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96 Pathy rear axel bearing replacement


Mrelcocko
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How hard is it to replace the drivers side outside bearing? Do I need to replace all the bearings? Up until a month ago when I replaced the driver side bottom control arm the one that attaches to the bottom of the frame under the driver seat floorboard I had a bad clucking sound because the control arm bushings were toast. I drove it like that for a year just because of financial purposes and had other things that were more important. There's no telling how long the bushings were out of it causing the rear end to be shifted. I'm sure that put some kind of strain on the axle bearings in the rear now that I've fixed the control arm and pretty much have the rear end back where it's supposed to be do you guys think that has caused my bearing issue? Nevertheless I've got to get these bearings replaced because this is my wife's daily driver the question that I'm asking is this. Would it be easier for me to replace the bearings or just go to my local Pull A Part grab a rear end and just replace the whole thing myself I'm thinking it would be easier just to go to Pull-A-Part and grab a rear end and I know definitely it would be a lot cheaper on me I can't see just replacing one bearing and not going ahead and replacing all of them and as you guys know those bearings are not cheap I think they run close to $90 a piece. HG4B is what's on my vin plate. Can someone tell me what rear end that is referring to? I do have the orange sticker saying use only LSD oil so I'm assuming I have the limited slip differential. I don't know the first thing about rear differentials. What would you guys recommend?

 

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I can't imagine the suspension links to cause any problems with the axle bearings. Are you sure the bearing is bad? I also don't see the bearing as being that expensive, more like $30 I think. They can be a bit of work to replace, and will require a replacement seal and retainer ring. The instructions in the manual has you drilling a hole in the retainer then using a chisel to break the retainer. Then using a bearing separator and a press to press the old bearing off. Assembly is stack the parts in proper order and press the bearing into place and the new retainer. 

 

Edit, I just remembered replacing the bearing and seal on the 95 my friend had. The retainer was not pressed on with his, it was a big nut that was screwed into the axle shaft. That was easier in that no cutting was involved and a press was not required, just makes it easier. 

Not sure which method your axle has. 

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I agree: bad suspension wouldn't contribute to bearing failure.

 

Bearing replacement process for WD21 and R50 is the same.  A floor press is required unless you've got hands on the Nissan service toolkit.  That kit doesn't require a press and is pretty clever...provisions to remove the ABS tone ring and bearings.  Otherwise, getting the tone ring off is a little tricky, as is loosening the bearing nut (the nut is recessed into the bearing cup) short of just punching it loose.  In general, handling the entire axle shaft to change the bearings is a bit of a PITA.  Bearings aren't too expensive; replacement seals are inexpensive.

 

I would imagine having the work done at a shop, start-to-finish is probably on the expensive side...guessing in the $600-$1000 range.  But, if you've pulled the axle shafts and provide it to a shop, probably $250 (I believe that's what I was quoted to having the same work done when planning my disc brake swap by a local shop).  

 

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I'm not 100% sure it is the bearing. While having both axels on the ground and applying as much pressure as my wife can pushing down I turned the pass side axel and its smooth no restriction, drivers side no restriction but as opposed to the pass side I can hear it when its turning. Before I took the axels out I jacked the rear up put it in drive and listened and from what I can tell grinding coming from drivers side. I'll find out for sure once I get in to the pinion gear later this evening and see what's going on there. You guys definitely seem to know what your talking about. From your alls experiences what normally goes in the rear ends givin it was taken care of and not taken of? Im pretty sure I'm just gonna replace the entire rear end but not sure what I'm gonna do yet. Appreciate the help guys.

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I'm not familiar with an HG4B code. Should be HG46 or HG43. I'd expect 46 if you've got the auto trans. LSD oil does indicate limited slip.

 

Before assuming it's the bearing, take the brake drum off and run your noise test again to make sure you're not mistaking a brake noise for a bearing noise.

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I'm not familiar with an HG4B code. Should be HG46 or HG43. I'd expect 46 if you've got the auto trans. LSD oil does indicate limited slip.  

Before assuming it's the bearing, take the brake drum off and run your noise test again to make sure you're not mistaking a brake noise for a bearing noise.

