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Headlights performing poorly?


88pathoffroad
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Just upgraded my old stock headlamp bulbs to PIAA's. The difference on that alone is astonishing... I'm hoping come summer I'll have the time to do the wiring harness and relay change, but as she's my daily driver (literally) I don't know if I'll have time :(

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Just upgraded my old stock headlamp bulbs to PIAA's. The difference on that alone is astonishing... I'm hoping come summer I'll have the time to do the wiring harness and relay change, but as she's my daily driver (literally) I don't know if I'll have time :(

 

If you plan ahead, gather the give supplies, any take a look around at what's where under your hood, it doesn't take all that long. Maybe a couple hours max if you take your time.

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  • 11 months later...

Can anyone tell me if the diode or resistor type replay works better for the headlight setup, I have both kinds available to me in marine style (water proof). Just want to know if one kind works better then the other for this application. Thanks for your time.

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I was just looking at the stock headlight wiring diagram, for the canadian model, and after thinking about it for a few minutes I realized that it's a bit different than the non DRL setup. I was going to use 2 relays one for the high beams and one for the lows. But I think that it would just make a whole big mess of things if I did that.

 

Tell me if I'm retarded but would it just be best to use 4 relays, one for the high and low on each side? That way I don't have to mess with the damn DRL and get pulled over by the fuzz.

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i am not familiar with the DRL unit but you might be able to make it work with the relays that has 1 extra output pin (usually called 87a). The pin marked 87 gets power when the relay is turned on and the 87a pin gets power when the relay is turned off. Maybe there is a way to hook the 87a pin up to the lights so when the relay is turned off, they still supply power to the lights, but not as much as they do when the relay is turned on.

 

I don't think you would need 4 relays, you could probably get away with using 2. I am thinking about doing this myself, i'll check the FSM and see how the DRL module works.

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Well my wiring at the sockets has obviously been messed with by the looked of things compared to the FSM. Btw you can get the 5 wire (with 87a) relays at princess auto for 5 dollars each.

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Well my wiring at the sockets has obviously been messed with by the looked of things compared to the FSM. Btw you can get the 5 wire (with 87a) relays at princess auto for 5 dollars each.

 

I think a little more dependalbe choice would be the hella double realy which can be found on summitracing. I used one side for low-beam and the other for Hi-beam. works great and is designed for use with HIG output ligthing systems.

 

summit part#

HLA-003588001

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I plan on doing this in the near future.

 

Here is a comparison to a DOT sealed beam lamp. and an E-spec H4 housing made by "carello"

 

Clearly, the E spec one is on the left, and the USDM DOT one is on the right. You can see the beam is more spread, but also has that crisp cut-off line. If I can find the parts at pull-a-part I want to do the hardbody grill/headlamp swap so I can use my espec H4 housings that I kept from my old supra. If I had taken that pic when it was darker out you'd be able to see the light pollution above AND below the DOT light, but nothing above the e-spec one.

 

DSC00528.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone have some pictures of how they install the relays? I want to do this on my gal, but I'm not really sure how/where to put the realy - are there extra slots anywhere to use, or do you just build a holder for them?

 

Also, I'm assuming the obvious - cover the exposed ends of wire and all that... but do I need to run from the Alternator, or should I just run from the Battery feed? I figure if I run from battery, I'll have power even if the engine is shut off, correct?

Edited by Kittamaru
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You can screw them into the fenderwell or just about any place you have room to mount them. Relays come with and without a mounting tab extending from the top. just as to see them t the parts store.

 

Some come with wiring diagrams, but if you get some without, just do a web search for "12V relay wiring" or "pinout". Or something to that effect, and you will find lots of info , including pics, of how to do it :aok:

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Oh, aighty :) I had taken one of my existing relays out to look at it and was a little confused - was wondering how I wired up the prongs and what I did with em after that. Should have figured that it wouldn't just come like that :)

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  • 1 month later...

