Jump to content

Rear control trailing arm replacement instructions


DonutHands
 Share

Recommended Posts

Found a couple videos for the upper and lowers. Looks pretty straight forward aside from running into seized bolts of course.

So my question is, can the uppers and lowers be done on the ground with wheels on? 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The likelihood of needing to cut out the lower bolts is VERY high. Even my truck, which only has 106K & spent most of its life garaged, possibly no salt ever & a third of its life in the desert, needed to have the lower bolts cut out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can replace the arms with the wheels on the ground, but it's pretty tight under there and it'll be hard work. No matter how you choose to do it, replace ONE link at a time. You will likely need a ratchet strap to help move the axle to line up the bolt holes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just reiterating what was already said. I would definitely get you a ratchet strap. It will help pull the rear end to your control arm or control arm to the body. The bolts are a booger unless you get lucky. I would Jack it up and remove your wheels. Getem outta the way. 17mm wrench/socket 19 Wrench/Socket, breaker bar and Impact if available. 10mm for the cover over the control arm where it connects to the body. Also use the FSM manuals available online just search for your year R50 and go to the RA section. Make sure and torque to specs. NISSAN recommends you change the nuts. More than likely the bolts will get ruined removing them I know mine did. Good Luck.

 

Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

53a335163cff7b20fc1aa2b0ee1e10c4.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, got it 3/4 of the way done. Unfortunately one of the bolts was replaced with something non oem and is completely frozen in place. Looks like there was some damage to one of the mounts and some big washers were put in as well. Gonna have to take it to a shop for this one.

 

I thought maybe the wobble would be 3/4 of the way gone but it is still pretty significant even with 3 new arms in place. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shop took care of it. Probably took them 10 min, but without a lift and proper leverage that one bolt would not give. 

 

Crazy how the wobble was actually worse with only one bad arm than it was with 4 bad arms.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...