 

I read it wrong I thought the 6 was a B. It says HG46 your right . what other models carry this rear end. I've already taking the axles out. I can put them back in as easy as they came out? if so I will do the test like you mentioned leaving the drums off. Or can I just remove the driveshaft and turn the rear diff without the axels in to check pinion gear etc.....I know doing this won't let me know if it's a brake problem or not but from what you guys are telling me bearings don't usually go bad. I just can't see how all of a sudden I'm having problems out of it a month later after changing the control arm on drivers side I thought if something wasn't in line it would be adding more stress on the bearings and internal parts of the rear end not being in spec. Like I said the guy that I bought it from I have no idea how long he drove with the bushings out of the control arm on driver side and to beat that the control arm that was on that side was one that had an R on it which I'm assuming is the one that was supposed to go on the passenger side so there was two RH control arms on the rear end don't really know how that happened but it was like that. I didn't know there was a difference in the two because they look the same to me other than stamp with L or R. Please don't think I'm trying to say you guys are wrong in telling me that bearings can't go bad because of suspension problems. I don't want you to think that I'm just just saying in theory. What kind of problems can bad suspension cause other than handling and tire wear? 

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On 10/21/2019 at 5:42 PM, Slartibartfast said:

I'm not familiar with an HG4B code. Should be HG46 or HG43. I'd expect 46 if you've got the auto trans. LSD oil does indicate limited slip.

 

Before assuming it's the bearing, take the brake drum off and run your noise test again to make sure you're not mistaking a brake noise for a bearing noise.

you're the reason he has a broken toe  :lol:

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you're the reason he has a broken toe  
Lmao. Dude that hurt so bad. It's definitely worse than the shin hitting a trailer hitch. Lol

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Forgot to mention the "don't drop it on your toes" part! I can relate on the trailer hitch. I did that at a gas station once and swore loud enough to make the guys at the next pump look uncomfortable.

 

You may need to replace some seals before putting the axle back together if you do take it apart. Again I'd want to rule out the brake first (maybe wearing steel-toed shoes this time!) just to be sure you're not stepping over the easy thing to do the hard job first. Doesn't sound like it's got anything to do with the ring and pinion if it's just coming from the one side.

 

I'd be surprised if the incorrect/worn out link caused much trouble apart from handling and noise, like you said. Maybe the link hammering back and forth could've damaged the brackets, but I'd be surprised if you caused any serious damage that way unless you were really beating the hell out of it. As far as I can see on Rockauto, the left/right arms look about the same, just slightly different brackets, so I doubt having two right arms would've caused damage, probably just made the E-brake cable or whatever hooks onto there more difficult to work with.

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Forgot to mention the "don't drop it on your toes" part! I can relate on the trailer hitch. I did that at a gas station once and swore loud enough to make the guys at the next pump look uncomfortable.
 
You may need to replace some seals before putting the axle back together if you do take it apart. Again I'd want to rule out the brake first (maybe wearing steel-toed shoes this time!) just to be sure you're not stepping over the easy thing to do the hard job first. Doesn't sound like it's got anything to do with the ring and pinion if it's just coming from the one side.
 
I'd be surprised if the incorrect/worn out link caused much trouble apart from handling and noise, like you said. Maybe the link hammering back and forth could've damaged the brackets, but I'd be surprised if you caused any serious damage that way unless you were really beating the hell out of it. As far as I can see on Rockauto, the left/right arms look about the same, just slightly different brackets, so I doubt having two right arms would've caused damage, probably just made the E-brake cable or whatever hooks onto there more difficult to work with.
Will any xterra diffs work with my 96 Pathy? The junkyard here is full of them. I'm probably just going to replace the whole thing man to be honest with you I'm 100% positive it's not the brakes I've been having issues for the last 6 months with every time I turn the wheel to turn into my driveway into a parking spot and a lot of times going up a hill slow I thought for the longest time that the brakes were grabbing. It literally felt like the brakes were not releasing. I changed Hardware three different times wheel cylinders neither one of them are leaking a drop everything is brand new as far as the brakes go drums pads Springs the Adjusters are not but everything else is. The only time it felt like everything was fine is whenever I would take everything apart and put it back together it seemed like everything was good for maybe the first two or three miles and then it would end up going right back to like it was the grabbing. This past Friday I drove it probably a total of 80 something miles 42 to work the whole way to work I heard a whining sound and the faster I would go the whining would be a little bit higher pitched I worked for 7 hours when I left work is when it was really bad something was grinding. And I was still getting the grabbing feeling I drove it 30 mile an hour home which was 40 miles back to my house that's where I parked it Jack the rear end up took both the axles out and that's where I stand right now. I did however put it in drive with both the wheels off and actually the driver side was really really loud with a grinding sound with the passenger side the grinding sound was there too but it wasn't as bad wish I had them out like I said I had my wife push down on them as hard as she could and that's what I noticed that the driver side was the one that had some resistance and I could hear it the passenger side was smooth when I turned it. I checked the break's over inside the drums all the hardware and stuff and didn't see anything that would give me a reason to believe that something was catching or causing the grinding sound from the brakes. Yeah I've done the whole Shin thing with a trailer hitch myself and now that I've actually dropped a drum on my foot with a pair of slip on Timberlands that have a permanent line across the toe I can compare the two. I'd take shin anyday. I'm not saying that its better or worse,but Id go right now put a pair of shorts on and run into a trailer hitch to get away from what happened to me yesterday. Lol. Omg it hurts to think about it. My dogs went and hid they got really scared because of me they didn't know what the hell was going on.

