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Need advice on valvetrain noise that wont go away


RCWD21
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5w20 is too thin for warmer temps IMO. That viscosity did not even exist when our trucks were built. I would seriously stick with 5w30 or maybe if you want hotter temp protection, 5w40.

 

I don't know why the WIX filters made my oil pressure weird. I just know it made the oil pressure light stay on way longer (or gauge took forever to move) at start up than usual. I was able to reproduce it on 3 different pathfinders. I only run the OEM filter now.

 

As for the plugs, I tried bosch platinum once years ago and the truck ran noticeably worse, than it did with the worn NGK's. I always recommend using what the FSM states. Which in our case is NGK BKR6EY.

Edited by adamzan
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5w20 is too thin for warmer temps IMO. That viscosity did not even exist when our trucks were built. I would seriously stick with 5w30 or maybe if you want hotter temp protection, 5w40.
 
I don't know why the WIX filters made my oil pressure weird. I just know it made the oil pressure light stay on way longer (or gauge took forever to move) at start up than usual. I was able to reproduce it on 3 different pathfinders. I only run the OEM filter now.
 
As for the plugs, I tried bosch platinum once years ago and the truck ran noticeably worse, than it did with the worn NGK's. I always recommend using what the FSM states. Which in our case is NGK BKR6EY.
Well with the 5w20 in there I can tell just how worn my valve guides are, today when I fired it up it smoked longer than the random puff it sometimes does after sitting for a week or so. Given the additional smoke it leads me to believe that my valve guides are worn enough to allow a bit of valve chatter but still not 100% certain.

Also in my reading it seems that 5w20 and 5w30 are able to be swapped around a bit given the climate here on the coast of NC.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Great information for me on the 5w20. I too have the occasional puff of oil smoke with 5w30 so I know now not to use 5w20.

 

What I really want to do is replace all the main/rod bearings and put a new oil pump on and see if the issue remains. Bet it doesn’t.. but at that point I’d rather slap a whole motor in there.

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Great information for me on the 5w20. I too have the occasional puff of oil smoke with 5w30 so I know now not to use 5w20.
 
What I really want to do is replace all the main/rod bearings and put a new oil pump on and see if the issue remains. Bet it doesn’t.. but at that point I’d rather slap a whole motor in there.
When I did my rebuild my main bearings and crank bearings had a tiny bit of wear on them but thanks to thin funds at the time I had to check them and reuse them. They spec'd out fine but heres some pics of how it was when I pulled it apart that makes me wonder if there isn't just a weird spot on the driver side head that makes it extra noisy. It was pretty nasty in there

Thanks to the rear brake line issue I'm unable to drive it currently but once I do I'll let you know more about how the 5w20 does and if it really makes any differencebdc4e6c71dba7875379bb23c17e82576.jpgaa266f52582bdeb4a61e8f184e3a2044.jpgbc683dfcdc118dc5fb841a7c638bd968.jpg320f0e9183ad82b1c37623411ff8999c.jpg7b3fb433d889b469df0d0b3bb7c03dde.jpgff5b0571d06ba1b55251640aa7124787.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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