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*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST

08 Armada no radio, heat controls, no codes


Strato_54
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My mom has an 08 Armada SE and the screen has stopped working, the heater and AC controls have stopped working, but the air is still on, it just cant be changed. the rear heat controls do work though how ever and can be changed. its only the front where the heat controls are frozen and the radio doesnt even show the nissan logo when the key is turned on. i tried to pull codes from my BlueDriver OBD2 reader and nothing came up at all. it did have codes for the front right TMPS sensor being bad which i know has been bad for a really long time now. ill check it again to see if that code came back, but that telling me theres a code leads me to believe the BCM is still working. i tried checking a couple fuses and found nothing unless i missed one that happened to be bad. we have been having battery troubles where i just kinda dies. it hasnt happened often, but the other day my mom went to pick up my brother from school, turn off the truck and went inside for a moment and came out with a dead battery. hasnt died since but could it be related? when its running i only get 13.3 V which seems low to me since my pathfinder charges around 13.8-14.2, although my 6.0 PSD charges at 13.6 or 13.7 so that 13.3 feels kind of normal but probably not. any and all info is helpful. Thanks. 

Edited by Strato_54
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The blower still running would tell me something if I knew what controlled it! As usual I'd start with the EL section of the service manual, which is available from Nicoclub. If you can find the pinout for the electrical plug on the head unit/whatever the box with the screen on the front is called, you could pull it out and check for power and ground at the plug. (I would expect it to have a constant +, an ignition-switched +, and a ground, like a stereo head unit, plus probably canbus wires linking it to the BCM and whatever else.) If it's not getting power, chase that. If it's getting power but it's not lighting up, that suggests the head unit itself has the issue.

 

The random battery issue is interesting. Terminals clean and tight? 13.3 does seem a little low, but some newer stuff regulates the alty externally and can turn the charge voltage up or down as it pleases. I have no idea if the Armada has one of these "smart" alts, but, again, FSM FTW.

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4 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

The blower still running would tell me something if I knew what controlled it! As usual I'd start with the EL section of the service manual, which is available from Nicoclub. If you can find the pinout for the electrical plug on the head unit/whatever the box with the screen on the front is called, you could pull it out and check for power and ground at the plug. (I would expect it to have a constant +, an ignition-switched +, and a ground, like a stereo head unit, plus probably canbus wires linking it to the BCM and whatever else.) If it's not getting power, chase that. If it's getting power but it's not lighting up, that suggests the head unit itself has the issue.

 

The random battery issue is interesting. Terminals clean and tight? 13.3 does seem a little low, but some newer stuff regulates the alty externally and can turn the charge voltage up or down as it pleases. I have no idea if the Armada has one of these "smart" alts, but, again, FSM FTW.

Ok I’ll look through the service manual later when I get home. As for the terminals they are clean and are very tight. I have noticed that the in dash voltage gauge is a bit lower then it normally is and the windows are definitely slower then I remember now having driven the car again for the first time in quite a while. Granted the battery is quite old and looking through a couple of forums when these have a battery problem, not so much alty I guess they do really weird stuff which it has done like ABS SLIP and VDC lights flashing as I’m scanning for codes then the 4X4 dial not working then all the sudden working. I might try and swap my pathys brand new battery just to see what happens when I fire it. 

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So I just checked all the fuses again that are under the glove box, and nothing. i turned the key on and the front heat stopped working but when i tried pressing the rear defrost it looked like it was coming on but the indicator wasnt turning on. i could see the lights dim when i turned it on but no console indicator. i did how ever plug in my cig lighter USB and voltage thing to see what it sat at, key off 12.1 volts, ket set to ON was around 11.3 11.2 not running. to me that seems a bit low for just key on, but i know it has to power all the modules and the fuel pump. i have a strong feeling this is battery related and tomorrow im going to pull the battery and swap either my pathfinders battery, or one of the 2 in my 6leaker since its our work truck and is just sitting at our shop in the cold with a battery maintainer.

 

EDIT: if swapping the battery changes nothing then ill rip apart the dash and start looking at the wiring schematics.

Edited by Strato_54
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ok well i didnt swap the battery but i did stick a battery on the truck and no change. then i pulled the battery charger off and it was running at 14.2 for a bit then climbed down to around 13.8 which to me is still very normal. I can confirm how ever that the rear defrost is turning on as i can see the voltage drop and the lights dim each time, still no indicator, and AC does not kick on by the looks of it either. but then i turned it off and let it sit for a second and after about 30 seconds it sat around 12.3 12.2. but i had my USB voltage meter in the always on socket. when i cranked the truck again with no charger or anything the voltage dropped down to 9.0, i let it run for a few more minutes then killed it. once i let it sit with no key in the battery went back down to 12.2, i fired it again and cranked at 9.7 volts. to me cranking should be ATLEAST 10.2 MINUMUM. not too sure what the pathfinder cranks at since the socket turns off when i crank it, but i would like to say its no where near 9 volts, and my 6.0 only cranks at 10.5 and thats after the glowplugs finished firing, pumps, FICM and all. With no change, even though i didnt pull the battery i might just rip apart the dash next week since this think needs some work. although the 6.0 batteries are the same CCA as this one (890 CCA) so maybe when i bring it up there ill try one of those, but other wise its wiring diagram time...

Edited by Strato_54
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and the solution is spitting on it! i went down to the garage to check fuses again for the 3rd time and still nothing. i found the 20A fuse in the passenger side engine bay box and i tested that one with a tester and volt meter with no sign of failure. i tried pulling the fuses in and out a bunch of times to try and clean the connection and no result. so i licked the pins on the fuses pulled them in and out a few times with some sparked coming from the pins and low and behold it fixed the problem. though i still have a problem with the battery dying and being at a really low charge as the on dash voltage gauge was sitting around 10 volts so i think it still needs a battery. lesson here is even if you check something more then twice, it still could be the problem.

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