Jump to content

NPORA Staff email addresses have been restored for over two weeks now and most have updated and accessed by individual staff.  If you have tried to contact a staff member by email and they have not responded please make a second attempt using the forums Private Message system. If that is also unsuccessful please reach out to another member of the staff.

Sign in to follow this  
19Pathy94se30

EGR Delete

Recommended Posts

Hello all!! I am a fairly new member but have owned my Pantyfinder for about 10 years now. I have just recently moved to a state that doesn’t require smog. So upon arrival to said state I went ahead and deleted the EGR, added a set of Doug Thorly headers and a cone air filter. Upon doing the EGR delete now I have a check engine light because of it but have gained a considerable amount of hp back and fuel economy has gone up. I was wondering if anyone else has done the same and if there is a way to trick the truck and making the check engine light go off instead of sending the ecu out to have it reprogrammed? I’ll post pictures soon. Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did it on a 92 without problem. Did you plug the vacuum lines that ran to the EGR?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I did it on a 92 without problem. Did you plug the vacuum lines that ran to the EGR?

I’m sure I did. I will go through them again tho. There was also a 2 wire plug that had plugged into the unit as well. Did you just leave that hanging or did you jump the two?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have a California-emissions truck. What I'd do is look for an ECU from a 90-95 donor with the same transmission and federal emissions.

Those two wires on the EGR valve are for the EGR temp sensor (only found on California models only AFAIK), and if that's open or shorted, the computer will throw a code 35 (so no, jumping those won't help). You may be able to fool the computer with a resistor (the manual says the sensor should read about 85k ohms at 212°F), but I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU still threw code 32 (EGR function) afterwards. I'm not sure what all goes into setting code 32. The manual says to check the EGRC solenoid, vac lines, and the valve itself, so my best guess is that the ECU looks for temperature increase/decrease when the valve is opened/closed. Neither of mine have/had EGR temp sensors, so I doubt either would notice the absence of the EGR valve. I haven't done an EGR delete, though, so I can't say firsthand what works.

How carbon-choked was the EGR valve when you removed it? Sounds like it might've been stuck open.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I had a Federal vehicle. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sounds like you have a California-emissions truck. What I'd do is look for an ECU from a 90-95 donor with the same transmission and federal emissions.

Those two wires on the EGR valve are for the EGR temp sensor (only found on California models only AFAIK), and if that's open or shorted, the computer will throw a code 35 (so no, jumping those won't help). You may be able to fool the computer with a resistor (the manual says the sensor should read about 85k ohms at 212°F), but I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU still threw code 32 (EGR function) afterwards. I'm not sure what all goes into setting code 32. The manual says to check the EGRC solenoid, vac lines, and the valve itself, so my best guess is that the ECU looks for temperature increase/decrease when the valve is opened/closed. Neither of mine have/had EGR temp sensors, so I doubt either would notice the absence of the EGR valve. I haven't done an EGR delete, though, so I can't say firsthand what works.

How carbon-choked was the EGR valve when you removed it? Sounds like it might've been stuck open.

Thank you for this comment. It was fairly choked up that was the main reason why I went and did the delete in the first place and yes unfortunately this is a California rig. I think I may follow your advice and and go off and get me a federal ECU off of a washington rig. As for that plug, I wonder if there is a way to completely remove it from the harness or should I leave it there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably more trouble than it's worth to take the harness apart and remove it entirely. I'd just push the wiring back against the harness it comes out of and wrap it with electrical tape, if you can access that harness without major surgery. Otherwise, zip-tie it to something else so it doesn't flop around. Insulate the ends if they're cut just so they can't cause new/interesting issues down the line. Out of sight, out of mind, but still there if for some reason you end up needing it again, and one less thing to check if you have electrical issues in the future.

 

And yeah, mine was nasty too. I knocked out most of the crusties and put it back on. EGR's not a bad idea on paper but it's no surprise that hot combustion byproducts leave deposits on (comparatively) cold surfaces and cause problems.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Probably more trouble than it's worth to take the harness apart and remove it entirely. I'd just push the wiring back against the harness it comes out of and wrap it with electrical tape, if you can access that harness without major surgery. Otherwise, zip-tie it to something else so it doesn't flop around. Insulate the ends if they're cut just so they can't cause new/interesting issues down the line. Out of sight, out of mind, but still there if for some reason you end up needing it again, and one less thing to check if you have electrical issues in the future.
 
And yeah, mine was nasty too. I knocked out most of the crusties and put it back on. EGR's not a bad idea on paper but it's no surprise that hot combustion byproducts leave deposits on (comparatively) cold surfaces and cause problems.

Thank you very much sir


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...