Front Wheel Play

[cham]

So I made a post back in early winter trying to understand what was going on with my hub assembly and why I had play, which bearings I should safely go with.  I ended up replacing my wheel bearings and hub races (and also rotors and pads at that).  Unfortunately since doing so I've been having to over-torque past spec the preload nut to take up excess play pretty much exclusively at 12 and 6 o'clock on both front wheels.  Well its still not gone so now inevitably this begs the question is it actually my ball joints causing play and not the bearings because it only really shows up at 12 and 6 o'clock on the wheels.  The other issue is that even after replacing the rotors, pads, and rear brake drum assembly including the physical drums, I still get brake pulsation and shimmy.  The even weirder part is it goes away and comes back.  There will be drives where I get next to no pulsation and dare I say the braking feels good, and other times where I want to ditch the car off a cliff because its so annoying and jarring.  

 

Now in my eyes there are 2 possibilities: 1 - The wheel bearings or races are bad again and require excessive torque to seat them correctly.  The play only shows up at 12 and 6 o'clock because the races are warped or the inner hub walls are warped and are not perfectly concentric to the axle (I know, definitely a rare case).  Obviously a loose wheel bearing causes brake pulsation because of the play allowed in the wheel;  2 - Instead, the ball joint is bad causing the wheel play at 12 and 6 o'clock, meanwhile my front calipers are sticking, causing the intermittent grabbing I feel which then causes the brake pulsation.  Either the caliper slide pins (which have plenty of fresh new grease) aren't doing their job, or the pistons are moving too slow and don't want to re-tract causing grabbing.  I say this because a bad ball joint alone would not cause brake pulsation.  Also with the pulsation randomly becoming better and randomly becoming worse, it has to be either an alignment issue (i.e. axle to hub interface) or the brake caliper assembly in some way.  

 

Currently, my best direction is to isolate the play issue and find whether the play is coming from the ball joints or bearings for both front wheels.  Tie rods are perfect I do know that, and most people know the R50s only have 1 ball-joint, the lowers.  Struts were replaced this past winter with new upper assembly parts so that's running perfect.  Control arms are original along with the bushings so probably need replacing but doesn't seem dire.  Everything I replace or take apart I always retorque to spec, that is of course besides the bearing preload (but still not at all much more than recommended spec).

 

My main question starts with the issue of isolating the problem.  In theory, if the wheel bearings are the culprit for play, wouldn't the play be removed if someone steps on the brake pedal.  In other words, if I have someone step on the brake pedal and I try to induce play into the wheel, if its gone, the wheel bearings or hub/axle interface is the issue; if the play continues at 12 and 6 o'clock even when the brake pedal is applied, its more than likely the ball joint.  I guess its also possible to be the control arm bushings but less likely.  If someone could confirm this is a viable way of isolating the issue I would be very thankful.  My thinking is that since the caliper is technically attached to the suspension control arm assembly, when applied it should hold the hub assembly still so that any post-play means it has to be suspension induced.  Which you can then deduce to be ball joint because the play is at 12 and 6 o'clock.  Finally I should mention the ball joints visibly look fine.  Very very minor boot cracking but so minor I had to get my face right on it to even see the cracks. Let me know if I'm super far off in my logic, thanks.

 

Edited May 12, 2021 by cham

[Fr8Train]

The only movement at 12 and 6 o'clock is pointing to mounting issue for me, if it were a wheel bearing you would have wobble all the way around the clock.

 

Best way to check the ball joints (in my experience) is:

• jack her up, and put on stands.
• Take wheel off
• Remove hub (freewheeling or factory lock hub)
• Remove CV circlip
• Undo and remove the 2x strut bolts that attach the hub to the strut base
• Slip CV drive shaft out of hub

Now once that is done only the outer tie rod and ball joint are the only things attaching the hub to the vehicle, wobble and wriggle hub around, you will pretty soon know if the ball joint is buggered, there will be excessive play and slop. If it is tight and no lateral or medial movement or slop, it is all good.

 

You may be able to jack it up and wobble/pry around the ball joint with weight off the strut assy and lower control arm, but the tension from the strut assy may still hold pressure against the ball joint.

 

Lower control arm bushes could also be culprit, check those too.

 

Like I said this is just from my experience and how I would tackle the job, and is how I checked my ball joints while changing my struts and CV's.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited May 12, 2021 by Fr8Train