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R51 rear bearings replacement issues at cv joint


jarodt
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Hi guys, I wanted to change my rear bearings. I did the usual recommended path, loosen wheel nuts, axle nut, lifted the car, took wheel off, brakes off, disc rotor off, wheel nut off.

But then, when i wanted to take the 4 bolts off from the back of the bearing hub. The CV joint is so big that no socket nor wrench goes over the 4 bolts.

Now I am devastated, I dont want to take too much off then necessary. I just had a wheel alignment so I wouldnt want to do anything on the bolts there. I guess I have to somehow get the axle(cv joint) out of the hub from the rear side. A friend suggested that i might want to undo the diff and lower it to try to get the axle out to reach the bolts. But by the layout of the axle I don't think that will work, as the axle goes up in an angle and when the diff is lowered it would rather push the axle further outwards of the car.

 

Yeah to make it short, any idea how to replace the bearings? I cant believe these are the original joints, they must be aftermarket. Otherwise its such a bad design... I feel a bit reminded of the oil filter change...(similar great design on that model :D ) I'll try to get a lil video/photo up.

 

https://easyupload.io/m/1ew1f7

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To allow the suspension trawl, the cv axle does have a slight adjustment in length. The tri ball at the end sits in a cup that gives it roughly 1.75 to 3.5 inches of movement. Allowing the axle to become slightly longer and shorter. Anywhosier, pull the axle nut, free it up inside the hub so it will slide back and forth, and use a pickle fork to pry on the CV while getting at the bolt head with a shallow socket. I have a super shallow set of 3/8 and 1/2 drives that come with super shallow sockets. They get right in there no problem I'm sure. Got right in behind the brake shoes on a 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0T to break the hub assembly bolts loose and then I just fingered them out, and back in. I also have a set of offset box end wrenches that I used an angle grinder to cut off two of the 6 sides. Kind of like a flare nut wrench for hard-lines but with an additional side removed. You're in Australia tho right? Unfortunately I don't think AutoZone is in Australia otherwise I'd say buy the size duralast box end you need and take an angle grinder to them, duralast wrenches are guaranteed for life and I have literally used the battery of my pathy, and a set of jumper cables to weld two spanner wrenches together. So I could reach a bell housing bolt without any kind of jack, and only a couple spanners and random sockets. Enough ranting, use a pickle fork to pry that axle out of the hub as much as possible and get on that head, break it loose, be liberal with your penetrating fluid, and use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I call it AceTeF and its way better than PB blaster, kroil, liquid wrench, all of the penetrating fluids you could possibly think of. 

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Legend!

I'll try that and see if I can pull or better push the axle in a bit. I'm already bit worried that I havent had that info in the first place as I borrowed all the tools and torque bar for the 300NM wheelnut... Now my mate is 600km far away with all the tools... Ill report how it went. And if worked out, consider a lil youtube video for future DIY pathfinder driver :)

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