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Anyone ever had a lifter replacement job done on a VQ?


colinnwn
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I was wondering how much it should cost, or approximate shop hours?

 

My Pathfinder developed continual lifter rattle. On its last trip before being parked a year ago, it started overheating, but did not fully overheat, as I limped it home. I figured because the exhaust lifters probably weren't closing good. There were no check engine lights as I recall.

 

My father in law's 2011 F150 is becoming unreliable. He said he was going to buy a backup junker, and I suggested seeing how much to repair mine. I'm gonna try to limp it to a local shop, and he is going to ask around in his rural area too. But I was hoping for an idea of what to expect.

 

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What year? My “lifter rattle” turned out to be the 5th power valve screw going & one of the butterfly valves coming loose. I’d start there - especially if you haven’t secured the power valves & it’s not a manual. If you do get down to lifters, it’s an incredibly complex & expensive repair. Also, I believe the part number changed late 2001 - this was confusing & hard to ferret out if it was truly a different part or not (alot of changes between 2000 & 2002 (essentially 3 slightly different engines exist in that time gap).

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

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It's a 2001 manual, no power screws.

I did a little research last night and it sounds like these engines don't have hydraulic lifters. I could have sworn years ago I read they did. The pre - 2002.5 VQs in Pathfinders had shims that almost never go out of spec, and post that had a shimless design.

Some people said to check VVT mechanism, check oil pressure, check oil flow around lifters esp at #1, some said it could be the timing chain tensioner. No clear and likely culprit. And so it's hard to judge the competency of any shop I may request a quote from.

This is all interesting because it's exactly where my Mom's 1996 Maxima with the VQ was headed when she gave it away.

As a first throwaway effort I may replace the oil with ATF and let it run at idle for 5 minutes. At least for one person that's all they needed.

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If it’s way up there in mileage, consider pulling the timing chain cover off and replacing the three chains, tensioners, and water pump. This requires your valve covers to come off which gives the opportunity to check clearances between cams and valves. If that doesn’t help, could it be fuel injectors? I’ve heard somebody say those can tick

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The mileage is 265k. Thanks for the recommendations. If the shop I take it to for a quote doesn't have a solid recommendation I'll ask them for a quote on that.

I don't think there is any way it's fuel injectors. The rattling verging on knocking is loud, not like soft ticking. And the day it progressed from just on startup, and then just on firm acceleration, to being constant when running, the temp started creeping up past 210 degrees. Then with the heater on full blast it stabilized just above 200. It never used to run that hot.

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Im in Texas, and there is a big spread of independent shop hour rates between rural and city and shady vs good shops, but I'd say $60-80/hr is a good rule of thumb here.

I'll absolutely post the end result. But we are prepping for a trip, my FIL has some big expenses coming up, and this isn't urgent. So it may be a month until I get it quoted.

I'm positive it will be more than I could sell it for. But it will likely be cheaper than anything we could buy in comparable good condition for him, and we know it's history.

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Totally understand, I replaced my engine when it suffered the power valve tragedy for the same reason - I’d had it since new & knew it’s entire history & it was still in very good shape with only trace rust - plus I was at 100K. (& My wife figured it was alot cheaper than a new 4Runner).

Rates up here are more like $100-130/*, it’s offensive.

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