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How-to: Cleaning your MAF Sensor


88pathoffroad
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I just cleaned my MAF on my Qx4 (R50) using this stuff:

01_Qx4_MAF_05.JPG

 

You see that?! 4-10HP AT the wheels!!! dang - if I do this 5 more times, I'll have added 20-50HP at the wheels! Woot woot!:puterpunch:

 

Anyway - when I pulled the MAF sensor out, this is what I got:

01_Qx4_MAF_02.JPG

 

01_Qx4_MAF_04a.JPG

I believe the metal-plate within the green-box is the "sensor/heat plate"? and the metal-stem in the red-box is the sensor itself.

Due to the nature of the design (how both sensors are surrounded by the plastic body) I didn't want to jam any Q-tips or anything in there, so all I did was follow the directions on the CRC MAF sensor cleaner and gave each sensor (plate and stem) 10 good blasts and let it dry before putting it back into the MAF body...

 

:scratchhead:

But OH CRAP?! which way does the sensor go back into the MAF body?! :headwall: does the stem-opening face the rear or the front?

Well, luckily Nissan designed stuff while thinking about me, and provided me this "air flow direction" arrow in case I :chairfall:

... plus, the sensor only fits back into the MAF body 1 way. But just in case, there's this arrow :rolleyes:

01_Qx4_MAF_03.JPG

 

I drove around and ran some errands, and didn't get a MAF related SES/CEL/MIL notification.

 

Anyway - just thought I'd share. :itsallgood:

Edited by Qx4donald
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  • 2 months later...

Followed your instructions and pics and cleaned my MAF sensor on my 01 Pathfinder this weekend. Also got a new "cotton" air filter as I've read some of the high end air filters contain silicone that can mess up the sensor. Vacumed out the filter box which had a little bit of sand, but suprisingly clean. Had the codes reset at Advanced Auto. Drove on hwy and on local roads this weekend and the SES light has not came back on. Planning to get a new gas cap and hopefully the emissions test will be ok in a couple of weeks. Thanks 88 and all the guys with posts, the info helped!

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  • 3 months later...

Ok, this may not be related to this thread. BUT, I am wondering if any one has had any luck determining what the small screw at the base of the throttle body (rear drivers side) actually does? I saw a post somewhere else on the site and can't find it now.

Has anyone adjusted this? It looks like an idle mixture adjustment screw. I've tried turning it in until it seats and then backed it out 1-1 1/2 turns. I have found nothing about this screw in either the FSM or in Chiltons or Haynes manuals.

(Sorry NO Pics yet)

I have an 89 Pathy SE with a 3.0l VG30i TBI.

 

Please feel free to chime in with any input or comments.

 

I'm hoping this may help with fuel mileage, but more than likely it won't?

 

Thanks again,

 

krmiller07

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Anyone here still have the pics for the 1988 VG30i that was originally posted by 88... I seem to be having little trouble locating it on mine and I think it either needs cleaning or perhaps the sensor died. My truck starts up just fine but after a short length of time at idle, the engine revs drop and it stalls out. If I keep the accelerator down it does not stall. It also smells like it might be running a bit rich. From what I have gathered its potentially the MAF, strange thing is that when I check the ECCS unit under the passenger seat, the red/green light code points to the Crank Angle Sensor as being faulty. Thoughts anyone?

 

Thanks

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  • 1 year later...
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  • 3 years later...

Thanks to 88pathoffroad for this thread, even after 13 years !

 

Had a major issue w/ my 94 SE-V6 VG30E 4WD Pfinder where engine idled rough, black soot/water sputtered out of tail pipe, rich gas smell, and stalling/shutting off completely when revving in park.

 

Thought all this was related to a new timing belt I just installed, but after cleaning the MAFS w/ isopropyl alcohol & Q-tips as per 88pathoffroad, all symptoms magically disappeared & running smooth after timing adjustment.

 

Hats off to ya!

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