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pairrothead01

Transmission, Transfer case removal

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Folks, I fear I need to replace my rear main seal. Does anyone have a video or a link to a video on how to do what needs to be removed to get to the seal?

Thanks

 

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Folks, I fear I need to replace my rear main seal. Does anyone have a video or a link to a video on how to do what needs to be removed to get to the seal?
Thanks
 
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https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html

Find your specific year and go through procedure. Search index to find it.

Good luck!


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Are you sure it is the rear main? Common leaks that seem like a rear main is the valve covers or the camshaft bore plug. 

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https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html

Find your specific year and go through procedure. Search index to find it.

Good luck!


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I had done that....reading through it exposed the desire to see a video or videos on parts of the procedures, doing this would help me decide how much pre planning and time I will need to commit.

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It’s gonna suck. How bad is it leaking?
Quart every 3 - 4 months


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Are you sure it is the rear main? Common leaks that seem like a rear main is the valve covers or the camshaft bore plug. 
I know about the valve covers......not about the bore plug.
My focus on main is I'm seeing oil drips that appear to originate from the opening at the bottom of bellhousing.

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I had done that....reading through it exposed the desire to see a video or videos on parts of the procedures, doing this would help me decide how much pre planning and time I will need to commit.

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Gotcha. I think most of us here have a RMS leak and are dreading fixing it. Me included.


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Mine was the rear seal of the oil pan.  You cannot be sure until you remove the tranny.  I replaced the RMS while in there.  It was a PITA.  If I knew I was going to replace the oil pan gasket, I may have just pulled the engine.

 

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Dropping the trans is only a pain because of tool access and hard to reach fasteners. Having done the RMS job as well as the SFD the method I would use if I had to do it again is similar to a SFD installation. 

 

By using rear trailing arm bolts in place of the OE subframe bolts you can leave most of your engine components as well as wiring in place and drop the entire subframe a few inches. @hawairish tought me this method and it works very well. This will facilitate tool access and open up a lot room in between the top of the tans and the trans tunnel to see what you need to get at like the upper bell housing bolts, the nickle plated breather tube assembly thats bolts to the upper bell housing and the coolant cross over tube. Then while you're at it toss in a pair of gaskets for the coolant cross over tube because that also requires the trans to be dropped and a SFD because all the work to get there is the same. 

Edited by TowndawgR50
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Dropping the trans is only a pain because of tool access and hard to reach fasteners. Having done the RMS job as well as the SFD the method I would use if I had to do it again is similar to a SFD installation. 
 
By using rear trailing arm bolts in place of the OE subframe bolts you can leave most of your engine components as well as wiring in place and drop the entire subframe a few inches. [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] tought me this method and it works very well. This will facilitate tool access and open up a lot room in between the top of the tans and the trans tunnel to see what you need to get at like the upper bell housing bolts, the nickle plated breather tube assembly thats bolts to the upper bell housing and the coolant cross over tube. Then while you're at it toss in a pair of gaskets for the coolant cross over tube because that also requires the trans to be dropped and a SFD because all the work to get there is the same. 
OK,
Intriging....using this SFD method you still need to remove the trany, it allows better access to everything that needs to be removed?
Please state what the acronim means.

Also I am beginnig to understand if it is the oil leak I am targeting, I need to consider oil pan gasket replacement, RMS replacement, go after that nickle thingy(sorry for my ignorance on what that is...more research needed), and I am also aware that the oil could be coming from the bore hole, oil cooler gasket and O-ring.

Sounds like I need to take a week or 2 of vacation time to do all this.

I appreciate all of you giving input and advice.......but from what I saw on youtube on a transmission removal on a R51.....this SFD method offers hope that I will attempt this versus dumping blue devil and/or Bars rear main seal restorer in a every oil change.

Would you have any pics of the subframe bolts in place? Any pics of the sequence of steps?

Thanks again.

