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Cv axle snap ring Help


Foursightho
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I've spent the last 3 days searching for through threads for help. So far all the tips I've seen don't address my problem. 

 

I'm replacing my cv axles and bearings. Im reassembling everything now but I can't get the stupid snap ring back on.

 

I'm confident the bearings are seated in the hub.

 

I'm stuck and can't get my cv axle shift out far enough to get my snap ring on. I've jacked the lower ball joint up but that hasn't helped. I have recheck everything and made sure their in the right order but no cigar. 

 

The replacement axle came from advance auto and im curious should i keep the old brass spacer that goes that on the original axle or can I just remove it. If I remove it I have about 3/16th of an inch space to put the snap ring on.

With it on i have less than a the width of my screw driver tip in space. The new axle did not have a spacer.

 

I have tried using vise grips to pull the axle out, tapping on the back if the axle , and using a c clamp to hold the axel tight against the hub assembly with no progress. 

 

Help!!! I really need this complete by Monday. 

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Been a while since I had auto hubs on my truck, but I seem to remember the brass piece you're talking about being part of the clutch assembly for the hub (not just a spacer). AFAIK the only thing that should stop the axle from pulling out more is the seal that rides against the CV itself, which I assume you replaced when you did the bearings. Is that seal driven in all the way? If it's sitting proud, that would stop the axle from sticking out as far as it should.

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Thanks everyone i got it all back in. For the driver side cv axle I had to use a thinner snap ring. 

 

The passenger side did not have a brass spacer at all.  I had to run to the junk yard and buy one. The space goes one the cv axle shaft right before the spindle. It goes brass spacer, grease seal, needle bearing (thrust bearing) as shown on page fa16. The tapered end of the brass spacer goes towards the cv axle. Without that space I would have had close to 1/4in axle end play.

 

I hope this helps someone.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm trying hard to get to that point.

I took vacation time this week to rebuild my suspension, thought I had all my parts until I pulled spindles, discovering another set of needle bearings. Even with the part #, Gomer at the Nissan parts counter argues with me as to weather Nissan parts fit a Qx4. Ordered from another dealership. Be here in the morning. Now I'm worried I may need some "elusive" snap ring...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just ordered a couple of CV axles from RockAuto (GSP #NCV53128), @ $110 for the pair, shipped. We'll see how they do. I haven't replaced a CV axle in years, but this YouTube video seems to provide a pretty good overview of the process (if you watch it, let me know if there's anything you'd do differently): 

 

Edited by taberwit
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That video is kind of generic but it gets you in the ballpark.  The service manual has all the torque specs.

 

I bought my cv axles from. Advance auto online. I used their coupon codes and I got them $67 each after googling the coupon. 

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Without watching the video, if you are doing this on a WD21, it is a little different than the R50. The R50 has Mcpherson strut suspension and the WD21 has upper and lower control arms. I found it easier if I put a jack stand under the lower control arm near the ball joint and let most of the weight sit on the stand, it will allow removing the 4 screws that hold the upper ball joint to the control arm and moving the arm up and lean the knuckle out easier. That usually give enough room to wiggle the halfshaft out. 

Also, the WD21 has locking hubs that have to be partially removed to access the snap ring that holds the outer shaft end. The R50 uses drive flanges that don't require removal, just a dust cap that is simply pried off. 

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