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Fuel System Swap


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I got my new set of Standard Motor Products fuel injectors and a fuel pressure regulator in the mail (c/o Rock Auto, thanks to the person that showed me the site) last night, so I decided to swap everything in while I had the day off. I also had a WIX fuel filter laying around that I swapped in. Haven’t started her up yet but I’m highly optimistic.

 

In the next couple days, barring the motivation is there, I’ll be doing the fuel pump also.22dd111da9386dc36d8c440ac0bab7c4.jpg

 

 

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Everything’s back together so I cranked her over and she didn’t start...

It took a few tries but fuel finally got to the new injectors and she was only running with my foot on the gas. The idle was bouncing around so much and as soon as I took my foot off the gas it would die.

Then it happened. I felt the engine smooth out and I took my foot off the gas to hear a clean, smooth idle. This is with a new filter, regulator, and injectors. The fuel pump is yet to go in. The fact that it’s running this smooth now has me excited for the new fuel pump to go in.


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Takes a surprisingly long time to purge the air out of the fuel rails when injectors get replaced. Takes forever it seems like when on a modern returnless system. 

 

Glad it is happy now, good luck with the pump, be gentle with it. The wires are on the delicate side when over 25 years old and the pump module screws are very soft and easily damaged. 

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Two days later and I’m having a small issue. I’ve noticed my Pathfinder shakes again on idle for a little bit until it gets up to operating temperature, and white smoke comes spewing out the tailpipe under acceleration. Sometimes it wants to stall as soon as I start it unless I give it gas. Is this normal during the “break-in” period for the new injectors?


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Nope. Just a wild question, but how good is your fuel? If you have an excessive amount of water built up in your tank, it can cause some issues or it is possible that you have some bad fuel. 

Happened to me a few years back, I had a 2013 Altima SV with the 3.5 that I bought new. My daughter was driving it and it died on her a couple miles after she refilled the tank. I was at work, car was under warranty and had towing on the insurance. Told her to get it towed to the dealership. A little under $500 dollars later, car was fine again. The fuel she put in was contaminated with something. The dealership said that they didn't have any idea of what it was, but the fuel was milky. They had wound up cleaning out the tank and flushing the fuel system. Since it wound up being a fuel problem, I had to eat the cost. No receipt for the fuel, so no reasonable way to have the gas station pay.

My daughter always insists on a receipt when she gets fuel ever since that happened. 

 

You might want to disconnect the fuel line at the filter and pump about a pint into a glass jar then let it sit for a while. If you have excessive water or other contamination, it will seperate and you will see it. If there is excessive water, you might want to run the tank out to empty and then drain the rest out. If you are still planning on replacing the pump, that is a good idea anyway. 

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I haven’t had any serious issues with the fuel system until I started driving it to school regularly. It would go back and forth between running normally and misfiring on one or more cylinders after going up a big hill. Then when I let it cool down and restart it after school let’s out, it’s fine again. I also had to get towed twice a couple years back due to the fuel pump dying out before running out of gas (not even down to a quarter tank both times). Since then I’ve been too lazy to rip up the stripped screws holding the rear hatch carpet down to get to the access cover for the fuel sending unit.


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It's still pretty cool outside in the mornings, does it smell like coolant? If not it is probably just condensation.

 

I had a similar issue where it would stumble and unless you gave it decent throttle it would hesitate on take off. Turned out my idle air control valve had a crack in it. It basically acted like a vacuum leak until it sealed up at temp and the truck drove fine... I had swapped in a JDM engine and re used my old intake (the previous owner drove it with a leaking rad and massively overheated the motor, so I assume that's how it got damaged). Chased that down for a good six months!

 

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So after driving around a little bit longer with some hesitation from the engine, I felt a little *pop* then she started running perfect. No smoke, no anything. I don’t know what happened but that popping sound changed everything.


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14 hours ago, MiltonWATech99 said:

So after driving around a little bit longer with some hesitation from the engine, I felt a little *pop* then she started running perfect. No smoke, no anything. I don’t know what happened but that popping sound changed everything. emoji23.png


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Well if you did a swap it could’ve been all the air coming out of the lines. My 6.0 did it after I did the HG. the oil rails for the injectors were filled with air and it ran terrible and then it popped a few times then ran great. Glad to hear you got it figured lol

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1 hour ago, Strato_54 said:

Well if you did a swap it could’ve been all the air coming out of the lines. My 6.0 did it after I did the HG. the oil rails for the injectors were filled with air and it ran terrible and then it popped a few times then ran great. Glad to hear you got it figured lol


Definitely. My Xterra ran weird for a good 20 minutes after I replaced the knock sensor (upper and lower intake has to come off). The air bleeds itself out eventually.

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