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1 hour ago, pairrothead01 said:

OK,
Intriging....using this SFD method you still need to remove the trany, it allows better access to everything that needs to be removed?
Please state what the acronim means.

Also I am beginnig to understand if it is the oil leak I am targeting, I need to consider oil pan gasket replacement, RMS replacement, go after that nickle thingy(sorry for my ignorance on what that is...more research needed), and I am also aware that the oil could be coming from the bore hole, oil cooler gasket and O-ring.

Sounds like I need to take a week or 2 of vacation time to do all this.

I appreciate all of you giving input and advice.......but from what I saw on youtube on a transmission removal on a R51.....this SFD method offers hope that I will attempt this versus dumping blue devil and/or Bars rear main seal restorer in a every oil change.

Would you have any pics of the subframe bolts in place? Any pics of the sequence of steps?

Thanks again.

Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
 

The rear main seal is located at the back if the motor and is only accessible when the transmission is removed. 

 

SFD=Sub-Frame Drop

This is the primary method of gaining lift over 2" in the R50 platform. To install the SFD the transmission does not come out, but allows you to drop it down a bit to gain access to the upper area of the transmission. You cant drop the mated motor and transmission very far but the small amount of room gained by using the control arm bolts in place of the OE subframe bolts will make the job much easier. 

 

The work required to replace a rear main seal opens up opportunities to do preventative maintenance on a variety of other items that require access to the same area. 

Oil pan gaskets, coolant crossover pipe gaskets etc. 

 

The oil cooler does not require the transmission to be dropped to service it and can be done with minimal tools and a pair of jack stands. 

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I replaced my main seal when I rebuilt the transmission. I removed the transfer case first, then the transmission separately. Together they are too dang heavy and difficult to handle. When installing the seal onto the engine you will need the backing board from a package of bacon or similar thin plastic sheet. Wrap it around the crankshaft to work as a shoe horn when installing. I know this does not make sense now, but it will when you go to do the install. I did not remove my pan when I replaced the seal and had to reuse the old pan seal since the new one would need to be compressed to fit. Honda Bond is your friend. 

 

BTW this is a good time to remove the knock sensor and relocate too.

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Thanks for painting the picture in detail.
I have a large break of holiday time at the end of next month so I will take the shot around then.
This is such a great forum.....all shared info was and is appreciated.
If I don't get myself real crunched on time maybe I will get some pictures and video of the adventure.
Then share......

Thank for the tip on seal install.

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Anything special I need to know if I remove the transfer case separately before the SFD?

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Just to clarify something about the SFD talk...main takeaway is that the engine (among other things) is supported by a subframe on the truck.  @TowndawgR50's recommendation earlier is to loosen the subframe so that it'll allow the transmission to tip down at the rear so you can get access to the upper bellhousing bolts with ratchet extensions and such.  The process I've used is for installing SFDs is to replace the rear bolts of the subframe with longer bolts (such as the trailing arm bolts) so that the subframe slides down the bolts while staying aligned with the chassis.  It adds a little effort to the process since other nuts and bolts get loosened, and needing to support the subframe a bit, but otherwise, without doing it, you'd have to put some flex on the motor mounts to access those upper bolts.  That's not to say it can't be done without loosening the subframe.

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When you remove the transfer case you will not loose oil. The bay between the transmission and transfer case is a dry bay.

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When you remove the transfer case you will not loose oil. The bay between the transmission and transfer case is a dry bay.
Thank you......that helps.

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That does assume that the seals are in good condition and not leaking. You will have some fluid leaking out of the transfer case when the rear drive shaft is removed. 

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That does assume that the seals are in good condition and not leaking. You will have some fluid leaking out of the transfer case when the rear drive shaft is removed. 
That is something I needed to know....
Thanks

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Simple thing is to drain the t-case first, do the work and then refill the t-case with fresh ATF when done. The fluid is probably due for replacement anyway. 

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