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The X diff will work (and the first couple years of Xterra got a better LSD than the R50 did, which is supposed to swap right in), but the X housing is different because the Xterra went back to leaf springs for some reason.

 

Weird that the noise would go away for a bit after messing with the brakes. Surely a bearing wouldn't calm down briefly because you messed with the brakes. Like the brakes are self-adjusting into the drum or something? If you do end up swapping the axle I'd be interested to see what's inside the old one, if it really is roached.

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The X diff will work (and the first couple years of Xterra got a better LSD than the R50 did, which is supposed to swap right in), but the X housing is different because the Xterra went back to leaf springs for some reason.  

Weird that the noise would go away for a bit after messing with the brakes. Surely a bearing wouldn't calm down briefly because you messed with the brakes. Like the brakes are self-adjusting into the drum or something? If you do end up swapping the axle I'd be interested to see what's inside the old one, if it really is roached.

 

Dang the leaf springs!!.I agree with the noise going away for a bit after messing with the brakes. It does sound like a brake issue. I'm gonna slip the axels back in and check. Can I check the rest of it now without the axels installed. That way I will know for sure it is or isn't the pinion gear or what ever else is inside. Lol. I know nothing about differentials as you can tell. I'm almost positive it's not the brakes, but good point about the sound going away maybe it is a brake problem. I've got to figure this thing out. The wifey is driving the Q to work. Lol thanks for the help bro 

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Also IIRC the WD21 axle is a different length, and the panhard rod mount is on the wrong side. Also the wrong spline to hybridize a WD21 diff into an R50 housing.

 

Looking at the diagram for the rear axle, if you've got the axles out, I'd grab the bearing cages (what you unbolted from the axle housing to free the axles) and see if either of them has any end float, weeble-wobble, bad noises, anything that reminds you of the noise you heard. I can't think of anything you'd hurt by spinning the rear end with no axles, though I'm not sure how well the oil would stay in the diff. The ring gear's supposed to throw it all from hell to breakfast, so I wouldn't be surprised if it ran down one or both axle tubes and made a mess. Again I very much doubt it's the diff, but I understand wanting to check under every possible rock before putting it back together.

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Also IIRC the WD21 axle is a different length, and the panhard rod mount is on the wrong side. Also the wrong spline to hybridize a WD21 diff into an R50 housing.  

Looking at the diagram for the rear axle, if you've got the axles out, I'd grab the bearing cages (what you unbolted from the axle housing to free the axles) and see if either of them has any end float, weeble-wobble, bad noises, anything that reminds you of the noise you heard. I can't think of anything you'd hurt by spinning the rear end with no axles, though I'm not sure how well the oil would stay in the diff. The ring gear's supposed to throw it all from hell to breakfast, so I wouldn't be surprised if it ran down one or both axle tubes and made a mess. Again I very much doubt it's the diff, but I understand wanting to check under every possible rock before putting it back together.

