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Axle fell out...


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Eventful weekend with lots of jobs. Finished the passenger front lift, relatively smoothly with only minor problems but got that all sorted out, but the driver was a different story. Upon dropping the front shock as i went to pull it out the entire axle from out from the hub?

 

Has this happened to anyone before? Is it safe to try and reinsert it temporary or should i just go straight to buying a new axle? Rough timing since its a long weekend.

 

Any and all advice appreciated

Axle  1.jpg

Edited by TroyButler
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Maybe the snap-ring never got reinstalled, or wasn’t fully seated?  Might be sitting inside the wheel hub. If missing, might be able to substitute it with another from the hardware store, but note that the snap-rings are specific thicknesses for providing the right amount of play, and there were part numbers for each thickness...you may need to order the replacement from Nissan. 

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I would advise replacing the whole cv axle. The connecting shaft should be held in the outer joint with a clip or other type of retainer and should be well seated and sealed by the cv boot. The clip seems to have failed and allowed the shaft to pull away from the cv joint itself.

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9 hours ago, hawairish said:

Maybe the snap-ring never got reinstalled, or wasn’t fully seated?  Might be sitting inside the wheel hub. If missing, might be able to substitute it with another from the hardware store, but note that the snap-rings are specific thicknesses for providing the right amount of play, and there were part numbers for each thickness...you may need to order the replacement from Nissan. 

Just thew outer axle shaft seal?

8 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:

Als, your brake line has way too much tension on it. Remove the caliper or reposition the hub so that it’s not as stretched.

I immediately jacked the hub up after, just wanted the reference image

8 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:

I would advise replacing the whole cv axle. The connecting shaft should be held in the outer joint with a clip or other type of retainer and should be well seated and sealed by the cv boot. The clip seems to have failed and allowed the shaft to pull away from the cv joint itself.

Any recommendations? are the $60 ones on rockauto okay?

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8 hours ago, TroyButler said:

Just thew outer axle shaft seal?

I immediately jacked the hub up after, just wanted the reference image

Any recommendations? are the $60 ones on rockauto okay?

yes those are fine

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If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

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If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Good call.


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2 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Will do, i believe i got it all assembled last night with the old axle in the way it was. Doing a bolt check tonight then putting the wheels back on and trying to drive Just not going to be using 4 wheel. I will definitely buy a new one because this ones either gone or failed. The ideal scenario is its fine till atleast midaugust when i have time to replace the axle fully.

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13 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Also, looking at rockauto if i wanted to try and repair this, what should i buy?

 

a new boot and just the axle seal?

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28 minutes ago, TroyButler said:

Also, looking at rockauto if i wanted to try and repair this, what should i buy?

 

a new boot and just the axle seal?

Personally, I would just buy a whole axle. No point in dealing with all the grease and clamping the boot on when axles can be had for about $50.

 

11 hours ago, TroyButler said:

Will do, i believe i got it all assembled last night with the old axle in the way it was. Doing a bolt check tonight then putting the wheels back on and trying to drive Just not going to be using 4 wheel. I will definitely buy a new one because this ones either gone or failed. The ideal scenario is its fine till atleast midaugust when i have time to replace the axle fully.

If you did not reassemble the axle correctly with the snap ring in place to hold the rollers it can come apart while driving and spinning. Unless of course if you have manual hubs.

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14 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Some do, some don't depends on the brand you buy. BUT that would be the outer snap ring for the hub.
In the case of the inner snap ring for the middle shaft into the CV it should always be there, they are assembled that way and it keeps the center shaft from popping out of the cage(and boot.) 

11 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

Personally, I would just buy a whole axle. No point in dealing with all the grease and clamping the boot on when axles can be had for about $50.

 

If you did not reassemble the axle correctly with the snap ring in place to hold the rollers it can come apart while driving and spinning. Unless of course if you have manual hubs.

I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's 
Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.

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I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's 

Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.