Oh, aighty :) I had taken one of my existing relays out to look at it and was a little confused - was wondering how I wired up the prongs and what I did with em after that. Should have figured that it wouldn't just come like that :)

 

 

i plan on doing this and posting a how to..pix and costs.. give me a week or 2

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am in the process of doing this as well...just scored my relays tonight at the part time job, (we hadn't had any in stock in over a month.)

 

Also picked up some high temp 9004/9007 sockets, just need to replenish my split loom supply, and get some more wire.

 

Anybody swapped their 9004's for 9007's? They are identical with the exception of the 07 is a 55/65 watt unit where the 04 is a 55/60 watt.

 

The other night, in the middle of the sticks fishing with my brother in law, I had major issues seeing with the factory setup...and again 88 comes to the rescue.

 

Hope to have this knocked out tomorrow night...

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9007's have the filiment in 90* from the 9004. not sure that will work out for you.

My guess is it will make your brights shift to one side instead of upward.

also tho they otherwise look idnentical I could not get my 9004 in my doge 9007 when I needed a quick change teporary.(both lights went out )

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Ahhh...I guess deep down I knew they wouldnt work...lol

 

It was worth a shot...

 

Any recommendations for a replacement 9004 with more wattage?

 

Almost have everything I need to do the headlight harness/relay setup.

 

Would like to replace the bulbs out as well...

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Okay made a new harness and installed it...made a huge difference.

 

I also picked up a premium reman 90 amp maxima alternator, because my use far exceeds the factory 70 amps...

 

The electrical spaghetti has got to be fixed as well...its makin my OCD go nuts.

 

Thanks for the info BTW

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PIAA x-treme white are pretty decent. Last time I bought them direct from the PIAA website but here's the catch, @ the time I bought 2 single packs for $16 each($32 total) instead of the twin pack for $80. Same bulbs but less than half the price.

 

I have also used the dirt cheap 80/100w found on autolumination.com your not paying for a name and they last about average. Acutally I have only been using these since wireing, housing and relay upgrade. So ya they seem the brightest becuase I have not seen any other bulbs in this setup yet lol. Maybe I'll get another set of PIAA and find out...

 

Every time I got sylvania silverstars or silverstar ultra's they would go in a very short time but that may have been an electical issue back then.

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PIAA x-treme white are pretty decent. Last time I bought them direct from the PIAA website but here's the catch, @ the time I bought 2 single packs for $16 each($32 total) instead of the twin pack for $80. Same bulbs but less than half the price.

 

 

Here you go same deal ajusted for inflation.

http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/9004+Xtreme+White+Plus/part_number=19014/353.0.1.1.15834.0.0.0.0?

$18.75ea ($37.50) vs $93.85

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Daggum inflation! LOL

 

You like the knockoffs? I dont mind using em at all...

 

I have used the sylvania junk, and I do not see how they can claim the performance gains...they just dont do what they say...

 

I feel terrible when someone buys a set from AZ, I always tell them the truth, and my managers get angry...

 

Oh well...if someone would have told me that, I would not have bought the ones that now reside in my tool box.

 

I assume the PIAA's get blazing hot...factory housings will probably not handle the heat?

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actually they stay about average.

their label has 2 figures on it, the lower figure is the actual wattage(heat byproduct) and the higher figure is the output equivelant.

Its kinda like when you buy a 13watt flourecent bulb to replace your 60watt incondesant in your desk lamp.

 

PIAA makes amazing products, durable, functional but not the most affordable lol because you are also paying for a name.

 

now my cheapo autolumination bulbs 80/100 are very hot.

Edited by MY1PATH
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Gotta be honest, the improvement the harness itself made in the light output was more than I expected. I understand resistance and electrical theory etc, but even still I was and am amazed. Pretty cool, I will just leave my standard bulbs in for now...and focus on things that NEED help...like the REST of the truck!! LOL

Edited by tmoore4512
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