 

I'm taking the rear end out tonight and will find out if the rear diff is the problem.Everything has been delayed due to the monsoon that passed through Knoxville the past 24hours. All I have is a covered car port/patio. Finally drying up.I figured instead of trying to put the axles back in, replace the seals and the bearings I just decided to go ahead and get a rear end from Pull-a-part. I can tighten bolts to specs and put things back together easier than changing bearings, replacing seals without the right tools. I messed up I think. I didn't look at the numbers on the plate to make sure the donor a 97 SE 4wd had the same numbers as mine. It does however have the orange sticker (LSD oil only) Did I screw up[mention=30891]Slartibartfast[/mention]? Whats the numbers and letters on the housing represent?106$ out the door. I can take it back and swap if need be. Im also pretty sure my Pathy was hit on the drivers side at one time or another because that's the side that had the rust when I purchased it,it's also the side that the control arm was bad on. And not only that when I upgraded my tail lights I noticed that the tail light on the driver side is an aftermarket tail light so with the rust, aftermarket tail light the LH control arm bushings bad and the paint job flaking I'm pretty sure it was wrecked and hit on the driver side (LH)at one time or another. Would that cause problems later on down the road with the rear diff. I've not done a car fax. I still talk to previous owner and he said it was never wrecked when he owned it. 

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I don't think the ratio is printed on the axle, unfortunately. AFAIK only the manual trucks had the 4.3 gears, so unless the donor was manual, you do probably have the right axle. You could check either by taking it apart and counting teeth or by turning the pinion to see how many turns of that equals one turn of the wheels. The limited slip means you won't have to check both sides like you would with an open diff (assuming it's still good). If you turn the pinion four and a half times, and the wheels turn a little less than once, that'll be the HG46 you're after. If it turns less than once, you've got the wrong gears.

 

I have heard of wheel bearings failing a while after a collision. The other evidence you've found does suggest that the truck took a hit. Again, I'm curious what's inside your old axle.

 

Nice trailer!

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I don't think the ratio is printed on the axle, unfortunately. AFAIK only the manual trucks had the 4.3 gears, so unless the donor was manual, you do probably have the right axle. You could check either by taking it apart and counting teeth or by turning the pinion to see how many turns of that equals one turn of the wheels. The limited slip means you won't have to check both sides like you would with an open diff (assuming it's still good). If you turn the pinion four and a half times, and the wheels turn a little less than once, that'll be the HG46 you're after. If it turns less than once, you've got the wrong gears.
 
I have heard of wheel bearings failing a while after a collision. The other evidence you've found does suggest that the truck took a hit. Again, I'm curious what's inside your old axle.
 
Nice trailer!
When I turn the (yolk ) if that's what its called,before I put the axels back in it was smooth as silk, afrer I put axels back in is when I hear the grinding noise. I haven't opened the diff yet, but will in the coming week. Probably bearings I'm guessing. What do you think? I got that axle indtalled from the junkyard all I got left to do is hook up brake lines drive shaft and make sure everything's tight and 2 specs. You know your s&%t man I give you kudos on that. You said from the get-go that you didn't think it was the rear differential. I believe your right.

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Got the rear axel installed and the Pathy is back on the road. It rides smooth. It was a bitch bleeding the brakes, but learned how to do it so I can't complain. This little project cost me $125.00. So not to bad. The Pathy was down for 9 days. Thanks to my local Pull-a-part and NPORA members for helping me along the way especially@Slartibartfast

 

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You could've just swapped the axle shafts over and transferred any brake parts.  The shaft bearings are contained in a bearing cup that removes with the axle shaft.  Unless you wanted the diff and LSD, too...even then, once the axle shafts were pulled, the diff could be swapped.

 

Anyway, glad it's resolved for you. 

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I'm getting some vibration around 60mph. I can feel it through the floorboard and steering. I'm assuming I need to check my driveshaft and make sure the Ujoints are tight. I remember reading something on npora about having your drive shaft balanced?How often does that have to happen? I also need to get my tires balanced. What all can cause a vibration like the one I'm describing?

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Driveshafts shouldn't go out of balance on their own, but IIRC a few people on here have had issues after replacing U-joints and had to mess around to get them centered properly or something. Tire balance could also be an issue, but I'd check your recent work first.

 

Is this related to the front driveshaft play you were looking at earlier or is this new?

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If you’re feeling it in the steering wheel, it’s probably an issue up front. If it was any sort of wobble or vibration, I’d say rear driveshaft or trailing arms. When you torqued all the trailing arm bolts, was the truck on the ground?

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