 3L at higher RPM (6K and up) 2.5" is optimal for peak horsepower - although the velocity gets pretty low during low rpm driving and torque falls off a bit.

 

All kinds of tradeoffs to consider.... I plan to replace this engine (if it ever dies) with a 3.3L and a slightly hotter set of cams, so the 2.5 will be perfect then for normal use.

 

I love some of the BMW's - they have dual on demand systems. Normal driving, one pipe is active in the muffler. At about 3/4 throttle and 4000 rpm, the second pipe opens inside the muffle, doubling flow. And growls.

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ok, i finally got them installed and they sound pretty good. I have a flowmaster 50, magnaflow cat and the headers on. It has a pretty deep, bassy note to it and a slight rattle at higher rpm's (not sure what that is). There is a noticeable difference in power now too :D I will make a couple sound recordings and take a few pictures of the whole exhaust shortly. I have the crossover pipe clamped right now and it leaks a little bit from there, but it hangs clear from the automatic transmission and a little bit lower than the torsion bars. :aok: It cost quite a bit of money due to the amount of labor involved so beware. I had a lot of frozen studs :angry:

 

will the leak ever go away itself, or is there a non permanent method to stop it?

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i've been thinking of putting thorley's on my 94 xe with an auto trans, but i could find little info on headers for my app. i'll probably get a flowmaster, but i'm seriously considering the dynomax now. also, does anyone know of any good muffler shops around phoenix?

 

i wouldn't go with a down-turn unless you like the noise. i've got dual flowmaster 40s on my 71 nova that feature about a foot of pipe total (6" or so before the mufflers, 6" and a down-turn after), and it's absolutely loud as hell. of course, it's got a slightly warmed-over small-block, but i really noticed a difference when we went to that setup, even though we kept the same mufflers. i can also smell exhaust when stopped, so take that into consideration.

Edited by hookemdevils22
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Hey Skrill, how'd that shop you used work out? Would you recommend them? Let me know as I have a little exhaust work on my list of mods for later next year.

they did a really good job. I dropped in a couple times to check up on them and drop off some manifold studs (nissan sold me the wrong parts) and the guy named dave was busy drilling out my old studs. He was very careful while doing this and he didn't slip up once. They have a nice, clean shop with proper tools and such with a little parts showroom out front. By the sounds of it, he's a mustang and domestic muscle car guy, but he's worked on quite a few vg30's including maximas and quest/villager minivans. He also orders in pretty much any aftermarket part you can think of and he can install everything in the shop. I've bought a few parts from him and he'll always match prices too. I thought the time he spent fixing my truck (14 hours) was quite a while, but he said it was because I had so many broken studs on my heads. At least his labor rate is decent (68/hr) and he knows his stuff about engines. I had him remove my old manifolds and piping, drill and swap out all the old studs and replace them with new ones, weld in a new cat and muffler, transfer the pipe with the O2 sensor onto the new piping and clamp the rest of the stuff up.

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I thought the time he spent fixing my truck (14 hours) was quite a while...his labor rate is decent (68/hr) and he knows his stuff about engines.

Wow, so around $950 labour alone? :eek: I *guess* that is OK for a job well done and the peace of mind given they actually seem to give a damn about what they're doing!

 

 

For that much dough, won't they fix your leaky crossover pipe? :shrug:

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here are a few photos:

 

dscf0018au1.jpg

 

The x-over pipe hangs lower than the t-bars, but not the mounts for the compression/tension rods:

 

 

dscf0020fg9.jpg

 

The muffler:

 

dscf0022cq5.jpg

 

The header:

 

dscf0023yh2.jpg

 

Luker, If you want to use skids with these headers, you'd have to add a couple of spacers between the plate and the frame so it would clear the pipe. If you guys are doing some tame wheeling and i'm not busy, i'll come our with your crew and you can check them out for yourself :cool2:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

hey skinny pedal, i had to have one of the flanges replaced. it was the one that mates the pipe with the o2 sensor to the crossover collector. Rather than taking it back to marken, i took it to the minute muffler by the corner of fairway road and king street by charcoal steakhouse. The guy from marken told me i never needed to replace the old flange when i disagreed with him after the first gasket blew out. When the second one went, those guys wanted to sell me a ball and socket pipe and flange to fix it and allow some flex, but I told him that's not necessary and went to minute ant let them put a new flange on. It works fine now, but still leaks a bit from the crossover pipe slip joint. I'm debating whether or not I want to weld it up. Anyways, minute muffle does a good job if you need some basic exhaust work done. they were reasonable for labor charges too.

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  • 3 months later...

here's a short little video clip. The kinda sucks 'cause it was taken with my cellphone, but i'll do a proper one with my canon sd600 as soon as I get the chance. It's so short she doesn't get out of second gear but you'll get the idea of what it sounds like:

 

Lil' video thanks for hosting it luker and the MM crew

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