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PathyGig12’s Build Thread


PathyGig12
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33 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

Colorado has so many nice places to visit. Given your altitude, what’s the effective season there? Ours is June - mid October though some trails will take until July to be clear of snow.

From what I’ve seen on the trails off-road website for Colorado trails over the past few years, as well as just personal experience, the season is pretty much the same as yours. Most of the nice scenic trails take until end of June to be fully passable, and stay open until the end of October depending on how early it snows. Usually I don’t plan to be on anything high altitude until mid July but this year it’s been hot. Some trails below 10,000 are fine as early as the middle of may, just depends 

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Yesterday I started getting a massive grinding noise and while braking, so I looked around thinking it just be something caught in the dust shield. Nope, nothing fell out when prying on it.
 

The rotor looked fine on the outside but inside the wheel I noticed chunks of steel. Uh oh.

 

Took the hub apart and the whole backside of the rotor was shredded, the inside pad had worn down to the backing plate and was grinding. Turns out the culprit was a seized caliper pin that had rusted into place because moisture got into the cracked boot. I slapped some new pads and a new rotor in but I’m waiting on the reman calipers to be delivered later in the week. It’ll be fine for a while but if left alone the same thing will eventually happen again. And I figure the other side probably isn’t far behind so it’s worth changing both. 
 

Tomorrow night the new steering rack goes on, and I’ll get it aligned shortly after. I’ll update the thread as to whether my steering shimmy goes away, fingers crossed

 

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Check your transfer gear box, aka intermediate gear box. its an angled gear box that the shaft from the steering wheel goes into before the secondary shafts that exits it goes to the rack n pinion itself. On my low mileage 03, its loose and has play, so even with new rotors etc. I'll get a shimmy and clunk noise, especially under hard brake or parking lot maneuvers.

 

 

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32 minutes ago, BattleWagon said:

Check your transfer gear box, aka intermediate gear box. its an angled gear box that the shaft from the steering wheel goes into before the secondary shafts that exits it goes to the rack n pinion itself. On my low mileage 03, its loose and has play, so even with new rotors etc. I'll get a shimmy and clunk noise, especially under hard brake or parking lot maneuvers.

 

 

Interesting! I’ll have to take a closer look at it.

 

Right now my working theory is that a lot of the play was coming from the stuck caliper and resulting imbalance in the pad wear causing a wobble in the rotor. And the worn out rack was allowing that play to transfer to the steering system in a more dramatic way. 

Anyway, I’m putting on the new calipers Monday night, and I’ll throw in the other side pads and rotor to match the new driver side just so everything is even. 
 

May or may not paint them red and pencil on “Brembo” for @!*%s and gigs....TBD

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey @PathyGig12! Sweet post, I'm in the middle of getting all my parts for my AC+9449 Lift. I have a couple questions regarding OEM parts and where you got them, I didn't see links for the parts while skimming through but I'd love if you could give some links for the Strut Mounts, Bearings, Bump Stops, ETC. Thank You!

 

p.s. are you apart of other forums in Facebook so I may contact you easier?

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Hey [mention=42600]PathyGig12[/mention]! Sweet post, I'm in the middle of getting all my parts for my AC+9449 Lift. I have a couple questions regarding OEM parts and where you got them, I didn't see links for the parts while skimming through but I'd love if you could give some links for the Strut Mounts, Bearings, Bump Stops, ETC. Thank You!
 
p.s. are you apart of other forums in Facebook so I may contact you easier?

Google a part number & alot of options will pop up. Google even tells you on a bunch of them if they are no tax or free shipping. I frequently switch my source based on who has the cheapest price, shipping & no tax. And if course there’s RockAuto with their ever present 5% off. DesertRat.com is another reliable source & my preference over 4WheelParts whom I try to avoid. I try to give 4x4parts.com (AC) as little business as possible as their shipping is obscene. Here are 3 examples of parts searches:

OEM Replacement Parts
Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2
Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2
Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2
Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) $22.50=$11.25x2
$173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com

ENGINE
Gaskets $89.36
Upper Seal [54034-0W000] $53.36($26.68 x2)
Upper Insulator Bearing [54325-5V000] $45.16($22.58 x2)
Thermostat [21200-4W01B] $21.32
Gasket [16175-4W000] $4.33
Plenum Gasket [14033-4W000] $5.15
Plenum Gasket [14033-4W010] $11.88
Valve Cover Gasket [13270-8J102] $14.63
Valve Cover Gasket [13270-8J112] $15.39
Engine Intake Manifold Gasket [14032-4W00A] $34.80
Thermostat Gasket [13050-31U00] $4.31
Water Valve [21230-6N20A] $12.44
$238.75($222.77+$15.98s)@Arizona Infiniti Parts www.arizonainfinitiparts.com

SUSPENSION
FRONT:
KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Left, 4WD [335033] $57.79
KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Right, 4WD [335032] $57.79
KYB Strut Bellow [sB129] $21.60($10.80 x2)
Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Rear 4WD [K80435] $34.84($17.42x2)
Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Front [K90659] $34.64($17.32x2)
$ 263.50($ -$10.33 5% Discount+$42.99s+$24.18t)@RockAuto
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  • 1 month later...

Update time. 
 

Been busy with work lately, but the truck is still in good shape. I have been getting a bit of a creaking noise from the front left when I’m going over bumps, and it also makes a thunk from about the midpoint of the truck when I brake more than 20%. I played with it a bit and it’s more related to the weight shift than the brake application because sometimes I’ll get it when I accelerate but it’s rare, and sometimes I’ll be braking but it doesn’t do it until I hit a bump midway through the braking. 
 

I checked to make sure everything is tight and I checked the tranny mount and U joints so that’s not it. Need to do some more investigation, but I was slamming it over washboard last weekend and it didn’t break anything so at least I know it’s not something crucial that’s about to fall apart. 
 

The main thing I’m focused on now is making sure I get the front shaft u joints replaced and balanced before the winter  so that I can leave the front shaft on. It also still needs an alignment. 
 

The main thing keeping me from knocking these things out is the fact that my girlfriends 4runner is in dire need of work right now. We just slapped on some new tires and I have lower control arms and tundra brakes waiting to go on before getting it aligned. The problem is that it suddenly won’t start. It just cranks and cranks. Checked the fuel pump, changed plugs, wires, coils, fuel filter, relays, fuses, and even tried swapping out the ignition module but no dice. I confirmed I’m not getting spark, so I think It’s gotta be ECU or the vehicle immobilizer. I get the security light flashing when I turn the key so I think the RFID chip is messed up. It just sucks to have a locksmith re-flash the ECU and make a new chip key since it costs so damn much. There’s kits that bypass the immobilizer for the purpose of putting in remote start systems but I’m not an electrician so I’m worried I’d mess something up

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Oh yeah and someone stole my jerry can while the truck was parked outside the apartment. Numb nuts couldn’t figure out how to loosen a ratchet strap so they first tried bashing it with something because I saw it was all deformed, and eventually they just cut the strap. Sucks because this was one of the JEGS cans that was super nice. I liked it better than the Wavian I had before because it had a simple cap and spout and I got it for half the price. Now of course they’re out of stock grrrr

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