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PathyGig12
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Cool I’ll check those out. The place I am taking the truck is a guy that specializes in Japanese imports, not the dealership. 
 

I hope he’ll understand what I’m asking him to do though. I don’t fully understand it myself so it’s kind of hard to explain. 

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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

 

Power Valve (Butterfly Valve) Screws on Intake Plenum

They are power/swirl valves...the swirl valve actuator is what opens and closes them

6 butterfly valves in the upper manifold held in with 2 screws each

tiny phillips screws, size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length

Remove each screw & Loctite red threadlocker=permanent

2-3hrs, just a lot of bits and pieces to take off/put back on

 

page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts.

 

Intake Manifold torque-all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs.

 

Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer

16175-4w000 (throttle body)

14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*)

14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*)

14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*)

* (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.)

 

Altimas and Sentras TSB NTB05-058.

 

Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws

8 in Number

Altima Part#14511-8J00B

come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. 

Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

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finally some daylight pictures!

 

I went ahead and sprayed the OE wheels black.

 

Next up is probably removing the running boards for more clearance on the sides 

Looks Great - the black wheels looks good to me. That OEM 6 spoke turns out nice in black

 

Definitely think hard about the running boards. The kind you have are low profile & accent the truck nicely in my opinion. They are very stout & will actually protect your rocker panel to a significant degree. I know of several people who took theirs off only to suffer rocker &/or door damage as a result. They are also invaluable if you use your roof at all or take women or kids along as passengers. I actually own the RRO sliders but haven’t been in a rush to mount them as I find them usefull on a daily use basis.

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6 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:

Z480Qub.jpgK0HLP25.jpg

finally some daylight pictures!

 

I went ahead and sprayed the OE wheels black. Bear in mind I’m a horrible painter, but they are indeed no longer silver. So I count it as a success 

 

I loved the look of the black wheels on everyone else’s rigs so I figured I’d like mine better in black as well. Makes the tires look bigger and the truck more aggressive. Next up is probably removing the running boards for more clearance on the sides 

Looks great!

 

I had those wheels when I first got my rig and I never gave them the time of day. Changed over to other OEM wheels off a toyota and a refurbished set of mag's pretty quickly but yours is the second rig I've seen with nice rubber mounted on them. They're really growing on me.

Definitely get the power valves taken care of. Worth every penny of labor. I sourced all the required OEM gaskets from Courtesy Nissan of Texas for about $80 and did the job myself. I suspect a few hundred dollars in labor, not including parts, is a reasonable amount for a good shop. Not a terrible job if you're inclined to try it yourself.

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1 hour ago, TowndawgR50 said:

Looks great!

 

I had those wheels when I first got my rig and I never gave them the time of day. Changed over to other OEM wheels off a toyota and a refurbished set of mag's pretty quickly but yours is the second rig I've seen with nice rubber mounted on them. They're really growing on me.

Definitely get the power valves taken care of. Worth every penny of labor. I sourced all the required OEM gaskets from Courtesy Nissan of Texas for about $80 and did the job myself. I suspect a few hundred dollars in labor, not including parts, is a reasonable amount for a good shop. Not a terrible job if you're inclined to try it yourself.

Thanks man!

 

I would love to do the job myself but I’m just worried I’d run into a problem that would stretch it past a day and screw me for work. It’s my daily driver so I’m kind of in a tough spot. But I’ll do some research and see if it’s reasonable.
 

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Rain goat, thanks for the link and the parts list! Ill look into it further when I have a second. 
 

As for the running boards, you might be on to something. I haven’t found them to take away from clearance too much as it is, and you’re right about the usability. Ideally I’d like to replace them with rock sliders, but those are way down the list of priorities, so I guess they’ll stay until then. I always wondered though, can you use a Hi lift jack on the running boards (not the boards themselves, but where they mount to the body)? And how about the hitch assembly in the back? You could lift off of that right? I’m trying to justify mounting a HiLift jack on my rig so please help me spend money! Ha, At the very least I could use it to help with recovery, but knowing I could lift the truck too would be awesome

 

 

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of course the engine would be inside the car lol but great display of how it works. the work needed to be done ends at 14 mins, very easy if you just slow down and keep track. also at 18:26 in the video, you’re staring directly at the power valve screws, there is 2 for each gold power valve.
@raingoat this would help when trying to explain the procedure!
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Just gave the video a watch and it looks pretty easy to me. I think it’s worth giving it a shot myself. Biggest thing for me will be taking pictures of how everything is laid out before touching anything so I can always check if I put it back together correctly. 
 

