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Rack and pinion leak


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I just replaced my rack and pinion and it's leaking out of the lines that connect on top the in/out lines it looks like it's coming from the washers I can't figure out why it's doing this. 2000 pathfinder

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I just replaced my rack and pinion and it's leaking out of the lines that connect on top the in/out lines it looks like it's coming from the washers I can't figure out why it's doing this. 2000 pathfinder

Did you replace the washers when you swapped the rack? Usually you should.

What rack did you go with?


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I just replaced my rack and pinion and it's leaking out of the lines that connect on top the in/out lines it looks like it's coming from the washers I can't figure out why it's doing this. 2000 pathfinder

Did you replace the washers when you swapped the rack? Usually you should.

What rack did you go with?


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I just replaced my rack and pinion and it's leaking out of the lines that connect on top the in/out lines it looks like it's coming from the washers I can't figure out why it's doing this. 2000 pathfinder

Did you replace the washers when you swapped the rack? Usually you should.

What rack did you go with?


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2 hours ago, AR97Pathfinder said:


Did you replace the washers when you swapped the rack? Usually you should.

What rack did you go with?


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I did not replace them I went with the Detroit axle rack

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I did not replace them I went with the Detroit axle rack

That may very well be your problem there. Those crush washers, you usually replace them once they are opened. Kind of like the crush washer on the oil pan drain bolt.

 

Nissan has them and they are relatively cheap. I’m changing my rack too when it warms up out, and they were around 4 bucks a piece For OEM Nissan. You should only need 4 of them.

 

How’s the Detroit axle rack?

 

I’ll probably be going with ACDelco.

 

 

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You can often get away with re-using copper washers, but, yeah, it's not ideal. They deform a little each time you tighten the banjo bolt on them and there's a limit to how many times they'll do that before the copper work-hardens or gets too thin. I doubt the steering banjo nuts have been tightened enough times to kill the washers, so if you don't have replacements ready to go, I would check that the washers and the surfaces they seal against are clean (no chunks of sand or dirt holding one of them cockeyed), maybe clean up the washers on a flat piece of fine sandpaper if it looks like they need it, and see if that does it. If not, or if the washers are obviously hashed when you get them out (dents/cracked/squished), cut your losses and order new washers. I bought an assortment of metric washers online a while back when I couldn't get them locally.

If you're not sure which line is leaking, don't feel around for it with the engine running. High pressure hydraulic leaks can mess you up.

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