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What else should I fix while pulling transfer case


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I’m going to pull the transfer case to replace the three seals on it. The front seal and the other two where the driveshafts connect. I am also going to replace while I’m at it the rear transmission seal, transmission rear mount and all 4 u-joints.

 

Now are there two transmission mounts at the front of the transmission? Or just one in the rear for transmission and two engine mounts up front?

 

Should I have them pull transmission one time and replace the RMS? Would they be able to access the engine mounts better once transmission is pulled or do they still have to remove the front diff?

 

I’d like to know because I’m curious as whether it is worth it to pull the transmission? My main goal towards having them pull the transmission additionally to other repairs would be for the RMS and if engine mounts can be changed also.

 

The oil leak is odd. When I park the vehicle and shut it off, I get a couple drops from where the transmission and engine meet. There is also some oil on the sides of the lowest part. Pic below of side.

 

But a RMS leaks when engine on mainly no? This is what also makes me uncertain. What if it’s not the RMS leaking.

47499f5b9b5a09d95634ad245263e241.jpg

 

 

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Bad valve cover gaskets can run down the back of the engine and look like the rear main is going. Not to say it isn't the RMS, just that I'd check the valve covers first. A couple drops of oil after you park it makes sense if something's leaking--it takes time for the oil that's leaked out while the engine was running to run down the outside and drip off.

 

There's always the question of how much you want to do "while I'm in there." It's easy to go down a rabbit hole, but at the same time you don't want to have to repeat half the work later to get to the thing you didn't replace while you had it apart before. If the leak bothers you and the money's not an issue, go for it.

 

The RMS in mine leaks a little, but not enough that I want to drop the transmission. That's not happening until the engine or trans gives me a reason to pull it apart.

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Bad valve cover gaskets can run down the back of the engine and look like the rear main is going. Not to say it isn't the RMS, just that I'd check the valve covers first. A couple drops of oil after you park it makes sense if something's leaking--it takes time for the oil that's leaked out while the engine was running to run down the outside and drip off.
 
There's always the question of how much you want to do "while I'm in there." It's easy to go down a rabbit hole, but at the same time you don't want to have to repeat half the work later to get to the thing you didn't replace while you had it apart before. If the leak bothers you and the money's not an issue, go for it.
 
The RMS in mine leaks a little, but not enough that I want to drop the transmission. That's not happening until the engine or trans gives me a reason to pull it apart.

Yeah I hear you.

The leak isn’t not bad really and to change all the transfer case seals, u joints, and rear transmission mount doesn’t require transmission removal.

That being said I’ll leave the leak alone for now to avoid pulling the transmission, front diff, etc. off. Will try to do some more investigating on my own before forking out money based off guessing what it could be.

What brand U-joints do you or anyone else recommend? I have the auto tranny 4x4. Original Nissans are coming up over 400 for all four. Any great reliable aftermarket ones?


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Having the t-case down is the perfect time to put some crawler gears in.  Absolutely, yes.

 

The engine+transmission+t-case assembly relies on 3 mounts total; 2 motor, 1 trans, so the one in question is right before the t-case.  Is the t-case leaking or is this just maintenance?  If you're having a shop do it, I imagine any additional work (pulling the transmission) is going to quickly inflate labor costs unfortunately.  However, I hear it's easier to pull the transmission and t-case down together if you're to do any work.  @TowndawgR50 or @02_Pathy can confirm or deny that since they've done the work.  Not sure if the VG33 has a rear crossover coolant pipe or thermostat, but if it does, that's surely a while-you're-at-it gasket job.

 

Unfortunately, having the transmission down won't improve any access to the motor mounts.  The diff bump just blocks too much of the driver's side mount.  The passenger side is slightly improved, but still...it's a tight space to work in, even when the diff is down.

 

I can't help much with the leak, though.  I'm in a similar situation with some little trickle leak there.

 

 

Edited by hawairish
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Having the t-case down is the perfect time to put some crawler gears in.  Absolutely, yes.
 
The engine+transmission+t-case assembly relies on 3 mounts total; 2 motor, 1 trans, so the one in question is right before the t-case.  Is the t-case leaking or is this just maintenance?  If you're having a shop do it, I imagine any additional work (pulling the transmission) is going to quickly inflate labor costs unfortunately.  However, I hear it's easier to pull the transmission and t-case down together if you're to do any work.  [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] or [mention=39493]02_Pathy[/mention] can confirm or deny that since they've done the work.  Not sure if the VG33 has a rear crossover coolant pipe or thermostat, but if it does, that's surely a while-you're-at-it gasket job.
 
Unfortunately, having the transmission down won't improve any access to the motor mounts.  The diff bump just blocks too much of the driver's side mount.  The passenger side is slightly improved, but still...it's a tight space to work in, even when the diff is down.
 
I can't help much with the leak, though.  I'm in a similar situation with some little trickle leak there.
 
 

Yeah it wouldn’t help the engine mount job much by pulling the transmission. I forgot we talked about those mounts in another thread.

But I have a leak between the transfer case and transmission. So I’m having a shop I know pull the case and replace all the seals. The seal at the back of transmission, the shaft seal at the front of t-case, the seal on the t-case for both driveshafts, and the shift seal. While driveshafts are off I’m replacing all 4 u-joints with greaseable spicers. And also replacing the transmission mount at the back.

About those u-joints. The original ones I have are with inside snap rings. Can u-joints with outer snap rings be compatible with my driveshaft?

I believe I got a good price. 400 bucks for the labor. I’m supplying the seals as I want to use original Nissan seals.

Ive decided not the pull the transmission. Just having the case removed for this job. I’m most certain it’s not the rear main seal anyways. I get a few drops only after shutting off engine and I see oil higher up around the pan. Going to investigate more and see where exactly it’s coming from. Correct me if I’m wrong but RMS tend to leak while engine is running. Could be driver side valve cover like previously mentioned. It’s by no means a drastic leak. Maybe I end up topping up the oil a bit between changes but not going to wildly pull things apart. Like you said labor costs will quickly inflate.


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If you have the inside snap rings on the u-joints, you gotta stick with inners.  The outer joints are a different size anyway, and the yokes lack the ring-lands for outers.

 

$400 for that work sounds like a very good deal.

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