I’m sure a reman axle is strong enough for most of us.

 

 

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I love my O'Reilly lifetime warranty new axles (not remanufactured from old cores). They come fully greased and assembled with the outersnap ring.

 

Before I installed my SFD, I was running 2" spacers and went through 3 CV axles for the price of 1 thanks to the warranty.

 

Two of them due to CV bind and 1 to a ripped boot. They have worked great since fixing the suspension geometry and have seen lots of HD abuse with my 6" setup, a combination of towing and off road use. The lifetime warranty guarantees the axle for as long as you own the vehicle and its as simple as bringing in the old unit and swapping for the replacement.  No hassle, no fuss and no shipping. The lifetime warranty from local parts stores on high wear parts is a great investment in my opinion.  

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7 hours ago, Astrorami said:

Personally, I would just buy a whole axle. No point in dealing with all the grease and clamping the boot on when axles can be had for about $50.

 

If you did not reassemble the axle correctly with the snap ring in place to hold the rollers it can come apart while driving and spinning. Unless of course if you have manual hubs.

It partially comes down to laziness. The Axle is fully attached to the trans and is only about an inch out from the hub. The splines still look all good i think it was just the snap ring or the lack of it. 

7 hours ago, MY1PATH said:

Some do, some don't depends on the brand you buy. BUT that would be the outer snap ring for the hub.
In the case of the inner snap ring for the middle shaft into the CV it should always be there, they are assembled that way and it keeps the center shaft from popping out of the cage(and boot.) 

I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's 
Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.

My axle seems to be fine, i think the snap ring was the culprit (to which i also don’t see the snap ring online?). My problem is my cv partially in the hub but needs to move another inch or less to be fully seated in. Any advice? I tried taking off the tie rod end but it would not come out, and hammering it may have slightly damaged a thread. 

 

If i could just reboot it, grease it, and move it the 1 inch it needs id be all set

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On 6/30/2019 at 9:32 PM, TroyButler said:

 

Axle  1.jpg

 

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub,  remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart. 

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50 minutes ago, TowndawgR50 said:

 

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub,  remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart. 

Thank you very much.

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10 hours ago, TroyButler said:

It partially comes down to laziness. The Axle is fully attached to the trans and is only about an inch out from the hub. The splines still look all good i think it was just the snap ring or the lack of it. 

My axle seems to be fine, i think the snap ring was the culprit (to which i also don’t see the snap ring online?). My problem is my cv partially in the hub but needs to move another inch or less to be fully seated in. Any advice? I tried taking off the tie rod end but it would not come out, and hammering it may have slightly damaged a thread. 

 

If i could just reboot it, grease it, and move it the 1 inch it needs id be all set

The splines are usually a pretty snug fit to that inner spider(the part it came out of) you may have to take the whole CV out to seat it.
Popping the inner CV cover out  gives you access to strike vertically on the center shaft to drive it back into the outer CV. If you get a new snap ring your first strike has to be solid with the joint straight or the snap ring will not compress enough to get inside the splines.

 

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7 minutes ago, MY1PATH said:

The splines are usually a pretty snug fit to that inner spider(the part it came out of) you may have to take the whole CV out to seat it.
Popping the inner CV cover out  gives you access to strike vertically on the center shaft to drive it back into the outer CV. If you get a new snap ring your first strike has to be solid with the joint straight or the snap ring will not compress enough to get inside the splines.

 

Alright, maybe back to the idea of replacing the entire axle.  I was looking at the infiniti parts catalog and there 7 different thicknesses of snap rings? If i type in vin will it show what i need or will i have to measure what i pull out with a caliper/micrometer to know what to get?

 

also is this the basic outline of what to do with the auto-hubs?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35721-cv-boot-replacement-v-axle-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=669202

 

edit: also looking at new axles on rock auto, one says does not include abs ring? Do i need to buy one that does?

