Cluster voltage regulator and other gripes - help please!

[mike1305]

Just spent a few hours disassembling a dashboard for the first time (fun!) hunting down whatever short circuit is causing my meter fuse to repeatedly blow. Thought I’d check the regulator behind the gauges to rule that out. Two questions:

 

1. did someone replace this already? See photo. Unit looks different than the Bible (solution2.pdf) shows and the wiring is reversed to the board. 
 

pic: https://imgur.com/4zPkiRg

 

2. whoever designed the power connector can die in a fire. After over an hour wrestling with it I just cut the damn wires off. Still can’t get it unseated on my workbench let alone doing origami with my arms trying to get it out in the dash. GRRRRRRRRRR I’m gonna be mad about that for days. Any idea wtf is up with that? Haven’t found a single post anywhere complaining about it. Maybe mine is broken somehow or I’m just a total idiot. 
 

thanks in advance. 

[Mr_Reverse]

I can't say for sure on the regulator since it is not there from 93 on. It does seem to look different though to my hazy memory. 

With the connector plug that won't separate, if it won't separate with the locking tab pressed in, the plug has probably melted a little internally welding it together. I have experienced that where the connectors are not tight causing higher resistance. That leads to hotspots in the plug, leading to melting the plastic together. 

 

Then there are idiots like some engineers at GM a while back that decided the best way to seal the PRNDL switch connector on the truck transmission and a few others under there was to hot glue the connectors together. Broke a couple until I found the TSB saying to use a heat gun on it until it is just about to melt the housing to get it to unplug. Apparently dielectric grease in the plug was too simple a solution. 

[Slartibartfast]

Usually those type of plugs come apart without too much screwing around. Try jamming a small screwdriver between the tab and the other half of the plug and pushing down on the plastic connecting the tab to the catch. That should release the catch and give you some leverage to pry the male end out if it's stuck for some other reason. I'd be surprised if the dash drew enough current to melt stuff, but it might if it's popping fuses.

The color coding on the wires matches the PDF as far as I can tell, and the neat ends on the wires make me think it's either original or a very well-done repair part rather than a home hackjob. Looks like the regulator in yours is mounted upside down vs the one in the PDF due to the construction of the heat sink, which would explain the blue and yellow wires appearing reversed. If you're not sure, power it up and check for 12v at one wire and 8v at the other. While the dash is out, you could try replacing the fuse and turning the key on to see if it pops again. If it does, you know the problem is elsewhere.

 

59 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Then there are idiots like some engineers at GM a while back that decided the best way to seal the PRNDL switch connector on the truck transmission and a few others under there was to hot glue the connectors together. Broke a couple until I found the TSB saying to use a heat gun on it until it is just about to melt the housing to get it to unplug. Apparently dielectric grease in the plug was too simple a solution. 

Maybe that's what that crap was! I helped a friend swap the trans in his S10 this summer and we couldn't figure out why one of the plugs wouldn't let go, or what the brown crap inside was when it finally did. Sounds about right for the engineers who managed to design a truck that leaks ATF into the ashtray.

[Mr_Reverse]

Well, we all know GM has a couple of definitions. Great mistake and government motors kinda fits...

[Slartibartfast]

I like Great Mistake, hadn't heard that one. We're pretty sure the "LS" trim badge is short for "Leaking Something."

[mike1305]

For posterity, the regulator was most certainly replaced and in working order. The short on the circuit is related to my most recent post, oh joy.

 

I also gave up on getting the damn connector out and cut the wires (whoops). Turns out it was impossible anyway since it needed to be pressed down from the rear with a flathead, which I didn't have room to do since the power wires had no slack. Got it out, added some "extensions" to the 12V and ground wires in case I need to get it out again, and had another whiskey.