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Need some alignment help here please


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I have a set of superlift control arms (that or rough country cant remember but whatever they are the same) and no matter who it's taken to I cant seem to get this truck aligned ever again now. The problem being there is too much caster where the top of the tire sticks outward (think reverse drift cars you see riding around on streets). I know the frame isnt bent because before having these on it was aligned perfectly and the truck just sat in a driveway for an engine. Anyone know what I might be able to try or recommend the dude that is trying to align it now to try? Or hell what did I do wrong I dont even know anymore. Just need this thing aligned for the rest of the year and afterwards I'm fast tracking SAS, tired of dealing with all the bs.

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I'm no expert on alignment but I believe it is positive camber i.e shims would make it worse. It's just kinda odd to me that only one side is 9ff while the other is straight when I have them sitting level (measuring from ground to bottom steering bracket and lca spindle bolt). It's almost like I have to have the truck sitting uneven with drivers side higher so I get negative camber on passenger side and am able to shim it out. That just seems wrong to me however.

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You remove shims if the camber's too positive, add them if it's too negative. If you lift the front end with the stock UCAs (T-bar crank only), you end up needing a fat stack of shims to get rid of the negative camber. My understanding of the lift arms is that they're a little longer than the stock arms to reduce the number of shims required. If your truck isn't lifted (or isn't lifted much) and you've got lift arms on it, you may need to lift the front end before it'll align. Mine is pretty near stock ride height, with stock arms, and it didn't take many shims to align. I'd have to check but if I remember correctly one side's got no shims at all. If I fitted longer UCAs, it would not align unless I cranked the ride height up to what the lift UCAs were designed to work with.

 

If you're running a 3" lift and no shims behind the driver's UCA spindle, and it's still got positive camber, I'd measure the arms against each other (from the ball joint to each of the bolts going into the frame) to see if one was built wrong.

And no, you don't adjust one torsion bar to change camber. That'll just make it crooked. Adjust both bars to get the height where you want it, get it level, test drive and readjust as needed because they settle, then adjust your camber.

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