Edited by TroyButler
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Alright, maybe back to the idea of replacing the entire axle.  I was looking at the infiniti parts catalog and there 7 different thicknesses of snap rings? If i type in vin will it show what i need or will i have to measure what i pull out with a caliper/micrometer to know what to get?
 
also is this the basic outline of what to do with the auto-hubs?
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35721-cv-boot-replacement-v-axle-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=669202
 
edit: also looking at new axles on rock auto, one says does not include abs ring? Do i need to buy one that does?

You have previously been told by probably the most studied member on this forum that there are various snap ring thicknesses for the axle. You asking the question about them shows your complete disregard and ignornace. Rather than ask redundant questions do a little bit of work yourself if you really are unsure. Many members here are more than willing to help, but when you are back and forth on something so simple you are just wasting their time. If you truly do not know, use google to search for the FSM and do some homework.


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6 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:

 

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub,  remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart. 

 

Good point/observation, man.  I had only taken a quick glance and thought the outer joint had pulled from the hub. It’s the center shaft that pulled from the hub.

 

3 hours ago, TroyButler said:

Alright, maybe back to the idea of replacing the entire axle.  I was looking at the infiniti parts catalog and there 7 different thicknesses of snap rings? If i type in vin will it show what i need or will i have to measure what i pull out with a caliper/micrometer to know what to get?

 

also is this the basic outline of what to do with the auto-hubs?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35721-cv-boot-replacement-v-axle-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=669202

 

edit: also looking at new axles on rock auto, one says does not include abs ring? Do i need to buy one that does?

 

I’m not sure if the snap ring thicknesses apply here since it’s the center shaft and not the outer joint shaft that goes into the hub (I didn’t look closely enough at the pic).  The outer splined part (visible inside the wheel hub) is what uses snap rings of adjustable thicknesses. I don’t think the inner part that is exposed uses different thicknesses, but am not sure. But, if you can’t get the shaft in, it may be due to the snap-ring still being in there, or some other obstruction that warrants its disassembly and repair/replacement. 

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10 hours ago, Astrorami said:


You have previously been told by probably the most studied member on this forum that there are various snap ring thicknesses for the axle. You asking the question about them shows your complete disregard and ignornace. Rather than ask redundant questions do a little bit of work yourself if you really are unsure. Many members here are more than willing to help, but when you are back and forth on something so simple you are just wasting their time. If you truly do not know, use google to search for the FSM and do some homework.


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I was well aware there was various thicknesses that had to be specific vehicle. All he said was order from nissan, not, how to know before disassembly which to order. And again i looked at the FSM, doesn’t specifice which thickness is needed that i saw. I assumed the best way to know is to measure after dissassembly but before that i am unsure. Sorry if that troubles you

 

also seeing as mine wasn’t installed correctly it may not even have the old snap ring in to begin with so besides guess and check i was unsure how to know the specific one to use, unless as i asked it would be tied to the vin.

Edited by TroyButler
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I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2. Sorry to inconvenience everyone, im just not use to the big SUV life. I have a background more with BMW’s and am much more familliar with those (coupes and such).

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With the exception converting to manual hubs, Snap ring thickness has more to do with deviation in parts than it does year/vin. If the snap ring groove location on your new shaft is within 0.005" of your old shaft you will use the same snap ring inside your hub.
Also the hydraulic action of grease and trapped air may mislead you to thinking your snap ring is too thick when your axle isn't fully seated.

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7 hours ago, TroyButler said:

I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2

 

Probably the easiest, hassle free choice. While it may be repairable a new axle assembly will pop in fairly easily and quickly solving your problem all together. Afterwards by all means take apart the damaged axle and diagnose the problem, fix and keep it as a spare since both driver and passenger sides use the same part. Ive never seen an axle cleanly come apart at the joint like that. They tend to fail at the joint itself and have significant damage as a result so it would be beneficial for everyone to see what happened here. 

 

P6WOuQs.jpg

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