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missionstreet

Rear Death Sway -- Replaced Arms still Sways 😔😔

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On my 98. So I got moog replacement upper rear arms and pressed in new bushings for the rear lower arms. Did torque with wheels on ground, full tank of gas, truck empty.

 

Of course the sway is nothing like it was before (couldn't go over 45~50).

 

Well I still have death sway intermittently sometimes around 45 and 60 and in-between. Not as bad but still can build up like a harmonic enough to scare a woman.

 

Also have new shocks and sway bar links and ends. Thinking maybe coils next?

 

Someone save me from throwing too many parts at it.

 

Thanks!

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Check rear pan hard rod bushings and front lower control arm bushings. How's your tire wear and alignment?

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I cant see any wear or play in rear pan hard rod, maybe I need to remove it to see for sure?

 

I didn't think front control arm bushings could contribute to rear sway? I'm not getting sway up front. Tires have some outer wear but only up front. Alignment is good.

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By "rear sway" I assume that you mean that you feel a steering movement caused by the rear axle shifting under certain throttle positions while driving in straight line. If you mean that the rear end tends to sway or lean more than you desire during cornering maneuvers, it does seem like you covered the bases, except for replacing the springs, which I assume are stock. If you are still experiencing a steering motion after overhauling the rear suspension, I would suggest investigating the front suspension components, such as lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and ball joints. What shocks did you install?

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I'm referring to the infamous "roll over" sway that was supposedly caused by rear control arm bushings. The rear starts to sway uncontrollably at highway speeds.

 

I put on the OEspectrum by monroe in the rear.

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The "roll over" sway is generally caused by bad lower control arm bushings. The upper links do less to locate the axle forward/aft, they primarily keep the axle from "wrapping" during acceleration or braking. The lower links do more to keep both sides of the axle in the same relative position beneath the car. If you're convinced the front suspension is OK, I would revisit the condition of the bushings in the rear lower links. It is possible that they're bad or were damaged during installation. You can check to see if the rear axle moves fore/aft when applying throttle by chocking the front wheels and checking for movement of the lower links at either end of the mounts when an assistant shifts the transmission into R or D and applies light throttle. You can also check to see if the tires move fore/aft when this happens. If either the left or right wheel moves fore/aft when throttle is applied, the bushings are bad. I recommend installing polyurethane bushings as the best countermeasure to deter the death wobble.

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Thank for that response. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around how the front suspension can affect the rear sway.

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10 hours ago, missionstreet said:

Thank for that response. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around how the front suspension can affect the rear sway.

If something in front is worn or loose, it’ll potentially induce a steering movement  without your input. This could result in slight side to side body roll that feels the same as rear sway. 

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I notice you live in the snow belt.

I once had this problem with a car and when I described it to people they said I was dumb.   But it turns out the next owner had the body fall off the frame at a speed bump.

Check for some structural components being rusted through.

 

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Thanks for that - Any suggested points of interest? 

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Have someone push the body sideways while you watch the panhard rod bushings. The upper and lower links locate the axle front to back, the panhard controls side to side. If those bushings are roached (and they're the same age and presumably the same type of rubber as the link bushings that were roached), I would expect some side to side action. I would also inspect the panhard bracket, not that I've ever heard of one of those failing.

 

The R50 is unibody, so the body can't really fall off, but they are known for rotting out in the front strut towers. There was a whole recall about that where Nissan glued crap over the rust holes and told people they'd fixed it. Worth taking a look at.

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Yes I had that recall done. Dealer Seemed reluctant to take my 23 year old truck in for free body work. They used plates and did some kind of bedliner on the whole area both side front fender wells.

 

Paperwork said it was ~700 total in the body shop.

Edited by missionstreet

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