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Remote Start Problems


AR97Pathfinder
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I installed a Viper two way remote start system on my 97 pathfinder (177k miles) last December. Everything works fine except when remote starting and using the key takeover feature, after a while of driving the vehicle would simply shut down with absolutely no warning. It would restart again with no problem. 

Once or twice it would happen a minute after driving. I would remote start, then open door and turn key to on position and then drive. This issue started the next day after having the remote start installed. When I did not use the key takeover feature and manually restarted vehicle, I never encounter this problem. 

I have brought it back to installation place several times and they say it is installed correctly and could not find issue. They are saying it is the vehicle and have never seen this issue. I have also taken it to another remote start shop and they checked it out, again finding no issues. 

Right now I have the key takeover disabled and no issues. Has anyone encountered this issue or have any ideas? 

I have a new distributor, maf sensor, TPS sensor, plugs and leads. All original Nissan parts.

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Well the only problem I would have trying that is that the remotes don’t work. Several years ago there was some issue and I believe the smart entry system was disconnected. 
 

I even bought a new Nissan key and tried reprogramming it on my own and doesn’t work. 
 

So I locked doors with the main button and opened with key. The factory alarm was still active. 
 

I don’t know if bringing the original key would work. 

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And the shutdown that occurs with the key takeover feature being used is very sporadic and random. Sometimes occurs a minute after driving sometimes 20 minutes. Sometimes doesn’t happen for a week or two. 
 

But never happens when starting with physical key. 

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Given your symptoms with the key start working, and the new entry system not, that anything is wrong with your truck. It's probably the install or new entry system.

The reason R50JR said to do that is at least after 2000, the keys had a tiny chip the size of a rice grain in them that must authenticate using a tiny antenna in the steering column.

It is completely separate to the keyless entry system or the remotes. You can confirm or rule this out by taping only your key to the column and use your new entry system as normal.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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I guess I can try it out to see. 
 

So I’d have to have both key?

 

tape one to steering column and the other one to drive? And then use the remote start system like normal? 
 

sorry if I’m not getting this properly.  

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Maybe I didn't understand. Your remote start requires the key to be inserted to drive off and that's what the key override feature does? I was thinking the key didn't need to be inserted.

But even if it does, id try what you say. It could be the immobilizer does not see the key on start, doesn't look for it again when running, but let's it run a bit before turning off. Having the key taped to the column when the remote start activates would rule that out, even if you have to insert the other key. I'm not sure how they wire around that in older cars without CANBUS. I have heard of some people taping a spare key inside their column.





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Yeah, basically whenever you remote start it you unlock doors (I use the viper remote, it’s programmed to control the factory alarm) and stick the key in ignition and turn to the on position but don’t crank and then you press brakes and vehicle takes over from the remote start system. 
 

 

And that’s when the problem occasionally happens...

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Ah well the other thing I could envision bring wrong is the ignition cylinder and switch being worn out so just turning it to 'on' sometimes allows it to jiggle back to accessory, but flicking it to start maintains enough friction so it doesn't happen then.

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Strange problem, but I am inclined to suspect the ignition switch as the problem. I know the ignition switches from that era suffers from old age and wear. It is about the only thing I can think of since the 97 didn't use a chipped key that I know of. In the several remote start systems I have installed, once the ignition key is moved to run, the system essentially turns off. Some of the units I installed had a timed run function, but you had to press the start button while the engine is running and then without touching the brake, turn the key to off. Generally then the system would keep the engine running for 10 min then shut down. One thing they all had in common, the ignition had to be in run position before touching the brake, or the system would turn off the engine.

 

With the key in run, the system is completely bypassed, so it stands to reason that if the problem never happened before the install, it would be likely that the pulling on the wires to the ignition switch caused the contacts in the switch to move slightly. One thing to try would be to wiggle the wiring harness to the switch while the engine is running and see if anything happens. 

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13 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Strange problem, but I am inclined to suspect the ignition switch as the problem. I know the ignition switches from that era suffers from old age and wear. It is about the only thing I can think of since the 97 didn't use a chipped key that I know of. In the several remote start systems I have installed, once the ignition key is moved to run, the system essentially turns off. Some of the units I installed had a timed run function, but you had to press the start button while the engine is running and then without touching the brake, turn the key to off. Generally then the system would keep the engine running for 10 min then shut down. One thing they all had in common, the ignition had to be in run position before touching the brake, or the system would turn off the engine.

 

With the key in run, the system is completely bypassed, so it stands to reason that if the problem never happened before the install, it would be likely that the pulling on the wires to the ignition switch caused the contacts in the switch to move slightly. One thing to try would be to wiggle the wiring harness to the switch while the engine is running and see if anything happens. 

No luck locating the issue, engine continued to run despite shaking the harness and wires in the column. 

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