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Ticking when oil 1 qt low


colinnwn
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You should just set your mind on a 2004 manual trans R50 and be done with it. I think it’d be worth flying out for if it’s low mileage and a good deal. That’ll be my next vehicle unless I can afford a 96’ land cruiser by then.

 

I should’ve updated this thread instead of the other one...

 

I put Walmart synthetic 10w30 in mine last OCI and it sounded like I poured a handful of nuts and bolts. Horrible horrible noises coming from every perceivable direction, top end— bottom end, pinging— knocking!!! Something is going on with mine so don’t stop experimenting but do be careful.

 

Edit: btw it was dino Delo 400 15w40 that I used to run in my Frontier

 

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That's actually exactly what I want, a 2004 manual. But I only found one within 500 miles and it was $7k.

Also my wife has convinced me to get an automatic so she can help drive if we take some really long trips with our camper. I'm sad about that, but won't dread the idea of a 900 mile trip anymore.

I'll keep this thread updated on the oil experiments.

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Well apparently the later RE4 transmissions were updated and hold up better than the priors so you’ll be good either way

 

I’d pay $7k for a 500 mile 04’ Pathy

 

Edit: read that wrong. I’d pay $7k for a sub 75k mile 04’ Pathy IF it’s in great condition.

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The 2nd half of the bottle helped some, it's a little less noisy and can barely hear it under light deceleration. But it's still plenty loud and annoying under moderate deceleration for a half second.

So this weekend definitely trying the 10w30. If I knew how loud it was going to get, I would have bought the 15w40.

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You know, with the lifter noise I experience regularly, I have never heard it flare up during deceleration.

When I hear valve train noise listed by loudness:
>Cold start up (5-15 seconds)
>Hot start up (3-5 seconds)
>Cold idle (rhythmic cycling fading in and out every 5-10 seconds)
>Hot idle (past 3000 miles on OCI— ever present with one loud tap that’s louder than the orchestra of others)
>Cold low RPM low load acceleration (rhythmic— harder to hear over sound of combustion)
>Normal driving 500-1500 miles in to OCI (ever present but not very noticeable— if I asked someone if they could hear a tapping noise they’d probably say “it just sounds like an engine” but I can hear it because I know it’s the same sound that is heard later on into the OCI)

Letting off the gas and getting an immediate clatter sounds a lot like loose heat shielding! Coincidentally I have a section of exhaust on the passenger side that will make a loud noise and it’s only during certain 2-3 gear shifts.

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I'm getting it at

*Cold start up 3 secs
*Hot start up 1sec
*Low rpm high load like going up a hill from a stop with my trailer
*Deceleration events, including all shifts, in a manual with strong engine braking
*And as of tonight on the ride home I can occasionally hear it at low rpm moderate cruising speed

The deceleration I don't think can be anything loose. It is extremely regular and sharp, in time with the rpm, about 10 beats, and sharply stops.

It all sounds exactly like when I was in high school, and had a Scout that was leaking 2 quarts a week, and I accidentally ran it out of oil on the highway.

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267k miles

It's hard to tell with YouTube quality. I don't think it will do it parked revving, but I'll try that tomorrow.

Mine I think sounds sharper, almost like ball peen hammer, or maybe predetonation. That one almost sounds like a more flimsy rattle. I'd probably suspect loose exhaust manifold hearing it.

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I think the Ole girl finally gave out for good unless she gets a new heart.

I did a 30 mile round trip on the highway, staying below 65 mph and in the right lane.

The clattering got to where it only stopped when accelerating. The temp creeped up to 215. I had to turn the AC off and the heat on full, to keep the temp below 205. It usually runs 185. As I turned in the driveway the low oil pressure light started flickering.

I'll find the right forum to post it, but if anyone wants her to fix or part, I'm sure I'll be selling her. We are in Dallas TX.

I'm getting a 2006 Acura MDX with 126k miles. A friend has one in great shape he will sell me for cheap. Not exactly what I wanted, but it still looks like a nice SUV. Hopefully I'll eventually have an R51 or R50 Pathfinder again.

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Sorry to hear that man. I sure hope my suggestion to add “Oil Stabilizer” didn’t have a hand in the demise of your engine.

If it were me, I’d change the oil and send a sample of the oil that comes out to Blackstone lab. It’s $15 I think, and you’ll get a report that will detail the amount of metallic materials suspended in the oil. If there is a lot of bearing material then you can be confident that the engine is toast. The report will tell you what the likely source of each contaminate is.

Again, if my suggestion to add the crap helped kill your engine then I am super regretful and I’ll never suggest it again...

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I might try that from morbid curiosity.

But I don't think in any way your suggestion killed my engine. You suggested a product designed to go in engine oil, in the amount specified in the instructions.

If anything I'd blame Walmart, but I don't. And even then I'd have no way to prove that was the cause, and it had a known prior related problem.

Thanks

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I have a manual transmission. Supposedly the FSM shows the manuals don't have the power valve system, and one person on here disassembled their manual transmission Pathy to verify.

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It was clattering at the same time, but not synchronously with the light. It was fluttering intermittently, and irregularly, like when your voltage regulator is dying.

 

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I have a manual transmission. Supposedly the FSM shows the manuals don't have the power valve system, and one person on here disassembled their manual transmission Pathy to verify.

Correct - I looked but couldn’t find your transmission
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You should upload a video on YouTube of the current condition, both idling and driving around a bit. First change the oil of course.

Have someone hold the phone near the engine bay with the hood up for idling and parked engine revving, then you might try either having someone hold the phone out the window for some slow driving or even find a safe place to sit the phone inside the engine bay and drive around a bit.

I’m just very curious about the oil light all the sudden coming on. Have you seen the oil light intermittently? How about a hot start up, did it ever stay on for longer than is normal and flicker a bit before going out?

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I'll see about doing that, depending on how long the wife tolerates it sitting in front of the house.

For a couple of months I noticed the oil light would flicker quickly a couple of times right after a start, but would fully extinguish within a second of start up.

I know it would happen in my driveway on cold starts. I think I saw it also happen out and about on hot starts.

I never saw it come on other that that.

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Blackstone labs has gone up a bit. It's $28 now. Cost isn't an issue if I get time.

Is it worth the TBN test for amount of active additives left? That another $10.

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I'll see about doing that, depending on how long the wife tolerates it sitting in front of the house.

For a couple of months I noticed the oil light would flicker quickly a couple of times right after a start, but would fully extinguish within a second of start up.

I know it would happen in my driveway on cold starts. I think I saw it also happen out and about on hot starts.

I never saw it come on other that that.

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My 03 light flickers right after start up if I am about a qt low and/or if I am parked on an incline nose up. I guess now that I think of it, I am having symptoms similar to yours.


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