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A/T fluid change questions


Mrelcocko
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I've already looked in the FSM about recommend fluids for AT , was wondering if it's ok to go back with a matic D equivalent full synthetic? I haven't changed the transmission fluid in either one of my r50s. Both A/T look dark not burnt and don't smell burnt and my Q reads perfect like it should. My pathy though the reading when at operating temp idling it reads on both sides the entire dipstick as if it's overfilled. What's up with that please if anyone knows? The Pathy actually shifts smoother than the Q. I know by only draining the pan that's right about 4 quarts is that what you guys would do or should I buy 2 filters and drain the entire systems including torque converter by way of cooler lines?

 

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I would just do the drain and fill routine. If it still looks bad, do it again in about a week. That is the safest way. Otherwise talk to a shop about flushing the trans, but there is a chance of a full flush causing a failure in a high mileage neglected trans. 

 

As for the fluid, the dextron fluids are backwards compatible. So any synthetic dextron type fluid will be good. 

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Its confusing as all get out. I've heard that same thing about doing a complete flush of the entire system and it causing problems major problems do you know why that is why it does that I know a lot of miles has something to do with it it might have everything to do with it but I'd like to know

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Basically the flush breaks up the accumulated varnish and debris that helps keep the various seals sealing on the worn parts. The flushing out of that stuff sometimes prevents the seals from doing their job causing internal pressure leaks. That tends to erode more from the seals. Then the various pistons can't apply proper pressure to the bands allowing slippage. Once that starts, the trans eats itself. 

 

That's why I warn customers that have neglected engines and cooling systems that problems are likely after a flush or major servicing. Oil leaks are common after a neglected engine gets cleaned out and cooling systems are a nightmare after major work. 

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Basically the flush breaks up the accumulated varnish and debris that helps keep the various seals sealing on the worn parts. The flushing out of that stuff sometimes prevents the seals from doing their job causing internal pressure leaks. That tends to erode more from the seals. Then the various pistons can't apply proper pressure to the bands allowing slippage. Once that starts, the trans eats itself. 
 
That's why I warn customers that have neglected engines and cooling systems that problems are likely after a flush or major servicing. Oil leaks are common after a neglected engine gets cleaned out and cooling systems are a nightmare after major work. 
So do you think it's a bad thing to change it? I have no idea when it was done last I've had it almost 3 years now and the guy that had it before me had it probably 12 to 13 years

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50 minutes ago, Mrelcocko said:

So do you think it's a bad thing to change it? I have no idea when it was done last I've had it almost 3 years now and the guy that had it before me had it probably 12 to 13 years

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A regular change is no big deal (like drain the pain and fill back up the appropriate level), the issue is a flush which is at a higher pressure and can loosen up that accumulated junk.

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11 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:

 

A regular change is no big deal (like drain the pain and fill back up the appropriate level), the issue is a flush which is at a higher pressure and can loosen up that accumulated junk.

I always do the flush on a vehicle that I didn't buy new.  If what you people say is true, so be it.  I want to know now, not on a 200 mile trip 3 months later if so called sludge is keeping my tranny together.  I have never had a problem with a flush.   All flushes were on vehicles with over 140K, one with about 200K and had burnt fluid, and not one issue. 

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7 hours ago, Riderman said:

I always do the flush on a vehicle that I didn't buy new.  If what you people say is true, so be it.  I want to know now, not on a 200 mile trip 3 months later if so called sludge is keeping my tranny together.  I have never had a problem with a flush.   All flushes were on vehicles with over 140K, one with about 200K and had burnt fluid, and not one issue. 

?

 

I don't think they said it will cause an issue, it was more of a could/might/may/possibly.

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Yep, it is a possibility, not a definite killer. Working in a shop, you quickly learn to CYA. There are a lot of people who will blame you and your work for all the problems their abused and neglected wreck is suffering from. Years back, the shop I was working in had to deal with a customer that had their Astro van in 4 months before for just an oil change. The van was towed in because 4 months and about 6k miles later the left front wheel fell off. Turns out the driver hit a large pothole just right at 60 mph and blew the tire and broke the aluminum wheel. But in their mind, we were the last ones to work on the pos, so it was our fault it broke. I deal with that kind of crap several times each month, not that extreme, but still that kind of stuff. It gets old and expensive if you don't have documentation and warnings up front. 

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I drained the pan and refilled. Fluid was still red in color and didn't smell burnt. Thanks guys for all the info here's my first r50 it was a 5 speed easy changing the trans fluid in her.[mention=39321]mjotrainbrain[/mention] 40b2b331bd8188df2925cdc51d0fb281.jpg

 

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