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Death Wobble repair kit, does this cover it?


DonutHands
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Pretty significant wobble going on, have no idea what is the actual cause but would the following take care of it? 

Do these kits have too much, would I be wasting my time replacing some of these?

Is this shop/brand any good? 

https://www.1aauto.com/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-steering-and-suspension-kit-10-piece-set-trq-psa58677/i/1asfk00515?f=560399&y=1997

https://www.1aauto.com/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-suspension-kit-6-piece-set/i/1asfk05192?f=1128878&y=1997

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I contemplated just replacing with poly bushings, but stuff is rusty and the time to burn and chisel out the existing stuff sounds like a bad use of my time.

 

Also, I would assume any common problem bolts will be actual problems for me. Is there a good place to pickup pre assembled bolt kits?

 

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The 6 piece kit is going to be the winner here. 

 

IIRC, the “Death Wobble” is usually cause by bad bushings within the trailing arms. Was able to fix mine on my old truck by just replacing the upper, but both should be done. Poly bushings are great and all, but if you don’t think it’s worth your time and you see some rusty bits, probably better off just replacing the parts. 

 

4x4parts.com has a bolt kit for $47 for the rear trailing arms. The OEM ones can be a real pain so it’s definitely a good idea to have em. 

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On 9/6/2019 at 10:18 PM, herotrooper said:

The 6 piece kit is going to be the winner here. 

 

IIRC, the “Death Wobble” is usually cause by bad bushings within the trailing arms. Was able to fix mine on my old truck by just replacing the upper, but both should be done. Poly bushings are great and all, but if you don’t think it’s worth your time and you see some rusty bits, probably better off just replacing the parts. 

 

4x4parts.com has a bolt kit for $47 for the rear trailing arms. The OEM ones can be a real pain so it’s definitely a good idea to have em. 

 

I second that...at least one of my OEM bolts was damaged when removing them, so ordering the new bolts is a good idea. Burns to pay that shipping charge on them, though!  

 

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When I was at the dealership, we replaced the bolts with the rear links because we could rely on at least one being siezed in the bushing and requiring cutting out, do new bolts were just part of the cost of replacing the links. 

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Nope. Got all the same length. Found a post stating where I should cut off the break away ends before installing in a couples places. 

 

Figured this would be fine seeing that 4x4 parts only ships one size as well. 

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Nope. Got all the same length. Found a post stating where I should cut off the break away ends before installing in a couples places. 
 
Figured this would be fine seeing that 4x4 parts only ships one size as well. 

dbef8955037fdbb6206220279afeb5b4.jpg



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3 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

For future reference, 50 bucks for 8 bolts is too much. A local nut and bolt supply house would have the exact same thing (minus the external torx) for a quarter of that and 12.9 black oxide socket cap bolts with nuts and washers for even less.

 

I agree that $50 is too much, but you won't find anything to match OE easily.  Believe me, I've looked.

 

The OE bolts are flanged M14 x 1.5 x 80mm (not including those nubs at the end), and the nuts are PTLN flanges.  You won't find flange bolts like that, unless you want to pay >$20/ea for some titanium ones.  You can look for M14 x 2.0 and 9/16"-18 x 3.25" sizes, but you won't find them in comparable quality to OEM.  Either the flange won't be available (not even sure it exists for 9/16"-18), it won't be zinc plated (plain or black-oxidized hardly offer much corrosion resistance), or the length (especially 3.25") will be tough to find.  You can find hex bolt options no problem, if you're willing to change to flat washers.

 

But look, forget all that.  The FSM doesn't spec replacing the bolts...it only specs replacing the nuts.  If anything, buy a couple or more of the short bolts (54368-0W02A) depending on how gnarly yours look and 8 of the PTLN nuts (08918-6441A).  That way you follow spec, and have some bolts handy should you have to destroy them out (it happens when you round a nut) or the threads get boogered.  Short bolts are $2/ea and nuts $1/ea from nissanpartsdeal.com or courtesyparts.com (these are actual Nissan dealerships; use "nis10" at Courtesy for a discount).  The long bolts (55080-0W00B) are what drive the cost up, at $6/ea, and they have those stupid shear-offs that prevent fitment in some places...avoid them.

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I can order flanged JIS stuff at my local bolt house. They service a big Toyota plant and a huge Kubota plant so it very well might be a special situation. I’m sure anyone can order flanged JIS nuts and bolts but maybe it’d have to be in larger quantities?

 

Most JIS stuff is 10.9 and everything we use at my job is 12.9 so I usually use what we have and call it a kaizen hah!

 

I used high strength M14 zinc plated threaded rod and welded a nut and washer to the one side. I also have a habit of completely coating anything I touch with copper anti-seize.

 

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12 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

 I also have a habit of completely coating anything I touch with copper anti-seize.

 

Essential for these rigs. Im on the same page and every time I service mine Im so glad I've done it.

 

Back on topic, the bolts on the rear trailing arms, especially the lower units on the axle side, will almost always be rust welded to the sleeve in the bushing and require a lot of work to get out (like cutting the bolt and/or bushing off entirely.

 

When putting everything back together I reccomend liberally coating not only the threads but the entire bolt shoulder. This is usually what causes problems and is the area that sees the most abuse and wear,  which is what causes the rust. 

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@R50JR

well, should have looked closer at the lengths they show. anyways, will be just cutting of the ends of the longer ones.

 

@hawairish 

From what I have found, the longer bolt is actually part 54368-0W02A, and is the cheaper one at $2.50 each. I guess I will know for sure in a couple days when they get here.

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9 hours ago, DonutHands said:

@hawairish 

From what I have found, the longer bolt is actually part 54368-0W02A, and is the cheaper one at $2.50 each. I guess I will know for sure in a couple days when they get here.

 

Hmm, yeah keep me posted.  I think at some point long ago I took pictures of the bolts on the p/n labels and always wondered if I had transposed them.  Either way, get whatever's cheaper.  Not all the long bolts need to be cut, just where they interfere with something, like the sway bar links.

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