Guest kb1jki Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 the '95 manual transmission Pathy SEV6 did not start in the morning. returning to it later, the solenoid did not kick in, the interlock relay clicked with the clutch in or that switch was on, so it's a starter issue. the starter was replaced; all dash lights that normally come on when the vehicle initally starts, or when the key is in the on position but the car isn't running, no longer light up. no gauges work, no juice to alternator! (Houston, we have a problem.) it runs, head lights and turn signals function... any ideas what happened? I think the interlock relay was unplugged, it's possible that something shorted plugging it back in maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93blkpathr Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 The same thing happened to me when a fusible link went near my battery terminal. You may want to check on that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 95path1153 Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 similar thing happened to me. i just replaced my motor from drowning it and a couple of days after i lost all of my gauges. the wiring harness that goes to the tranny and starter melted on my exhuast. check out the whole length of those wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Will it roll/push start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clayman Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 If you have ignition power but no guages... There's a 60A black fusible link down behind your battery right by the tray... which is why it corrodes and falls apart. Cut that P.O.S out and mount a 60A thermal breaker on your fenderwall. Clay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 If not the fusable link, look at the back of the guage cluster, I think there's a voltage regulator on there that can go bad on later years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kb1jki Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 holy crap you folks know these rigs! It's my Dad's truck; we'll see if it's the fusable link behind the battery or a wiring harness! (it does run, headlamps and directionals work -but dash and alternator... Nada!) thank you -all of you!!! Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest k1kas Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 If you have ignition power but no guages...There's a 60A black fusible link down behind your battery right by the tray... which is why it corrodes and falls apart. Cut that P.O.S out and mount a 60A thermal breaker on your fenderwall. Clay All the fusible links appear to be good- I noticed when the key is turned to where the idiot lights would come on there is a buzzing noise from the left drivers side of the dash- Could this be one odf those 3 rleays/breakers mounted just above the normal fuses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest k1kas Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 All the fusible links around the battery (black, green, 4 brn in 1 connector and another brn in a seecond connector) were checked and are good- I have 12 volts on all the normal fuses (The wiring diagram seems to indicate if the link was blown, or the harness was NG I wouldn't have 12v on all the fuses..) Is there a ground from the idiot lights I could have fried? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clayman Posted August 14, 2005 Share Posted August 14, 2005 It may be your accessory relay above the fuses. If you still have signals... try your left and right signal... put your finger on the relay you'll feel it clicking. Then do your hazards... thats a separate relay. That will leave your acessory relay. On mine they're all blue... so I just swapped 2 of them around to check. If that's not it... then your down to the (accessory) and (on) wire off your ignition switch, It powers that relay and makes it turn on, so if your getting a bad signal from from the ignition switch... nothing happens. If it barely lights a test light or makes it flash and act up.. the contacts in the switch are fried or filthy. And like Grim said... there's a chance your rectifier on your cluster is fried. Clusters are pretty cheap from the wrecker. Clay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 im having the same problem and cant figure it out.. only gauge on mine that works is batt gauge speedo tach and the 2nd 1/4 tank fuel gauge. the actual fuel gauge doesnt.. same with all the rest of the gauges.. and no lights either. its confusing.. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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