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94 2” lift


Teesetz
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Looking to get this kit, however is it required when installing the lift to relocate the bumper and extend the fuel filler etc? In the description below you’ll see what I’m talking about 6276ddb9924f6b654adb0e5f9c4b54ef.jpg

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Correct, you can get away with factory brake hoses on a suspension lift if you keep it to around 2". I'd go that way personally, although I prefer the superlift UCAs over the 4x4parts version (plenty of threads discussing that on here).  

Because you're not altering the relationship between the body and the frame this way, you don't have to mess with your bumper mounts. You're also adding the clearance at the lowest point. (bottom of frame/transfer case). Body lifts are really only adding value if you need more tyre clearance. 

 

Good luck with it!

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Great info thanks! I’ll most likely do that. Really don’t want too have to relocate or extend anything if I can get away with it.

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I have both on my Pathfinder. If I was to do it again, I would do the bodylift and save up for a solid axle swap. However, my lifting was for off pavement performance rather than looks. 

The only way to get a true increase of ground clearance is to fit bigger tires. The lowest point is the bottom of the rear diff and larger tires is the only way to get more unless you fit portals, but that is way beyond even a SAS. 

With the 3" SL, you are still stuck running the same size tires. The front suspension still has the same range of movement, so the lift is only static. You will also be forcing the front suspension and steering to be working outside the design angles, so you will be wearing parts like steering parts and ball joints much faster. The compression rod to frame interface is less than ideal as well. Alignments are already hard to get done properly due to the old design, and changing the angles makes it worse. When I had just the suspension lift and aftermarket wheels with 32x11.50 tires, I was looking at replacing all 4 tierods, the idler arm,(I did have the brace, but the arm itself would bend), centerlink, and alignment anytime I used 4lo on anything but loose surfaces. I ran on rocks a lot, went through a lot of front end and steering parts. Got worse when I moved up to 33's. I also tend to break the inner CV boots and joints. 

With stock alloy wheels or replacements with the same dimensions, you can fit 33" tires with a bodylift because you have actually lifted the body away from the tires. You also lift only the body, do the center of gravity raises a little bit because the engine, trans,t-case, and frame stay lower. 

 

I personally found the bodylift easier than the 3" suspension lift. The bumpers are flimsy on our trucks to begin with, so I don't find the relocation brackets to be a weakness. The fuel filler extension is simple and I simply replaced a few other hoses. I did bend my transfer case shifter to get low range back, but a few years later I replaced the shifter with one from a pickup that fit better (the 4x4 pickup body sits about 1.5" higher than the Pathfinder). I found the bodylift made working on the truck easier by giving me more room around the engine and frame. 

 

That is my personal findings and opinions, others have their own. 

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Great input thanks man. I’ll be off-road but I don’t think too crazy. I think these and working on the torsion bar should would for now? 60a09b5e2bbefb54b760643b2d13046d.jpg
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That's what I have done in the past and will be doing to my current truck. You'll need longer travel shocks too.

My personal experience is that If you don't beat your rig to crap on the rough stuff it will last okay.

Using OEM or good quality Japanese (like TRW or 555) suspension parts where possible helps with longevity. 
Also get yourself an idler arm brace.
 

Edited by FirstGenFreak
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If you want to fit 33x10.5 you can fit those stock with little trimming (on stock lego wheels). I currently have those on my 3+3 lifted truck and I could probably fit 35.10.5x15 if that size could be found easily. If I had to do it all again I would just do a body lift and run narrow 33's. Our trucks drive best with a 10.5" wide tire and it won't kill power/fuel economy/steering parts as much. The off road difference between 12.5 and 10.5" is hardly noticeable, maybe if all you did was mud bogging it would be worth the extra wear and tear. I for one won't put that size back on my truck.

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