Dbot Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 List of suspects: Alternator diode main timing chain off a link or two Bank 1 (us passenger) cam phaser messed bank 1 (us passenger) timing chain stretched Bought it with a broken timing secondary timing chain and broken secondary timing chain tensioner (both on bank 2). Replaced those broken components. When I first pulled off the timing chain cover it was so sludgy and crusty I couldn’t see timing marks on anything other than the key on the crankshaft. In my mission to find the timing marks on cam sprockets (so I can find top dead center) I removed the 4 hex bolts on the bank 1 cam phaser and turns the engine by hand. Later i found the timing marks under sludge. As for realigning the cam phaser, it appeared to only reattach in 90 degree increments to the cam sprocket. With trial and error I got it to the position where it didn’t crash the pistons with the valves when I turned the engine. This is suspect because the issue is a new code that the vehicle didn’t have before I started working on it and it’s on the bank 1 side where this phaser is. And factory service manual says to not mess with those. the other possibility is maybe it’s off 1 tooth on the cam sprocket. My timing method goes like: turn crank sprocket where shaft key is lined up with the 10:00 timing mark on block. Drape the main chain over the top of the upper sprockets, aligning colored links with the timing marks on upper sprockets. Center the the upper cam sprockets where they are symmetrical with their timing marks. Pulled chain over water pump , and pulled chain under crank sprocket . I put tension on the driver’s side (US) when doing this. Then installed the tensioner on the passenger side after chain was in place. The crank sprocket had a timing mark on it BUT THE CHAIN did not have a special link for the sprocket alignment . When the chain installed without the tensioner there is enough slack in the chain for the chain to jump forward or backward one chain link on the sprocket. Since jumping one link is a possibility, I wanted to mention that. the secondary timing chain that I didn’t replace is one bank 1. I could visually see it had a bit more slack than the brand new chain I put on bank 2. But again, this code didn’t show up until after I tore everything down. The alternator got quite a bit of power steering fluid dumped on it during disassembly. Maybe a bad diode letting non smooth current into the system that the cam position sensor is picking up? i swapped the cam position the sensors with my other 3.5l r50 and it had no effect on the issue. Engine seems to start ok but idles kind of rough. Usually about 750 rpm. Engine seems to handle revs ok in the driveway. Occasionally it stalls after a minute of two of idling. But it starts back up easy. Haven’t got the drive it yet because I don’t want to have it stall on me without license plates. Engine has a ticking noise too. anybody got any gut feelings on this? Also looking for other things I can check before I resort to replacing the other chains and bank 1 cam phaser so let me know if you have any ideas. thanks much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I would have replaced all 3 chains, tensioners, and the guides at the very least when the front was off the engine. Possible the timing cover has an internal oil leak preventing proper oil pressure to the cam phaser, or the filter screens in the cover are clogged. Just spit-balling since online diagnosis is difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbot Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Thanks for the help. I didn’t even consider those suggestions. After driving it around 20 miles those issues and codes went away. If it comes back, I’ll start with those ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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