It’ll also give me practice taking apart engines for when I get up the courage to replace the valve cover gaskets and injectors on my girlfriends 4runner. That’s going to be a nightmare job

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3 hours ago, RainGoat said:

One smart trick was a guy who pushed each bolt into a cardboard template to keep track of what went where

Very common trick, works well. Having done the screws myself, definitely recommend the cardboard and taking some pictures. Also a torque wrench and the torque specs from an FSM.

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Hey rain goat, I’m trying to source the gaskets but I can’t find any online place selling the last one you mentioned (14033-4w00A)

 

The closest one I can find is this one (14032-4W00A)

https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nissan-plenum-gasket-140324w00a?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D

 

Do you think you could grab me a link? Or is the dealership the only option? The other ones were easy, but no one seems to have this one.

 

I’m also wondering why you suggest getting the screws from an Altima and removing the washers instead of just buying the correct screw size from a hardware store? You listed them at m3 0.50 10mm right? Or maybe the shop will have them on hand?

Edited by PathyGig12
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44 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

Hey rain goat, I’m trying to source the gaskets but I can’t find any online place selling the last one you mentioned (14033-4w00A)

 

The closest one I can find is this one (14032-4W00A)

https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nissan-plenum-gasket-140324w00a?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D

 

Do you think you could grab me a link? Or is the dealership the only option? The other ones were easy, but no one seems to have this one.

 

I’m also wondering why you suggest getting the screws from an Altima and removing the washers instead of just buying the correct screw size from a hardware store? You listed them at m3 0.50 10mm right? Or maybe the shop will have them on hand?

I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well.

 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424

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58 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:

I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well.

 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424

Cool. I can’t order from Rockauto because I’m in Colorado and the tax changes make it so they won’t ship here anymore but I can try to find the full set on a different site. I think I saw the felpro set on eBay 

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Summit racing has the set. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mah-ms19386?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8vbFxafy5QIVBffjBx1PkwP_EAQYAiABEgJUvfD_BwE
 

So if I buy them, is that all the parts I’ll need besides the screws (if any are missing)?

 

Also are the screws I linked ok?

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My info is just data aggregation mostly. I’ll defer to @02_Pathy &@R50JR as they’ve done it themselves. I saw it on the shop floor during the traumatic events of having to remove my otherwise pristine engine & put in a new one.

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On 11/15/2019 at 10:55 PM, PathyGig12 said:

I always wondered though, can you use a Hi lift jack on the running boards (not the boards themselves, but where they mount to the body)? And how about the hitch assembly in the back? You could lift off of that right? I’m trying to justify mounting a HiLift jack on my rig so please help me spend money! Ha, At the very least I could use it to help with recovery, but knowing I could lift the truck too would be awesome

 

I would not recommend trying to use a Hi-Lift off the step mounts. They're rounded and don't really stick out that much. Just overall not a good anchor. I've seen people do it off the hitch.

 

But if you're new to a Hi-Lift definitely do some studying, and maybe practice with someone who's familiar. They're useful, but also super dangerous. In many circumstances a solid bottle jack, or even scissor jack, can get you out of a pinch. Just my $0.02! Once you get sliders a Hi-Lift would become a lot more useful.

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1 hour ago, zakzackzachary said:

 

I would not recommend trying to use a Hi-Lift off the step mounts. They're rounded and don't really stick out that much. Just overall not a good anchor. I've seen people do it off the hitch.

 

But if you're new to a Hi-Lift definitely do some studying, and maybe practice with someone who's familiar. They're useful, but also super dangerous. In many circumstances a solid bottle jack, or even scissor jack, can get you out of a pinch. Just my $0.02! Once you get sliders a Hi-Lift would become a lot more useful.

Definitely this. Bottle jack with a solid piece of wood will be safer.

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Ditto!

 

I have lifted my whole rear end with a Hi-Lift in my hitch shackle. I have the OEM hitch which is significantly more robust than the aftermarket ones as it has extensions that extend up the unibody underneath. It was emergent/urgent & it was sketchy but I’ve done some of that kind of thing in non-automotive settings.

 

I would NOT use the running boards as a jack point. I will consider my sliders once they are welded on but that would still be a last resort as there is significant risk of damage to the vehicle - either from the lift or from the Jack misbehaving & hitting the doors.

