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Electric fan swap?


98dreamer
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I've heard of people doing it. No drag until you need it, unlike the clutch fan. You can turn it off for water crossings, so that's cool, if that's a thing you do. But it's got more parts to fail, and if the fan motor itself dies, you can't bodge it to limp home like you can with a clutch fan. It's an additional load on the alternator. I've read they struggle to move as much air as the clutch fan. 

 

I've considered an e-fan for mine. It would be nice to free up a little power and get rid of the vacuum cleaner howl at high revs when the clutch is locked up. But the fan clutch is there already, and it's reliable. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I tried it. It worked but there was always some bull@!*% to fiddle with. Not as reliable as a factory efan car for sure. The mechanical fan moves more air than a electric will anyways. I went back to the mechanical one after a few months.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been running Efans for a few months now and have learned quite a lot. I am running Dual 10" fans from amazon part# RAF-10-RD+FMK-X2 just wired to a switched ignition signal. I did run the Hayden fan controller but that died after 2 months. part# 3651. I made my own fan shroud out of 1x1 aluminum angle and some checkerplate i had lying around. With just the fans and shroud with no special ducting (this matters) around the sides to force the air through the rad.

 

My rad temps in the B.C summers were around the 200F mark on the highway cruising 100km/hr through mountains, while around town it would sit around the 190F mark. Now with the ducting (Foam tape, door scrape seal is what I used) it likes to jump between 186-188 cruising, and highway/hills it likes to sit at 194F, sometimes 200 if its real hot or I'm pushing it. I have noticed an increased performance of the AC, but with out the ducting the temp gauge will rise and the AC will start to go warm. (not sure what temp, but about 3/4) unless you start crawling. Adding the seal makes a difference for sure. 

 

Gas milage is hard to say though, but sometimes ill get 450+ KM out of a tank, just town driving with hills. I don't do much highway driving, and havnt had the chance to test the difference. Though I'm confident it will be better. 

 

Performance :). Having the Manual trans lets me feel a lot more than the autos IMO. The response is great, the low end power isnt changed much, but the higher end RPMs feel less held back and I use less throttle to hold 60km/hr. (Before around 7-10%, now 4-6% according to bluedriver) Usually I would never pass, as in the mountains it just feels way to under powered to do anything with out feeling like youre pushing it too hard. Now dropping into 3rd and hammering down feels way more impresive, and merging makes me a little more confident. I do how ever have a PCV delete, which really only made my 2000K and lower RPM more responsive. it would either idle or sit at 2k before.

 

I myself am quite happy with these result as I get a boat loads of room to work in the engine bay, and changing a belt takes no more than 5 minutes. 

Edited by Strato_54
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