 

I now have a steel front bumper & would consider lifting off that; however, I have reservations there as well - both stability if the jack & some lack of faith in how the bumper mounts to the unibody.

 

You can use a Lift-mate to lift a wheel and help with building up or shoveling our with obstructions. With a wheel change you would then need to put something under the body & lower & remove the wheel - obviously not ideal.

 

Another advantage of a Hi-Lift is acting as a come-along (basically a manual winch) for recovery or for moving obstacles.

 

I carry my OEM scissor jack & a 5T bottle jack all the time. I’m looking at the Safe-Jack accessories for my bottle jack & I have a 1cm thick poly foot for the jacks by Reese.

 

I also have had an ARB Bushranger exhaust jack for >15 years. It’s a pain to pack. I’ve never used it & I stopped bringing it. It’s been hanging in my garage 11 years. My Mom does usually pack hers but I don’t think she’s needed it.

 

In 17 years, I think I’ve only lifted the truck 2-3 times at most - my primary reason for carrying the Hi-Lift was emergency extraction as I was typically remote & solo. Hi-Lifts are a pain to mount & sketchy to put up & down on your roof (I always fear losing control & smashing up my metal or popping a window)

 

I generally consider jacks as insurance for emergencies & bad luck. With reliable tires and judicious driving you should hopefully never need one.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a little while since my last update. Just got the warn manual hubs in the mail today, so I'm looking forward to installing them. 

 

I'm planning to tackle the power valve screws at the same time. I've been busy this past week with thanksgiving travelling so I haven't had a chance yet. On tuesday I finished doing the injectors and valve cover gaskets on my girlfriends 4runner. I'm still not done though, I found a crack in the passenger side cover so I'm going to replace it as soon as the part comes in. The damn thing is also starting to hesitate when you give it more than a light suggestion of throttle as you're starting off from a stop light, so I also have to look into that. Maybe TPS, but I'm not sure what could have changed since I never messed with it during the disassembly or reassembly. Anyway, Ill stop there so I dont get bashed for talking toyota lol

 

On the pathy I installed a hitch mounted shackle which has already seen some use pulling people out of the snow. I picked up a smittybuilt trail jack (HiLift) and mounted it to the front brushguard in a spot thats not really noticeable but also keeps it easily accessible, rather than having to take it off the roof and fumble around risking damage. I also put on a set of rear facing light pods and I have a set of rock lights that I'll be installing along the running boards in the near future. To keep the dash clean, I've been wiring everything to a single switch panel mounted just forward of the dome lights (where the sunglasses holder used to be). So far, the main light bar, undercarriage camera monitor, and rear facing lights are all wired up, and once the rock lights go on, I can finish the job by closing off some open space that is leaving the wires exposed because the switch panel doesn't cover the entire hole. There's a fifth switch thats separate from the others and I've been brainstorming ideas on what to do with it. Yes I could just get some yellow fogs and mount those to the brush guard down low, but what fun is that?? Its also got a push button "ignition" style switch next to it, so my mind immediately jumps to having some sort of crazy contraption wired up to a two stage system where you have to first toggle the switch to arm and then push the button to activate. I have no idea what contraption would be cool enough to warrant a system like that, but I don't think surface to air missiles are a legal vehicle customization, so I'll have to skip that one.......for now.

 

I ordered a wavian 5 gallon jerry can yesterday and was playing around with the idea of mounting it to an aluminum plate, and then attaching the assembly to the truck with some sort of hinged mechanism where the spare tire usually goes (underneath the truck). I'll be getting a full sized spare soon and likely a swinging carrier to mount it on, so the space would be unused. Maybe the switches could be wired to a door solenoid that catches the edge plate and holds it, and when its activated the solenoid could release the gate and allow access to the jerry can? I'd have to measure how much room there is in the spare tire well of course, and then find a solenoid with a strong bolt that is normally extended rather than retracted so that turning the truck off doesnt dump the jerry can. But I think it would be possible. The main thing I'm trying to avoid is having a big ugly gas can sticking straight up on the roof.

 

Oh yeah and I've also got an NPORA sticker coming in the mail next week, so thats pretty sweet. The rig is starting to come together now, and its really exciting. My girl is getting mad that I cant stop staring at it through the window whenever we go out to eat haha. Thanks a lot guys, I blame all of you for this obsession

 

 

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Don’t judge my wiring job! It’s still a little rough for now. I was also trying to be as un-invasive as possible, so it’s not a super clean install. Just functional and not an eye sore
 

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